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Unread 01-16-2020, 07:07 PM   #16
Davy
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Yeah, to get started, bust a hole 14-16 inches in diameter to work on that drain.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 07:24 PM   #17
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And seeing that is is, indeed, nothing more than a floor drain as suspected, we're not even surprised beinashow you're in Florida, Eric.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 09:49 PM   #18
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It's sad to say but it doesn't surprise me at all. As I go through this house, I find something that's just "not right" at every turn. Just like my aluminum wiring where in some places the neutralsssss are junction together with the ground. Yup.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 07:21 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
I am IT guy...
Sorry. So am I.

Yup, the joys of remodeling work, a new surprise at almost every turn.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 08:26 AM   #20
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Senior Systems Engineer here lol. Windows, Linux, VMware, etc

So to drill out around this drain is it best to drill many holes around the drain and then switch to flat blade chisel? Feel like if I use either a pointed chisel or flat blade one first it could cause damage to the pipe predilled holes. And the predrilled holes might satisfy my OCD of having a "perfect" circular or square hole around the drain.

Off to buy the rotary
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Unread 01-17-2020, 08:41 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
And the predrilled holes might satisfy my OCD of having a "perfect" circular or square hole around the drain.
Yeah, no, you're gonna wanna let go of that OCD right now, cuz you're not gonna be gitten a perfect anything in concrete using a tool that hammers at it.

Save the OCD for something else, like ensuring your shoe laces are the same length just before you tie them.

Don't ask.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 11:00 AM   #22
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Dont even have to ask as I completely understand!

Well I think I got what I need...

Good deal on it I guess. Bought the Cordless Bosch hammer drill and the Cordless Bosch Osha dust extractor ($219) was free. Also bought the drill, pointed, and flat bits just in case.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 07:36 PM   #23
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I usually don't drill a bunch of holes but you can if you want. I just start hammering away. I like starting at the drain and go from there. Once you get a hole started, just keep making it bigger.

I would have bought a corded hammer drill, don't have time to wait on a battery to charge.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 08:58 PM   #24
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Hey Davy.

That's exactly what I started working on it around the drain and will continue tomorrow. Buddy called and well ended up at hit some balls at driving range.

I debated that all week in anticipation that I would end up needing one. Ended up going cordless because cords have made it difficult in some situations and angles. So far I'm impressed as I used them for maybe 10 mins and looks like a battery might run for an hour (not continuously )

Question, considering we know this is a 2" metal drain pipe any ideas on items I should order for next step? Where I live sometimes it's hard to find certain things so I like to order what i can from Amazon a day or two before i need it.

I have seen on sorta similar threads mention of "nohub", "nohub" with kerdi flange kit, some special kerdi for cast iron, etc. Although my current decision is to go with redgard for the walls it's my understanding that kerdi could be used for the drain.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 02:27 AM   #25
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Most of the time you can find all the plumbing parts you need at the big box stores or from a plumbing supply. I would wait to see what I need first to keep from buying more things than I need.

I would stick to one system for your shower. If you want to go Schluter, use it on the walls too. There's lots of installers here that use Kerdi and can guide you each step of the way.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 11:59 AM   #26
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I have two Homedepot (they dont carry kerdi in either store) and a lowes in my small town and they dont have kerdi flange kits only the 2 different grates. Closest location with a decent selection is a lowes and a tile store about 40mins away in Tampa.

Also I'm not 100% sold as to the price/value cost on kerdi vs redgard. But I also dont do tiling, carpentry, plumbing, etc for a living however I understand the attraction to Schluter products.

They both seem great and I feel, so far in my research, as though redgard is easier and smaller chances of failure as its 2-3 coats of all surfaces. So if you miss a tiny hole somewhere chances are the 2nd or 3rd coat would catch it. But Schluter is like (hope I dont start something with this ) Apple lol. One Kerdi board is approx the cost of three cement which would cover like 2/3rds of my shower walls. Love the Schluter benches, niches, shelves, etc but again the price of each.

I'll concentrate on finding some more pro cons of schluter vs redgard to make me switch to schluter. What will make it easier is if this guy selling several boards, couple membrane boards, niche, bench, curb, valve cover, screws etc still has it for $150. Then I'm in since a shower kit is $600.

Want to say thanks again to everyone as yall are giving me the extra comfort on doing this on my own so far instead of hiring someone immediately.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 12:41 PM   #27
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Eric, when you're trying to compare the sheet-type direct bonded waterproofing membranes with the liquid-applied membranes, you need to keep in mind that applying the liquid membranes is not like painting the bedroom walls. The manufacturers would have you believe it's that simple, but if you look at their requirement for the thickness of each coat you'll quickly learn that you cannot even realistically apply it with a paint roller used as a paint roller is commonly used.

I would personally never use a liquid-applied membrane, anyone's liquid-applied membrane, to make a shower receptor. For walls they're safe enough, but you'll still not likely achieve the manufacturer's thickness requirements.

I think you can still get the Durock Shower System membrane and drain on Amazon and those are the only two components you need for a very good waterproof shower. And the price is very reasonable. If Amazon doesn't have it, try Contractors Direct online. They just purchased a good bit of USG's going out of business stock.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 12:59 PM   #28
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I've used the paint on membranes on probably a dozen curbless showers and use the fabric also. I apply the fabric in the second coat and it really seems thick enough. I then add two more coats, letting each coat dry in between.

I'd still stick to one method, myself.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 01:29 PM   #29
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I used Kerdiboard on my shower. I live near Dade City somewhat north east of you. It was a bit more expensive but it was much easier, didn't require to install drywall or cement board and I feel very confident it is a waterproof shower. Something that will last 20 or more years means you can justify the cost because it lasts longer. Just like apple products...

The Floor and decor in Tampa near the Buc's stadium sells it. That is were I bought it.

My shower:
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Unread 01-20-2020, 11:16 AM   #30
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CX,

Redgard does use a roller and they now have a maximum thickness and provide sq ft coverage since the minimum thickness requirement was so troublesome. But always appreciate alternative views on things.

Math,

I actually went to the one in Clearwater and they have a good selection it's just the drive lol. Thanks homie.


Davy,

That's the general direction I was thinking.

It looks like i might have scored a $150 schluter deal

2 full rolls of schluter membrane 1 partial
2 full sheets of 1/2 inch thick schluter boards
1 pack of schluter screws and washers.
1 schluter shower curb.
1 schluter mixing valve seal
1 schluter pipe seal
10 schluter outside corners
6 schluter inside corners
Multiple partial sheets of schluter board.
Extra thick schluter board for shower bench


Good news for once, well I hope at least. So I finally broke through and I believe it is a 2" plastic pipe into a plastic p-trap. There was plastic and roots I had to cut through and found two metal rods at the same time. Assume the rods are for providing structure to the concrete.

I hope this means, in general, getting the correct drain and cutting the pvc height accordingly.
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