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Unread 05-07-2019, 11:54 AM   #106
Elkski
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Well I made the LINE!
I will start 1 row below the niche. Do some work in center of this wall.
At some point I will have to set the side dilex eke. it's means I may have to work on the bench a little bit because I don't want to have to splice in pieces I want one continuous piece from the bench top to the ceiling.
But maybe splicing in the corners gives me more freedom rather than grouting in all the edges first? I'm going to use quadec around the Niche face with two horizontal pieces in the middle. I will box in a horizontal White tile in the center of the niche. This is actually quite complicated and I will have to work on the niche at the same time as the field and then make sure my front tiles will be in a plane all the way to the corners and be okay with the kerdi build up in the corners.

I'm using the quadec corners and they are a little strange looking how they fit in. What I mean is there will be a different thickness of grout line at the half inch corners from the field tile to the metal. it will be smaller than the 16th inch that's built into the quadec and there will be no grip structure which worries me.
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Unread 06-01-2019, 12:20 AM   #107
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Help!!
I'm back from vacation and ready to start this shower TIle. I grouted the blue glass and was about to cut the bottom of the niche but started trying to figure out how to orient that full tile just below the niche so it is in the plane of the entire wall including high spots at kerdi buildup.
The quadec in the niche, bottom shelf of niche tile width, I have Dilex-EKE on each edge. I started thinking I should put the dilex on first all the way top to bottom and across the ceiling and top back of bench. Then I need to set a couple full rows of tile using my leveling system from left Dilex to right dikex. If I put a straight edge across I get 1/8"+ gaps near the niche. So I am going to need a full 1/2" square notch there and less near the high spots.
Maybe I should start the wall on top of bench. I can lay the bench tile last Because it will slip under the dilex.

Any ideas on how to get started. I don't have to have a grout line right at bottom of the Niche like I had planned.
I took off ledger board and I am cutting in trim. And may start on bench and try to cut that tile so a grout line works out on the niche.
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Unread 06-01-2019, 06:51 PM   #108
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I think I understand why not too many people use this Dikex-eke. It's very hard to layout and cut. It's hard to cut nice cuts even with a sharp blade. It requires lots if thinking and planning and takes to much time. I'm not sure how to handle walls that are not straight, it seems important for the one non overhang side to mount linear.
Do I plan to leave a small grout line next to the PVC grout line or do you not grout this joint like I assumed? I used an expansion joint in a floor and didn't grout that but it easy ti lay a floor one straight since only one plane. Seems like grout would chip out easily but it is also going to be hard to get tiles to fit snug.
Maybe I will set them using a straight edge on the flush tile side. On the other side the tile can slip under 1/4 to hide cuts.
I do have a gap on the niche so I'm glad I didn't hold my quadec up flush to wall and cut my side pieces. It looks like the thinset in the middle of the wall is going to be thick. This will also ney first time to use the Rubi tile level leveling system.
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Unread 06-01-2019, 07:52 PM   #109
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Yes, it does take a lot of planning to get those set up, and out-of-plane walls makes it even worse.

Did you see the corners that are available with those profiles. They're expensive as all get-out, but they save a lot of headache when it comes to cutting corners, because you can just cut the profiles off straight.

As expensive as they are, they would be a very small percentage of the total cost of the shower, and would make your job easier, and look better in the end.
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Unread 06-01-2019, 08:44 PM   #110
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I got the corners for The quadec outlining the niche. I don't think they make corners fir the Dikex-EKE.
Also the sloped ceiling is going to make it hard to push the dilex into the <90 degree corner and I may have to trim off one mounting leg on the >90 degree lower corner. This sloped ceiling was stupid for me to do.
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Unread 06-02-2019, 04:46 PM   #111
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I installed my shelf bottoms at what I think is a correct plane for the wall. They are level with my laser. They have a good slope. I taped off the back niche grout first. But wanted to use white thinset I had just in case. I also installed the Dilex-EKE on the bench top and sides. I used Kerabond rather than Kerabond T because it is white and the Kerabond T I will use under the big 12x24" tiles is grey. I figured this thinset was ok since the tiles are so small. But I am surprised at the thinset being soft in the dilex trapezoids 5 hours later? I can visualize the thinset in the corner trapped behind that Dilex will take some time to breath. I worry to much.
The experienced guy at floor and decor said to think of it as the T is for top of ditra or kerdi.
Let me know if this is all ok so far. I won't probably put any wall tiles on until 24 hours pass.
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Unread 06-03-2019, 11:52 PM   #112
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ItStarted finally.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 09:55 PM   #113
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Took 4 tries to cut that tile above my niche but I learned quite a bit of things. Took off the ledger board kerdi band at the holes got the for Central or tiles ready to go in the morning.

Should I use my white tile on the front of the center niche or the blue glass?
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Unread 06-06-2019, 06:14 AM   #114
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Looks good so far, I like the layout and the niche.

The Dilex looks like a pain in the ass to install but you will enjoy not ever having to caulk Based on my experience with the aluminum profile, I just bought a aluminum wood high tooth count blade for my miter saw and cut all my miters and straight cuts on there. That should make your cuts go a lot smoother than using a knife. HD and Lowe's also sell pvc shears for plumbing that may work as well.
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Unread 06-06-2019, 08:21 AM   #115
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Looking good Teddy!
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Unread 06-06-2019, 09:29 AM   #116
Elkski
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I did not try my chop saw that has a 60 tooth blade on the vinyl I will try that. I tried it on some quadec and I about broke my thumb. It worked well on aluminum deck railing but that was much thicker and didn't flex and grab in the teeth. maybe could cut quadec on chopsaw t if I have some wood backing but I have now decided I cut it a little big with my hacksaw in a miter box and then take it to the belt sander it is very nice. And square each time.

My tile design is quite simple compared to many of y'all's pictures.
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Unread 06-06-2019, 12:40 PM   #117
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I wouldn't use a 60 tooth, you'll blow out the plastic. Try something like the Freud 1080N (80 Tooth, safe on most aluminum profiles and pvc). I cut all my schluter profiles with the 1080N. Looks good so far, I like the design, your layout looks perfect from here.
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Unread 06-06-2019, 01:19 PM   #118
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I cut my Schluter profiles mostly with an angle grinder but they were all stainless steel. The aluminum ones I cut manually with a miter saw.
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Unread 06-06-2019, 07:12 PM   #119
Elkski
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The Dilex cuts ok with sharp DeWalt long blade knife.
The belt sander leaves a smooth square cut on the aluminum. My wall was quite square. I cut the two top tiles the same width straight across. A few grout line issues. I think a couple tiles moved using those leveling clips. Several clips broke. Usually the ones I felt I needed most. I have some lippage that slipped by.
I think most customers would accept this.
I do have to say this Dilex is a PITA to install. And then you have a height you need to hit pretty close.
Caulk would be so easy.
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Unread 06-07-2019, 06:51 AM   #120
Elkski
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I wanted to ask a question about my Niche tiles. I read where CX grouts all the tiles in the niche.
I agreed with this idea because I think the kerdi preformed Niche should be a solid stable substrate. but I am a little worried about the large temperature fluctuations in my steam shower and the fact that I supported the top tile with the sidewalls directly resting on the sill tile and I don't think there's any space at all and I was going to go groutless on those joints and just grout the back joint between the glass tiles and my side and tops. Do you think this will be an issue I need to worry about?
My DILEX-EKE has a gray PVC AND I HAD PLANNED ON USING A GRAY GROUT BUT THEN I'VE BEEN THINKING ABOUT GOING WITH WHITE IN THE FIELD WALL TILE BUT AFTER LOOKING AT ALI's SHOWER I'M THINKING ABOUT GOING back WITH A CONTRASTING grey COLOR. Sorry about the all-caps there.
One more question. Using this corner trim as well as the jolly on a vertical waterfall stripe down my side head wall and using a ledger board means I have to splice the bottom part of this trim. the DILEX seems to splice quite cleanly and I can make the metal as good as possible but it's still going to bother me sitting in my steam shower looking at those butt splices right in front of my eyes but I don't see any way around this and still being able to tie in the Kerdi wall to the mud bed Kerdi.
One last comment for today. After reading Ali's shower thread and doing my shower I now realize not many individual homeowners would ever pay the price required for a quality shower. I'm thinking my labor on this steam shower would have to be seven $8,000 to make it justified.

PS. I'm so glad I did not tile the floor and put the linear drain in first before the walls and ceiling. Ali looked like a clean room compared yo mess.
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