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Unread 08-17-2020, 09:50 AM   #31
mouseandcat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buldogge
The fasteners will only be at the front face between he completed niche and the adjacent kerdi-boards.
i'm not following. the kerdi fasteners would have to be on screwed into the 'border' of the niche since the 'back' of the niche is the backside of the drywall of the adjacent room. are you suggesting to not drill into the trimmer, bottom sill, or top sill? here is an image where i marked with black circles where i the fasteners would go into the two-by material: https://i.imgur.com/fRiNZ72.png

if this works, should i be adding screws to join the 'edges' of the kerdi board niche? i may not even want a bottom screw to minimize number of holes?


Quote:
Originally Posted by buldogge
2) Do not use std 1.5" king AND jack studs...the niche flange is 2" wide (including the overlap of the 1.2" material)...if you use doubled std studs, you're fasteners will fall on the joint between them. Instead, use 3/4" material for the inner supports/box and then the joint for the niche and the adjacent kerdi-board will fall on the meat of the king stud.
this is assuming i am using the kerdi shower niche kit, correct? since otherwise if i build a custom niche using 1/2" kerdi board, i will go over the seams/gaps of the niche and kerdi board with kerdi membrane/kerdi band as shown here: https://i.imgur.com/ntQqLK0.png


screenshot taken from:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0KQZX-7czU&t=17m30s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0KQZX-7czU&t=25m
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Unread 08-17-2020, 10:40 AM   #32
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I use Kerdi Fix to glue the cut pieces together and to glue it to the wall and the side of the studs. If you are using Kerdi board you can wait to cut the niche till you get one row of tiles away. Then you can measure where to start the cut and have it line up with the tile edges.
You have to plan for the top of the niche and add a bit of space for the thinset and tile to line up at the top.
I buy the kerdi corners just for the bottom of the niche.

You can buy what is called Rondec or other variations to use for edging of the niche and it looks much better than tile edges. You can also buy types of bullnose or corner tile to form the edges of the niche.

In the two pictures below, one you can see where I planned and cut the top niche after I got close with a row of tiles.

The bottom one on the other picture has the rondec edges but it is a bit hard to see.
Attached Images
  
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Unread 08-17-2020, 10:40 AM   #33
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Mouse, it would be most helpful if you'd use the paper-clip icon above the Reply dialog box to attach photos from storage on your computer so they appear in your post and don't disappear later when your third-party site changes the link to them.
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Unread 08-17-2020, 12:10 PM   #34
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Profiles got started by Schluter and was their original product prior to Kerdi and Ditra. They are designed to provide decorative and/or expansion joints when tiling. An expansion joint does not use any caulk with a profile is used, as the profile itself provides that function. A few companies make profiles. Schluter probably has the largest selection. https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/c/P
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Unread 08-17-2020, 12:14 PM   #35
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Yes...

My comments mainly refer to using the prebuilt Schluter niches...or, if you build one from 1/2" board and build it the same way as Schluter does.

As mathman said, no fasteners thru the sides, just kerdi fix.

If you build a simple box with no flange, then yes, just kerdifix in place and then wrap kerdi band from the wall/face kerdi board onto the inner sides of the niche.

If you go that route, then there is really no need for jack studs, at all...just run your sill and header boards, once you have your tile layout/grout joint figured out.

-Mark
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Unread 08-17-2020, 02:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashua
Profiles got started by Schluter and was their original product prior to Kerdi and Ditra
got it, no i'm not interested in the the 'Profiles' product but can see how it is convenient.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman
I use Kerdi Fix to glue the cut pieces together and to glue it to the wall and the side of the studs
Quote:
Originally Posted by buldogge
If you build a simple box with no flange, then yes, just kerdifix in place and then wrap kerdi band from the wall/face kerdi board onto the inner sides of the niche.
yes, this is what i will do, kerdi fix product on all the faces to adhere to the trimmers, bottom sill, top sill.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman
I buy the kerdi corners just for the bottom of the niche.
i'll then use the kerdi corners for the corners, expensive but much easier

Quote:
If you go that route, then there is really no need for jack studs, at all...just run your sill and header boards, once you have your tile layout/grout joint figured out.
i agree with you about jack studs, i could just move some cripple material to frame the immediate hole and that should be enough, it's not going to be overly wide either, maybe 30" wide.



i attached screenshots of how i will approach the tub lip + kerdi board transition

https://i.imgur.com/j8MZYpw.png
https://i.imgur.com/DQN81gG.png
https://i.imgur.com/QeYezo6.png

(attachment rules wont allow bigger photos so i wont be attaching them)
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Unread 09-20-2020, 10:40 PM   #37
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dry wall for bathroom (not in shower/tub surround)

hi all, finally about to get ready to put up kerdi board and dry wall in the bathroom. i'm wondering 2 things:

(1) what kind of drywall is best for the walls outside of my shower+tub combo walls (those will be kerdi)? i'm in upper midwest, so cold. i'm reading that green/purple are the same ('trade' colors, different manufacturers) but also that the mold resistant drywall doesn't do anything

(2) ceiling joists are 16-inches on-center, can i use 5/8 inch drywall? i will not be tiling over it, only paint.

(3) do i need use mold resistant drywall on the ceiling over the shower+tub combo? ceiling height is about 9 feet.
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Unread 09-20-2020, 10:43 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman
I use Kerdi Fix to glue the cut pieces together and to glue it to the wall and the side of the studs. If you are using Kerdi board you can wait to cut the niche till you get one row of tiles away. Then you can measure where to start the cut and have it line up with the tile edges.
about to start on my kerdi-board shower+tub install. going to buy the board this weekend and get started! i'll update as i get going.
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Unread 09-20-2020, 11:36 PM   #39
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1. Plain white gypsum board for my money unless you have a code compliance inspector who wants something else in some area.

2. Yes.

3. No.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-21-2020, 09:46 AM   #40
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cx, thanks.

is there any advantage in having the mold/mildew resistant drywall boards? the logic somehow doesn't make sense: if there are water issues, then no drywall will help. if there aren't, then 'regular' drywall should be fine.

is there an ideal use-case for these mold/mildew resistant drywall boards?
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Unread 09-21-2020, 09:55 AM   #41
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None that I'm aware of. A properly sized and used exhaust fan in the bathroom makes its climate about the same as any other room in the house in my view.

They make good liners for dumpsters. But that's:

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-21-2020, 05:54 PM   #42
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A quality paint and proper ventilation and drywall outside of wet areas works. FWIW, the ceiling over a typical shower is not considered a wet area unless it is enclosed, which is common for a steam shower...then, drywall wouldn't be allowed, anyways.
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Unread 10-16-2020, 12:17 AM   #43
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decided to go with kerdiboard. i'm trying to size my shower niche, i attached a diagram of what i'm thinking. i'm hoping someone can double check my calculations and let me know what i'm missing https://i.imgur.com/MzGh4BK.png

i made these calculations given the following parameters below:

kerdiboard (not sure thinset thickness)
subway tile: 3"x9" (setting the tile 'wide' against the wall)
1/16" grout line

questions:

- i'm wanting to add a 1/2" thick border of quartz (or some other stone if it can get that thin). for the top and bottom how can i support a 3-1/2" x 29-1/2" x 1/2" 'strip' of quartz (or any other type of ceramic/stone/manmade stone)? only two things i can think of are (1) adhesive and (2) support of the side pieces

- any best practices for layout and sizing to ensure the shower niche borders end on grout lines so i dont have to tile 'long' ways (i will have to cut the tile width wise to stagger them so i'm not as worried about the width of the shower niche).
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Unread 10-16-2020, 08:11 AM   #44
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Mouse,

Not sure I'm following what you mean by "border". Do you mean you want to use solid surface material (Quartz,/Stone/etc) for the bottom shelf and top (roof) of the niche? Thinset mortar will be the adhesive you want to use, and to temporarily hold the top piece up just cut some pieces of wood slightly shorter than the necessary length and use shims to make up the difference.

The photo of your framing shows double 2X4's top and bottom, you really only need 1 top and bottom.

I'm unclear what you mean by "setting the tile 'wide' against the wall".
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Last edited by ss3964spd; 10-16-2020 at 10:32 AM. Reason: spelling...
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Unread 10-16-2020, 09:02 AM   #45
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sorry for the confusion. i attached an image as an example of what i'm trying to do with my shower niche.

yes, that's right about the 'border': i want to have a solid piece all the way around rather than use the subway tile. in the image i attached, for the side 'border' looks like they used subway tile to line up lines of the tile instead of 1 piece of stone/tile. in my mind i would have the same stone all the way around, i'm hoping for 1/2" thick but not sure if i can get quartz that thin.

double 2x4: yes i just want to double up to be sure, it's not a load bearing wall but figured it's not any significant cost or effort.

'wide' orientation: i meant that i would lay the tile 'long-wise', as shown in the example photo i attached.

i definitely want to calculate the distances to make sure the niche upper and lower parts match up grout lines.
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