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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:06 PM   #31
arnav
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Re:

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnav
I am wondering if I can avoid having to redo it. I know the flange has to sit on top of the tiles.
- Can I get away making a hole just big enough in the CBU to insert the toilet flange through it, tile, and then secure the flange again?
- Butt two sheets of CBU at the toilet flange?
Basically, do you have to cut off and remove the PVC toilet flange if it is in a good shape?

For other bathrooms I:
1. Cut the toilet flange out with a dremel so that I have a bare PVC pipe.
2. Screw the CBU down, with a hole in it that will allow the PVC pipe to fit through
3. tile
4. redo the plumbing and screw the toilet flange down on top of the tiles.

Whereas now, since the flange is in a good shape and fairly new, I am wondering if I can leave it be:

1. Unscrew the current flange from the tiles
2. Demo/remove the old tiles and CBU
3. Screw new CBU down but make a hole big enough in it so that the toilet flange can go through
4. Tile
5. Screw the toilet flange over the new tiles.

Only the tiles would hold the actual flange (since the hole in the CBU was made big enough for the flange to fit through when screwing the CBU down)
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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:16 PM   #32
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A pinless moisture meter can be fooled if the material contains any metallic material. A pin type probably could be as well as it's measuring resistance, and metal will affect that without correction. So, depending on what material they used to pressure treat it, it may not work right at all. Maybe the safer solution would be to weigh the stuff, if you had a reference and an accurate scale!

I read up a little on this, and depending on the model of pinless, it is using an electromagnetic field that will give you an assessment of what's in either 1/4" to the surface, or 3/4" to the surface of the wood you're inspecting. Make sure that the sensor is in perfect contact with the wood if you want it to give accurate results, and have either corrected the reading for the type of wood, or input it into a smarter one that has that capability.
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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:23 PM   #33
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Your current flange is at exactly the correct height to allow it to be sitting on top of your tiles?

You mentioned earlier that you could split your CBU in that area to fit under your drain flange. Why is that not an option now?

The toilet drain flange is not supposed to be supporting anything but the wax ring use to seal it to the bottom of the toilet. Best to have if firmly mounted, but it's not really structural in nature. That said, it's still best to mount the flange firmly on top of the finished floor. Here's what a proper installation should look like:

Name:  Toilet Flange Seal Cutaway.jpg
Views: 85
Size:  21.2 KB

Many people would leave your flange where it is on the subfloor (presumably?) and use flange extenders. I don't much favor that sort of installation, but it's known to work.

I also know of some plumbers who install the flanges directly on top of SOG floors and use nothing but a standard wax ring to seat the toilet on top of the tile floor. I've not heard of any of them leaking, but I'm not recommending that, either.

If you already know how to remove and replace the flange in this situation, why are you wanting not to do it in this particular installation?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:41 PM   #34
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yes, the current flange is the correct height and is sitting over the tiles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
You mentioned earlier that you could split your CBU in that area to fit under your drain flange. Why is that not an option now?
It is. I wanted to make sure it is not important to use a single contiguous CBU board in that area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
If you already know how to remove and replace the flange in this situation, why are you wanting not to do it in this particular installation?
Was just looking for one less thing to do i guess being that the pvc pipe and flange are fairly new. If it gets iffy, I will most certainly redo it.

Thx!
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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:50 PM   #35
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Having a flange lower than by design (happens a lot!) generally works, but the thicker the wax required to make the seal, the more prone it is to a blowout should you ever need to plunge the toilet.

Often, the flange gets installed on the subflooring because the builder doesn't want to pay to have the plumber come back later, and it can mess up the plumbing inspection if it's not installed when he arrives. There are millions of toilets installed this way. It's not ideal, but generally works.

It's code in many places to use some sealant around the base of the toilet (leaving the back open). This does two things:
- helps to hold the toilet in place (tile provides little friction between the porcelain tile and the porcelain toilet). Don't use a silicone one, or you will have big trouble getting the toilet up, if needed, later!
- prevents dribbles or whatever from misses, or mopping to get underneath the toilet where it's nearly impossible to clean it up, eventually, creating some smells.

FWIW, try NOT to use an all-plastic flange. Choose one with a SS (not painted steel) ring, as it won't rust, and will end up stronger. A flange is designed to be installed tight to the FINISHED floor, and anchored into it.

If the pipe or toilet moves relative to the wax seal, since the wax won't rebound, a rocking toilet, or a moved one, or a flexible pipe/flange can cause a gap. If nothing else, it can let sewer gasses escape, but in a clog situation, other stuff, too.
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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:56 PM   #36
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Yep, I always install over the tiles, anchor to the subfloor, and always use an SS ring one.

I haven't been using wax rings at all. I have been having great success with the wax-less ones.
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Unread 07-31-2020, 06:26 AM   #37
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Just my opinion, Dan, but given what looks to be easy access to the terlet drain I'd cut it out. I think you'd spend as much time working around and under it as you would removing/replacing. The floor will be more solid in that critical area and the parts are darn cheap.
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Unread 07-31-2020, 11:47 AM   #38
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Fair enough. Thanks for the advice. will do. I guess that pipe still has room in it for a few more couplings before it has to be cut way way back...
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Unread 08-03-2020, 10:50 PM   #39
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I was literally about to place an order for the Raimondi system based on what I've read here when I noticed their Vite system. I originally shied away from any twisting based system not to scratch the marble but then noticed that Raimondi have protective washers for their caps.
I know this is a subjective, and probably discussed to death topic, so here is my specific question:
With the Raimondi Vite, for a 12" x 12", 3/8" thick crema landfill, would you
  1. Place a single (+) strap in between these 4 tiles
  2. Or, one flat (-) strap on each side?
  3. Or, two flat (-) straps on each side?
  4. Forget all that, stick with wedges?
I have only seen one other thread here about the Vite from 2 years ago so figured I'll ask. If you think the wedges based system is better for these tiles, I'll go with that.

Thx!
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Unread 08-04-2020, 07:32 AM   #40
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I used the Spin Doctor system for my master bath project, Dan, including the protective disks. Worked really well I thought, though I have used nothing else to compare that system to. I also used way more of the spacers than I probably needed to, and didn't care at all that I did. Also did not use any of the "combination" spacers - the ones that supposedly will level the corners of 4 adjacent tiles, as having mortar under the corners, instead of a combination of plastic and mortar, just gave me the warm and fuzzies, though I can't confirm those W&F's were rooted in reality.

The spinny caps are the big up front cost of the spinny cap systems. The disks ain't that much, nor are the spacers.
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Unread 08-05-2020, 09:55 PM   #41
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for a 12 x 12 tile, would you recommend using 1 or 2 caps per edge?
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Unread 08-06-2020, 06:32 AM   #42
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Two.
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Unread 08-10-2020, 02:44 PM   #43
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Tub walls tiling order

When using a leveling system it seems like ideally you would tile the entire surface in one go.*

1. For the tub/shower wall sides, for the cut tiles that will butt against the back wall, do you cut them all to size beforehand or run back to the saw and cut them to size after you tiled the non adjacent tiles?* I guess it would only work if the back wall is perfectly level which it may not be...

2. If the tub's surface by the flange is level, is there a reason not to start tiling the first row's cut tiles or is the best practice to always tile off a ledger board?
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Last edited by arnav; 08-10-2020 at 03:40 PM.
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Unread 08-10-2020, 04:31 PM   #44
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If the tub's surface is flat and level, you should be able to start there and not deal with a ledger board. The use of hard wedges versus the more typical soft spacers give you a bit more flexibility and won't compress as you add more courses above it prior to the thinset curing enough to hold the tile from sliding.
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Unread 08-12-2020, 04:23 PM   #45
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I was amazed to see how non-flat / unplumb my cinderblock walls are (e.g. if you have an offending block right in the middle). What's a good strategy to make sure attaching furring strips result in a plumb CBU/tiling surface?

1. Use a rasp, etc' to contour the furring strips to the wall?
2. Shim them?
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