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Unread 09-22-2020, 12:18 PM   #16
redlude97
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Now questions for the next steps.

1. I was maybe a bit too aggressive cleaning out the grout between the tiles when laying them to not get my leveling system to messy so I wiped a good bit away at the tops of the entire length of the tiles with my margin trowel. I'm now left with 1/8" wide grout joints that are varying in depth from 3/8"" where the remaining plastic of the leveling clip is to 5/8" where I was too aggressive with my oscillating saw and grout blade. Do I need to fill that entire space with grout or is a bit of air behind the grout going to be an issue for those deeper sections? Should I go back and pre fill with a grout bag or something to bring the level out?

2. The tile had a bit of bowing for the 12x24 along the length and I found I had to back butter and add ridges to the back of the tile in addition to wall with a 1/2" square notch trowel to get 100% coverage and collapse all the ridges. I checked a bunch of the tiles by pulling them up occasionally which was almost impossible to do with the suction but I ended up with some sections with the thinset maybe 1/2" thick behind the tile. Will this fail or cause issues? I used schluter all-set mixed on the heavy side of the consistency according to the instructions for LFT. They don't have a recommendation on max thickness. Everything seems solid and bound well and nothing sounds hollow but I know its supposed to be more like 1/4" thick which is the case towards the edges of the tile but not in the center.

3. Finally, when grouting, the tile is flat with just a microbevel 45. Do I wash until its flush with the tile or down to the microbevel? I'll have a ramp the grout slightly in a couple corners with lippage but want it to look as consistent as possible. I beveled all the edges of my cuts too so there should be a bevel on all grout joints.
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Unread 09-25-2020, 12:18 PM   #17
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Bump. Any help on my questions is much appreciated. Its been hard to piece together the nuances of tiling. Thanks!
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Unread 09-25-2020, 07:08 PM   #18
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If I understand the problem, you have some very deep grout joints because you used very thick bonding mortar to flatten your tile installation.

1. Some grouts, usually only the cementitious grouts, can be sensitive to differences in application thickness. This us usually evident where some of the joints are very shallow and others deep. From your description, it appears you have at least 3/8ths of an inch of depth, but some joints are deeper. I would not anticipate the same sort of problem there, but that might also depend upon the ambient conditions when the grout is curing and drying.

You must fill those grout joints, though. If you don't, I think you'll have bigger problems than just a potential for blotchy grout color.

There are non-cementitious grouts that might work well in those uneven joint depths and still yield a uniform color.

2. I've not used Schluter's All-Set and their online information does not indicate that it is a LHT mortar. Does the A118.4 designation on the bag have a letter H after it? Such LHT mortars can be used in sections as thick as 1/2" and some manufacturers specify even thicker allowances. Perhaps someone else out here knows if the All-Set is such a mortar.

3. You would normally be expected to fill those grout joints to the bottom of the micro-bevel on the edges.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-26-2020, 12:25 PM   #19
redlude97
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Thanks for the reply CX.
1. I was planning on using mapei ultracolor fa which is cement based with a sealer? Will that be an issue? I believe their flexcolor cq is non cement based which I could switch to instead. I will plan on packing the grout joints well. Is simply using a grout float and packing the joint well with multiple passes sufficient or do I need to do something else extra to ensure complete fill?

2. It does not have an H designation but does have a T. I emailed schluter but have not heard back yet. They do have info on their spec sheet for the use of a 3/4" notch for certain applications.

3. Will do that

Thanks again
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Unread 10-05-2020, 11:42 AM   #20
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So I got around to grouting this weekend using mapei flexcolor CQ, like they warn it sets up fast and it was my first time, so I ended up with grout in some of the change of planes that set up before they could be easily removed. particularly in the niche corners and back edges near the mosaic


So I need to scrape this all out before I caulk the corners with silicone(mapesil T)? I know some people say yes and some say you can caulk over corners.

Is the only concern the change of plane grout cracks or is the space there needed to prevent the tiles from buckling from expansion and popping out?

I could not prevent the grout haze despite washing extensively and changing buckets, probably a dozen 5 gallon buckets total with a rotation of 5 sponges.
In the process I may have over-wet some of the grout joints and overwashed them. They aren't deep but they are more textured from the aggregate compared to other joints which may indicate i washed out some of the surface latex? Will this be an issue long term and should I scrape out and refill these joints or fill over the top? Mapei says the flexcolor sticks to itself unlike cement grouts but will a thin layer fail?

Thanks again in advance
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Unread 10-05-2020, 11:46 AM   #21
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I can't remember the name of it now, but Mapei has a specific product they recommend for removal of grout haze on their site/instructions. I've successfully removed haze with that product and a cheesecloth in the past.

You can top off lower grout joints with more flexcolor cq no problem, I've never had an issue with separation or lack of bonding even as shallow as 1/16" although you might find it hard to tool the joint at that depth. Worst case is you wash off the area and start over.

Looks like you handled that sliver cut well too, what method ended up working?

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Unread 10-05-2020, 11:52 AM   #22
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Hai, the only purpose of the flexible sealant in the tile joints at the changes of plane is to provide movement accommodation. If you have grout in those joints, there is no value at all to sealant.

Your choices are to remove the grout and apply the sealant per tile industry standards or just grout the entire joint and take your chances. I have personally grouted many corner joints in new showers and have yet to lose one, but see my warranty information below. It is not uncommon to get hairline cracks when doing that.

I've no long term experience with the MAPEI product, but I have added thin sections to low grout joints with the similar competing Custom product and it works just fine, as advertised.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-05-2020, 12:08 PM   #23
redlude97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radas
I can't remember the name of it now, but Mapei has a specific product they recommend for removal of grout haze on their site/instructions. I've successfully removed haze with that product and a cheesecloth in the past.

You can top off lower grout joints with more flexcolor cq no problem, I've never had an issue with separation or lack of bonding even as shallow as 1/16" although you might find it hard to tool the joint at that depth. Worst case is you wash off the area and start over.

Looks like you handled that sliver cut well too, what method ended up working?
I ended up dressing my mini wet saw blade and cutting 6 tiles total to finally get something I was happy with. I did drill a hole in the corner then grinded the corner smooth.

For the haze I wish I had just stopped washing as the haze had already set up but kept trying to scrub it off avoiding the grout lines but water still got in them that I had to continue to wipe way. They recommend their epoxy haze remover which I will have to try to pick up next weekend. Does it matter how long it cures for or does the haze remover work better right away?
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Unread 10-05-2020, 12:11 PM   #24
redlude97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
Hai, the only purpose of the flexible sealant in the tile joints at the changes of plane is to provide movement accommodation. If you have grout in those joints, there is no value at all to sealant.

Your choices are to remove the grout and apply the sealant per tile industry standards or just grout the entire joint and take your chances. I have personally grouted many corner joints in new showers and have yet to lose one, but see my warranty information below. It is not uncommon to get hairline cracks when doing that.

I've no long term experience with the MAPEI product, but I have added thin sections to low grout joints with the similar competing Custom product and it works just fine, as advertised.

My opinion; worth price charged.
My though it that the sealant would hide the grout hairline crack if it were to form. My friend's shower they grouted the corners and they applied clear silicone over the top and that has been holding up for like 10 years.

I'll try to scrape out some of the grout before I apply sealant.
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Unread 10-05-2020, 12:12 PM   #25
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I used the haze remover on a 1 year old install over glass tile on some areas I kept putting off cleaning and it worked with some elbow grease. YMMV on a porcelain surface so try scrubbing a scrap tile to make sure it won't alter the glaze before you start.

Good call on the hole at the corner, I'm glad it worked out!

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