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Unread 06-18-2022, 05:44 PM   #1
Linda74
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Schluter Profiles on Tub Apron?

Hello. Thanks in advance for being such a helpful community!

I had to pull out our tub and tile surround because of water damage, and I'm working on learning how to put it all back together. I would love some input from you knowledgeable folks!

Our new tub is a Victoria & Albert Kaldera 2, made from a limestone composite. It can be a drop-in, but I got the version with the factory installed flange so I could install it as an alcove. I went that way partly because I want a tiled apron.

So, now I'm ready to frame that apron and I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to connect the tile to the front edge of the tub.

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I'm planning to use the Schluter Rondec profile as trim on the edges of the main tub surround, and I'm wondering if I could also use it along the top edge of the apron - framing so that my backer board (I'm planning to use Kerdi-board) is vertically flush with the flat front edge of the tub, and then installing the Rondec so that it covers that front edge, basically making a rounded edge instead of a squared off edge. Something like this cross-section drawing:

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Do any of you with experience using Rondec have thoughts on whether that could work? And if so, what would be the best way of attaching the Rondec to the limestone composite tub edge in a way that would be water-tight? Could I attach it with Kerdi-fix?

Or, would making the tile vertically flush with the front edge and using the Dilex-KSA be a better idea? I think I'd like the rounded look of the Rondec better, but I'm wondering if the Dilex-KSA set-up would leave less chance of water seeping in over time. Although, I don't imagine that transition be exposed to a lot of water since this is mostly used as a shower, with a curtain protecting that area.

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Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, etc., would be much appreciated! Thanks!
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Unread 06-18-2022, 08:38 PM   #2
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Welcome, Linda.

I would personally select option #2, but without the Schluter profile at all. You could simply end your tile at the bottom of the tub lip and seal that joint with a grout color matched flexible sealant for movement accommodation. There will be movement there.

If you do option #1, you really need to install the Rondec per Schluter's instructions, which would include bonding the tile leg with thinset mortar along with the tile. How well that would work, I cannot say. You could then seal the tub/Rondec joint with some flexible sealant there, too, if you want.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-18-2022, 08:42 PM   #3
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Hello, Linda. Welcome to the forum.

I would probably go with the last option. And you could use the Schluter profile if you want, but it's not really necessary.

And you may find that if the front edge of your tub isn't perfectly straight, that trim piece probably won't fit there anyway. But you can cut the tile to fit any most any contour.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 07:48 AM   #4
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Have been doing my own tiled tub apron, Linda, and agree with both CX and Kevin. Install your framing and backer so that the tile will be flush/nearly flush with the front of the tub.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 08:19 AM   #5
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If you go with #1, you'll want to add a strip of Kerdi band to overlap the fiberglass tub lip and the K-board.

You can adhere it to the tub with Kerdi fix.

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Unread 06-19-2022, 08:53 AM   #6
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I'd hate to have to remove that Kerdifix for a remodel some day down the road.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 11:23 AM   #7
Linda74
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Thank you all for your welcome and suggestions. I had a feeling the second option was better, even though I prefer the aesthetics of the first.

CX, is there a "grout color matched flexible sealant" you would recommend?
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Unread 06-19-2022, 12:30 PM   #8
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All the manufacturers of tile grout make a silicone sealant to match some of their grout colors. Some may make those sealants in a sanded finish, but I'm not aware of those.

The folks at ColorRite make, in their Color Sil line, 100 percent silicone in colors to match any grout color and in satin and sanded finishes. Beware the shipping costs.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 12:34 PM   #9
Linda74
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Thanks! I so appreciate everyone's help.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 12:52 PM   #10
Linda74
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I'm realizing I should also make sure I'm planning correctly for the transition at the floor, where the new apron will meet the existing floor tile. I'm assuming I should also seal that joint with a flexible sealant?
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Unread 06-19-2022, 12:59 PM   #11
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Linda, the tile industry standards require the use of a flexible sealant in the tile surface at all joints where the backing material makes a change of plane or where the tile adjoins a different material.

In wet areas, what's usually recommended is a 100 percent silicone. In non-wet areas, the composition is less important, but the material should still meet the requirements of ASTM C-920 so you can be aware of its capabilities.

Long-winded way of saying yes. But it should help you decide where else you should use such sealants in lieu of grout.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-19-2022, 01:05 PM   #12
Linda74
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Thanks so much! That's very helpful!
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