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Old 02-14-2018, 10:30 PM   #1
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Hall Bath Remodel: Many Questions

Hi, I am currently remodeling a hall bathroom with a tub. I currently have it down to the studs and I need to move the tub drain and install the tub.

The back wall for the long backside of the tub needs to have studs put in, the current ones are spaced over 20" apart and I'd like to put them at 16" on center to use kerdi 1/2" board.

My first questions of many to come is if the studs on the shower valve side are somewhat flat and plumb, how do I square the back wall to the wall where the shower valve is? And then how do I square and plumb the wall opposite the wall with the shower valve?

This is a pic on my 4 foot level on one of the studs on the wall with the shower valve, is this plumb enough or do I need to work on this one too? What is the max the studs can be out of plumb before they start causing issues when it's time to tile?

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-15-2018, 02:22 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum, jmvar.

Use a carpenter’s square or use the 3’-4’-5’ geometry method to pencil some layout lines on the floor to mark the “bottom plate”.

The tiles don’t care about plumb. They only care about flat. That being said, plumb walls are nice, but it’s not new construction where you have the freedom to build what you want. You may be restricted in plumbing up certain walls.

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Old 02-15-2018, 08:11 AM   #3
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Great thanks for the advice, I will focus more on flat than plumb.

For getting the walls somewhat square, is there a rule of thumb as to how out of square is acceptable? I have a feeling I will chase my tail here if I don't have a "good enough" to go by.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:44 AM   #4
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To clarify, please tell us your specific concerns about things being square. Walls perpendicular and parallel to each other? Walls square to floor (plumb)? Walls square to ceiling?

In an existing structure much of this is predefined and one has to play the hand given. Even in new structures the tolerance for plumb, level, square aren't anywhere near what they'd be for cabinetry or even finish carpentry.

If I can extrapolate from your questions, it's possible we are talking about the same things by different names. As bubba pointed out, flat and in plane are usually more important than square and level just because some of that is not going to be adjustable.
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Old 02-16-2018, 12:43 PM   #5
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Carbidetooth, once I read your question I realized how vague my question is. Thanks for bringing that up and helping me realize that.

I am talking about getting the walls in the shower area square to each other. I have read that it makes it easier when you go to tile to get them as flat, square and plumb as possible to each other so that the tiles in the corners line up better (corner of walls).
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:07 PM   #6
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I'm a DIY'er and this is what I did. May not be the way the pro's do it, but it worked for me and that's all that mattered. My walls and tile work came out pretty good. It's all about layout and taking your time to get things right the first time.

I made a large "framing square" about 48" long. I started by making my first wall plumb and "flat" by sistering all the studs. (I used a 6' level and my bubble looked about the same as your image). I then used the square to make my 2nd wall 90 degrees to my first by sistering the studs. Then, squared my 3rd wall to my second. Made sure my first wall and third wall were parallel. My 3rd wall was much longer then the 48" square, but at that point, I just used a couple straight edges to complete the wall.

I double checked using the 3,4,5 rule as stated above. Having a physical large square really helped me clamps the studs in place and then I could double check with a tape measure. Had all three walls true in a couple hours.

I would of made my square larger, but my shortest wall drove the size.

Hope this helps, good luck!
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Old 02-20-2018, 08:47 PM   #7
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Beveled subway tile on bathroom wall

We are in the process of picking out tile for out bathroom remodel. We really like the look of beveled subway tile but I am realizing that it complicates a couple of details.

One question we have is will putting beveled tile on the wall leave small gaps between the vanity top and the tile where the profile of the tile gets thinner? If so, is that easily addressed with caulk or will that not look right?

I have found several pictures of beveled tile behind a sink or vanity but no close ups.

Does anyone have experience with this?

Here are some random pics from google images search.
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:42 PM   #8
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To get the corners to match tile thickness, you'll need to wrap the corners and miter both tiles. This makes extra work but gives a nice clean look.

Grouting is a first class PITA.

Have you run this idea past the maintenance crew?

Careful planning can avoid horizontally cut tiles.

Niches can be problematic unless you use marble or such for the jambs.

The photos were likely photo shopped as they usually are whole tiles all around.

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Old 02-21-2018, 03:33 AM   #9
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Grouting was a lot of work when I installed this kind of tile. It is harder for a lot of others also?
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:14 AM   #10
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Striking the grout joints with a Dowell rod with help. The biggest problem I see are ugly inside corners. Mitre or coped corners look the best.
Jack of most trades, master of none...
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:18 PM   #11
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If you're running the beveled subway tile across the top of the vanity then the bevel and the bottom shouldn't be a problem. Silicone caulk will seal that edge.
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:21 PM   #12
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Gap Between CBU and Tub Flange with Smaller Tile

I have done a lot of reading on how to handle the gap between the tub flange and the CBU. It ranged from leaving it just like the pic to filling with silicone after waterproofing, to mesh tape and red guard, to filling it in with thinset.

In my case I am using smaller 3x6" subway tile and the gap at its largest span is about 1.5" or half the height of the tile I want to use.

I believe this requires that the gap be filled in. My thought would be to fill it in with thin set but I am open to suggestions.

What would be the preferred method to close this gap for smaller tile?

If it is thin set, what is the correct method to do this? Does it need a backer of some sort so that the thin set doesn't just fall behind the tub flange?

The CBU is 1/2" Durock and will be waterproofed with red guard.


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Old 03-19-2018, 11:31 AM   #13
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Your picture didn't post. Can you try to reupload a picture so we know what you are dealing with? It looks like you linked a photo, instead upload it directly to this site.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:00 PM   #14
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Thanks for the heads up John, I will try to post the pics.

This is a project I started but life happened and I had to hire it out. This is a long story I will share once I get this sorted out.

The installer was ready to red guard today but I had to hold him off until the drywall was installed next to the durock so that it could be water proofed as well. I also wanted the gap filled in so that the bottom row of tile had more base.

The pic with the subway tile is where we were this morning.

The other pic shows how they filled in the gap with thinset over mesh tape.

Tomorrow afternoon they are coming back to red guard everything.

Comments, suggestions are greatly appreciated...at this point they may just be for my learning and for anyone reading this post that is in the same situation.

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Old 03-19-2018, 09:35 PM   #15
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Hi Julio -

My concern with what they did at the Durock / tub joint is that there’s no blocking between studs. So that thinset is apt to just crumble back into the stud bay at some point.

I don’t use redgard that often so wait for others to chime in. My preference would be to have some kind of fabric span that gap, lap onto the vertical portion of the tub flange, and then turn onto the flat part of the tub deck by a little less than the thickness of the tile.
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