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Old 01-25-2018, 10:29 PM   #46
Obo2
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Plywood isn't really going to work for butcher block.

I've got a couple extra sheets of acx that i will likely make some nightstands or something from. Will probably just paint them.

If you want to stain sand with 220 or so and then use a conditioner and then stain and then poly.
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:27 PM   #47
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Question

Well my drill battery went flat so need to charge overnight.


This whole project is becoming a chore at this point. Laminating sheets of plywood
is for the birds and I'm wishing I never undertook it to start with.

So I am not using the wood I already laminated together due to the bow.
I was going to use the scrap pieces which came off the same 4x8 sheets, but are
all a little shorter than the other lengths by 1/8" however I am finding they are of different widths and lengths for some reason. Not just 1/8" off.

If I put the two 15/32 sheets in center of the 23/32 sheets I cannot get square front or outside (exposed) edges. The 15/32 sheets are slightly shorter and narrower than the 23/32 sheets. Once glue is in place and spread out my window of time (Tightbond III) is
15 minutes and I'm not sure I can get get them aligned in time.

What if I l dispense with the 15/32" sheets altogether and use only the two 23/32" sheets of plywood?

Use blocks to raise this up and then put a skirt of plywood on the front for the vcap to back against?
I don't know if I have enough wood to do this though. And this seems imprecise. Too short and the vcap can break on the bottom from lack of support; too long and the wood shows underneath it.

Seems the whole issue I have is not using CBU hence my thickness problem.
What do others who use vcaps and Ditra do?

*EDIT*
Just realized I missed something in post #20. Not TWO sheets of 15/32 but ONE sheet. So my plywood sandwich such as it was already made
was too thick anyway. So that makes a little easier three sheets instead of four.... *EDIT EDIT*
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:47 AM   #48
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Got it all put together in spite of my reservations.
No bow this time. And level as the cabinet and the foundation is.
That is to say the bubble is centered length and width.

I did not use as much glue as before which I hope does not bite me later
when I cut out the sink opening. Screws every 4" is closer to 5" should make
it solid enough.

I still have some work to do, but it's moving on now...
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Old 01-26-2018, 05:30 PM   #49
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Looking better now...

Glue and screws set. After 6 hrs I took the whole block off the cabinet.
It's still under 4' without a fill at the wall so I needed to fix that.
I glued a 23/32" strip on the edge that will meet the wall and used a 15/32" strip as a filler for the gap (remember this wood was scraps and of slightly different lengths). Not of an much over hang as I would like on the end by the commode, but I can live with 23/32" rather than 1".

My skills with a coping saw got some use after 35 years (had shop class in grade school at 7 yrs old. I made an intricate cut out of an owls ears back then and I remembered more than I thought.) to make the narrow cut in that thin wood and not end up with a bunch of wrecked splintered wood. Some glue and wire brads held that piece in place. Then more glue and 2" screws to hold the 23/32" strip on.

Still minor imperfections on that edge but nothing thinset will not fill.
The surface is now flat within 1/32" ie a hair's gap under the center of the level.
This is good enough; I'm going to put Ditra on this after all.

The two exposed edges are both as flat and square as I could make them.
The wall though... ugh it's wavy.

Now to refasten this to the cabinet.

Then the drill has to charge again...

I never intended to use this one for so much. I bought this $20 drill/driver
for putting in sheet rock screws over my head and this thing has paid for
itself, but it only has a Ni-cad battery. The more I use it the shorter between charges.

Pictures included...

Anything more I need to do before I get on to the Ditra? I have to cut out the sink opening, but
I found this sink DID come with a template. nice of them to make it from something paper-like (tissue paper but ...)
After that I think I'm ready for Ditra.

Have I forgotten anything? The tiles for the wall will have to be back buttered to conform that
wavy-ness. I need to mark for the mirror which was originally above that shadow you can see.
It will be moved up a little and I may have to cut it...or have it cut off some.

*edit*
Got the sink opening cut thanks to my neighbor with a very precise xacto knife and 3.25" rough cut jig saw blade.
Photo added.
*edit edit*
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:49 PM   #50
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OK. With the cutout done.

Do I need to do anything else before I start with the Ditra?

The sink is a self rim top mount type so I will secure it to the top
once the tile is done?
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:52 PM   #51
chuck stevenson
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Looks like a well engineered plywood top.
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:34 PM   #52
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Red face

Yes. It is at that Chuck. Thank you.

I was concerned of the center and how well the tightbond bonded the wood, but the wood
removed from the sink opening could be used as a table it's so well bonded together.
There was no separation in the middle whatsoever so that tells me the edges are likewise
never coming undone.

That said I figured out I have made a kinda funny error that I have to now live with or start over.
It's actually kinda hilarious.

I have dyslexia and I flipped the vcaps which is why I have been saying I needed ~2" thick
base and reason for laminating wood together etc... Along with the Schulter video using
3/4" +5/8" plywood for their cove profile which was how I started to use the vcap wrong.
I'm using these btw: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-...hair+rail+tile
Looks like that can actually go either way.

I don't know if I should laugh or cry actually. The extra labor I performed to make an almost 2" thick base...

I put the long 2-3/16" side down, but realized tonight the SHORT 3/4" side is supposed to cover the base and the long side goes on top. Given how far I'm into this I don't think I can begin again. I mean the vcap seems to have enough of an edge in either direction though not as high in the short side over the counter vs the 'correct' way. Bottom line I don't want to do this wood work again in this bathroom. I do have ~100 sq-ft of counter in the kitchen which I will do correctly.

I have cut the Ditra for the top and edged, but not the sink opening YET.
The sink opening in the Ditra will be cut out I think once the thinset dries so it doesn't shift about while cutting. It tends to want to curl a LOT as it is. Is there any tip for cutting Ditra on the square tiles vs the easy spaces between? I needed 1-3/4" height (that extra labor again! ) and found it was hard to cut outside of 1/2" wide sections. Cutting in between on the squares was a PITA.

I need to watch that Schluter countertop video again.
Their Ditra handbook is totally mum about countertops oddly enough given the video.

Regarding the front edges for the Ditra the Schulter video shows two separate pieces of Ditra one on top one on the front, but it doesn't show how they are waterproofing that front edge.
Should I be using Kerdiband on that front edge too?
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Old 01-27-2018, 04:21 PM   #53
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Bump....

Same question about the kerdiband on front edge. Schluter video does not show them adding any. If they are two separate pieces with a space and not overlapped shouldn't there be some kerdiband on that?
Or KerdiFix, but again the video is mum and seems to show the front edge uncovered except by the Rondec later on. That is not waterproofing though.
Kinda odd.

In any case I'm probably going to add some kerdiband.

Next question is about quantity of water to the thinset (Versabond).
I found notes from 2015 project that says 3.8oz of water for every pound of Versabond.
I forget who told me that amount.

In this case I need more water to get an almost fluid consistency for the Ditra.

Is there any formula for how much extra water? Other than saying it should be "thinner" or "fluid" any tips for getting it right first batch? I am going to begin with about 5 pounds of Versabond for the countertop. That should be (more than) enough for 22"x49" plus the kerdiband on all perimeters back and front.

If I add 1 oz of water for every pound of thinset (25oz for 5#) would that be too much?
Must I just trial and error it?
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Old 01-28-2018, 04:24 PM   #54
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Progress...

Ended up with 22 oz of water to 5lbs of Versabond.

I added 2 oz extra after the initial 5 minute mix, but before letting
it slake 10 minutes.

Seems OK and full coverage at the edges I tested, but I'm kinda concerned about the left side where I cannot see the grey thinset through the orange as I think I should. The edges were fine but it's about 2" from the back and left edge.

Nothing I can do about it now. I pressed it down a few extra times in that area, but did not get anywhere. Time will tell.

If this were my floor I would have made more effort, but I don't think it's an issue.

I added kerdiband on the back wall and ran out of pot life on the thinset so I will do the side edges later. I screwed up the band it's crooked on the side toward the commode.

I noticed it 20 minutes after I finished and dumped the spent thinset so I'm just going to leave it. I did not see any bubbles under it in spite of being crooked though.

I will check for bubbles once all this is dry tomorrow. I still must cut the sink opening.
I used the paper insert from the Ditra to keep the mortar from getting under the sink but luckily very little got through.

Pictures attached.
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Last edited by Tool Guy - Kg; 02-02-2018 at 01:14 AM. Reason: Rotate picture upright. :)
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Old 01-29-2018, 12:30 PM   #55
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Question Kerdiband on front edges or not?

More progress...

Pictures...

Thanks to a neighbor with a very steady hand to cutout the sink opening and I put the piece of kerdiband on side. Damn stuff really wants to curl which makes it 10x harder to place. I made my own inside corner cut which is a #$$# to stay put but did after a fashion. I need to cut a little bit of the band away at the side edge once all is dry.

BUT, I'm out of Kerdiband. Should I kerdiband the front edge and side edge or not? Again Schluter video shows none, but they used their profile edge.
Realistically is water ever going to get in that spot?

I have another roll of Kerdiband but if using it on those two edges is something I don't need to do it I can get onto tiling probably this evening.
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Old 01-29-2018, 09:53 PM   #56
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Got the tile in. I have to drag out my wet saw for the stair rail on the back side by the commode. It's about 2" too long. No other way I have to cut it. No blade for my grinder and that is too messy.

The cuts around the sink were a PITA and I broke 3 even though the nippers were only biting small bits off. I sure hope I've got plenty of room for the sink to overlap.
I *think* I do but if I'm off by a hair it's gonna be ugly.

Speaking of ugly what do you make of the corner trim piece? It did not
meet up in any position well with the field tiles or the rest of the trim and
as such left those big gaps. I am wondering what I'm going to do with that gap.
I bought un-sanded grout because I expected 1/16" grout spaces.

I'm not sure it will even stay forever. Hopefully when grouted it will be solid.
Since I have 6 more pairs of those (for the kitchen) I wonder if this was just my Ditra
making the piece sit too proud or am I going to have this kind of problem every where?

If so I guess I'm going to be relegated to CBU in the kitchen or making my own from
cut stair railing (same tile) which if I do it right I could probably work better than this one.

Tomorrow I will work on that wet saw cut and the backsplash. Then I have to take the vanity mirror to a shop and have 3" cut off of it. Original was 48x40x1/4" and I need it shaved off to 36" high.

A shop 5 minutes away will charge me $10 if I bring it to them which is a super deal.
My neighbor has a van so we can transport it properly.

Then changing the vanity light.

Work, work, work...
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Old 01-29-2018, 09:54 PM   #57
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Exclamation

Any chance one of the mods can re-orient the pictures I posted please?
Not sure why they all posted upside down.
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Old 01-29-2018, 11:33 PM   #58
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The corner will probably look ...ok once it's grouted.

I imagine if you just knocked the sharp corner off of the wood the corner tile trim might sit a little nicer.

That little tiny corner in the back of the sink might give you a gap when you set the sink or it might all be covered.
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Old 01-29-2018, 11:56 PM   #59
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Exclamation

The sink fit just fine. OCD I had to check.

I have non-sanded grout for the 1/16" grout lines.

UGH! It's only for spaces up to 1/8"...

More pics tomorrow.

I'm sore in every back, leg, arm and neck muscle I can name and some I cannot.

Especially my back did not like mixing grout whilst standing bent for 5 minutes.

I think I'm going to have to take a break from this for at least a day.
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:40 PM   #60
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Dry fit the self rimming sink.
Looks good. Some white silicone II and I should be done with that.

Now, I need to get the backsplash done and work on the plumbing.

The plumbing is not standard bathroom 1-1/4" piping, but bigger I think.

I bought the P-trap kit of parts for replacing the trap and the threaded
fitting simply went down on the existing trap threads so it's too big (?).

So I will have to figure out what is what. I wish I knew this when I had the stops replaced I could have also had this part fixed too.
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