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Unread 01-17-2020, 05:58 PM   #16
madkaw284
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I apologize, that does make more sense to keep it all in one thread.

Right now I have the ability to make changes. Everything is demo’ed and I have a clean slate, I really just want to do it the “right” way. I’ve read how some guys say that the 2x4 curb can break down more quickly over time. I have a pretty heavy sliding glass door that will be going on the curb, so if anyone thinks that solid concrete would be a better route please let me know.



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Unread 01-17-2020, 08:45 PM   #17
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Adding roofing felt under the first 2x4 is a good idea even though I usually don't do it. I anchor the bottom board using several Tap-con screws and also add screws into the jamb. Then add more 2x4's on top of that using more screws. The pan liner usually doesn't hug the 2x4's enough to cause problems. There's a little space between the liner and 2x4's. Then wrap the curb with lath and mud it like it shows in the liberry.

For installations that call for a surface applied membrane directly to the 2x4's, then any movement in the 2x4's will transfer right to the tiles.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 08:49 PM   #18
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With a PVC liner, the best way is like I described above. If you were using a different kind of waterproofing, my answer would be different.

I don't know how far you are into this job, as far as buying materials and such, but a surface-applied waterproofing is much better than the PVC liner.

Don't get me wrong, the PVC liner works well, but the top layer of mud gets saturated with that method, while the surface-applied waterproofing stops the water penetration just below the tile. That method allows everything to dry out much faster.
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Unread 01-21-2020, 02:50 PM   #19
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Next step is to build my curb. Unwanted to here from you guys about how far I should have my curb from my existing tile. I had to cut the existing tile to the shape of our new shower layout and I would like to maximize the shower space.
I was planning on doing the 3 2x4’s method and using the Kirb perfect kit. My question is “How close should to the tile edge should my curb be, should I leave a gap or overlap the tile with mortar?”
If anyone has a suggestion I am completely open to changing something if I need to.


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Unread 01-21-2020, 02:51 PM   #20
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Here’s some pictures for a little better detail.


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Unread 01-21-2020, 03:02 PM   #21
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I usually set my curb about 1/4" from the tile. This is including everything on the curb except the tile. I want to leave a gap between the curb and tile, and have only the tile come down to about 1/8" off the face of the floor tile. That gap will get caulked.
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Unread 01-21-2020, 04:09 PM   #22
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Thanks. That’s what I was hoping to hear. That chalk line is actually where I was planning on setting the edge my curb which is currently at 1/2” so I can reduce that to 1/4” and do what you recommend with the tile on the outside face come down over the existing tile. Thanks


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Unread 01-25-2020, 10:50 AM   #23
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This may be the wrong forum, but I figure it’s worth a shot. In my current shower project I had to move one of the walls for the bigger shower floor. When I removed the old wall there is now a hole in the ceiling roughly 4” x 36”. The ceiling as a very course knock down texture that is going to be very difficult to replicate. My plan was to take a piece of drywall from the wall I tore down to patch the hole, but I won’t be able to tape and mud it with the knock down. Is there a flexible type joint compound I could put in the joints without worrying about cracking? Or is there just a better way to go about doing this? Thanks again everyone!
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Unread 01-25-2020, 11:13 AM   #24
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Just patch the drywall and finish it as you normally would, Kerry, and try to replicate the texture as best you can.

In my part of the world that's called a Monterrey or Knock Down finish. Some places call it a Splatter and Drag, which is very descriptive of the method of producing the finish. For a very small patch such as you have, you can mimic that with nothing more than a mud pan and some very loose mixed mud and something (fingers is my most common tool) to flick it onto the patch area. Then after it dries just a bit, a wide drywall knife to "knock down" the tops of the globs your splattered on there. Might take you a few tries to get it close, but all that requires is scraping the area flat and trying again.

Can be frustrating as hell, but you can do it and likely get it close enough that no one but you will ever notice.
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Unread 01-25-2020, 01:38 PM   #25
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So you think I could get away with not taping the joints or should I sand the existing area and tape over it.


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Unread 01-25-2020, 02:59 PM   #26
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I'd still likely tape the joints out of habit, Kerry, but I suppose you might get by not taping them on that small patch. Dealer's choice.
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Unread 02-05-2020, 04:44 PM   #27
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Filling hole’s in concrete foundation

I give you full timers a lot of credit. This is some tough work!
I just did my pre-pitch and am now ready to lay down my water proof membrane and do my curb. I did the typical 3 stacked 2x4’s at 70” long curb. What is a typical (or proper) thickness for the mud on the curb? I was thinking of doing 3/4” - 1” on each side and on top. Is that to thick, not thick enough? Also we’re planning on putting a 5/8” x 6” marble slab on our curb so the overall height would end up being roughly 6-1/8”. It seems high to me, or is that pretty standard. Just looking for some help from you guys. Thanks everyone


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Unread 02-05-2020, 04:46 PM   #28
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Here’s a picture for reference of what I have so far.
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Unread 02-05-2020, 05:15 PM   #29
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You have at least a 1/4-inch per foot rise from your drain to that farthest corner of the shower, Kerry? That's a minimum requirement.

I can't tell how flat your sloped floor is, but it needs to be flat. And I think I'd fill in some of those larger divots I see.

The minimum thickness of your final mud bed on top of the waterproof liner is 1 1/2 inches.

The industry standard minimum thickness for fat mud on vertical surfaces I think is 3/8ths of an inch, but I try for nothing less than 1/2-inch. You can probably do a 3/4-inch thickness in one pass on your curb if your mix is right, but if you try to get any thicker I think you'll have problems. If you really need more than 3/4-inch thickness, I'd recommend you do an initial coat, scratch it, let it cure for a day and do a second "brown" coat to make up your thickness.

Curb height is your decision. The code requirement is that the top of the finished curb be a minimum of 2 inches above the top of your drain and a maximum of 9 inches above the shower floor. Tile industry standards call for the top of the curb to be a minimum of 2 inches above the shower floor. Your curb height can be whatever you and your code compliance official think is just right.

Tell us about the framing on that back wall. Are those 2x4 studs on the flat spaced at 16 inches on center? Are they each backed by some other framing like one of the metal studs I think I see?

You plan to put higher blocking between all your joists before installing your liner? You plan to recess the bottom of the joists and the blocking to accommodate your liner, 'specially at the corner folds?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-05-2020, 05:24 PM   #30
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It’s 48” from the center of drain to the furthest corner, and my drain flange was 3/4” off the floor which you can see in post 10. So to keep it level I chalked a line around the perimeter at 1-3/4” and sloped the mud toward the drain. I would much prefer to do a thinner coat on my curb. So I’ll try the 3/4” all around. Do I use the same mix for the curb that I used for my pre-pitch? I used the 4:1 sand and Portland cement.


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