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Unread 09-22-2020, 07:20 PM   #16
cx
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Jim, I really wish you'd listen to Davy. There is absolutely no way I'd ever get as far into a remodel as you have and not replace the shower receptor. That's the part of your bathroom that is most likely to fail and with what you're trying to do to save it I can almost guarantee it will fail if it's not already failed before you've finished tiling it.

Please tear it all out and save yourself a major headache.

After that you can decide on a method to build your new shower and follow that to completion.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-24-2020, 11:04 AM   #17
eokie1
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question about floor tile in 1960 built home

OK, guys, I guess I will go ahead and bust out the floor, and remove old mudbed... there is *another* reason that is probably a VERY good idea.... the drain attaches to a lead pipe, that then attaches to 2" C.I., that then goes into 4" stack where the 2 commodes are mounted back to back. I have a feeling that the 2" cast iron is probably all rusted up and rough inside, and maybe a good candidate to get clogged up down the road.....

not sure if I will shorten the curb, because the left side of it, looking OUT of shower, is blocked by the vanity that I will install, replacing the "hang-on-the-wall" old sink.... originally, they had a 48" or so sliding glass shower door, which I trashed....

THANKS !!
James Jensen
Jacksonville, FL
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Unread 09-24-2020, 04:13 PM   #18
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Laser Level recommends...???

new question, would like to get laser level, never owned one.... would this one be good, for tile layout ??
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQWCL8J

Bosch Model # GLL 40-20 G

THANKS to all for the HELP !!!!
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Unread 09-24-2020, 09:58 PM   #19
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I can't say about that one but I'm sure it would be handy. You still can't beat a good 4 ft level.
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Unread 09-25-2020, 11:43 AM   #20
eokie1
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shower pan DEMO started....

if anyone has any tips, for anything I am not using, please let me know......I don't remember how I demo'd the one up in Ohio, been 10 years ago....!!! I cut a square to start, with diamond blade in angle grinder, beside the shower drain, but that makes WAYYYY too much DUST !!!! I only tried it, because I had it out to SCARIFY (best word ???) the old existing tile OUTside the shower, that I am planning to just tile over, as it is perfectly FLAT, no cracks at all.....
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Unread 09-25-2020, 12:58 PM   #21
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laser level....bought one, for good or bad....ha

I got the Bosch GLL 50, at HD, WITH the hard case, that holds all the parts....apparently they also sell same level, with a little fabric pouch that ONLY holds the level !!! $149.99, could have got cheaper on a-ZON, but I try to use them only as a last resort..... it is RED laser, saw some bad reviews about the green ones...????
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Unread 09-25-2020, 02:22 PM   #22
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TILE SAW chipping last of the cut.....DULL blade ??

I have this little cheapie HarborFreight wet tile saw, that I bought for my last project, in 2010...... still works fine, BUT, at the LAST of the cut, it is chipping out a 1/8" or so sliver...... do I just need new BLADE ????

on my 2010 project, I was just dealing with 4" square tile, and mosaic for the shower floor.....not much experience with BIGGER file...

I could not find any tile I liked at the right price, and size, so I settled on these 12 x 24" from big box, and plan to cut them down to 7 51/64" or as near to that as I can get.....they are 23 1/2" wide.......
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Unread 09-25-2020, 05:25 PM   #23
jadnashua
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Somewhat depends on the style of the saw you have. On some that use a fixed blade and a moving table, if there's wobble in the table or the table isn't well aligned to the blade, as you reach the end of the cut, it can cause those bits to break off as it's using more of the sides of the blade to cut than the outside rim, so it's effectively twisting as it exits, thus the damage. It can also be a factor of how much and how evenly the blade is wetted and how fast you're making the cut.

A wet saw is more grinding the tile to dust (well, a slurry since it's wet!) than what we generally think about cutting wood. The blade interface can get super hot, and it needs to be cooled for longevity and to keep thermal expansion in check.

It might work with a better quality blade or some careful alignment. The motor shaft might allow the blade to wobble, and that can't easily be fixed. There's probably more involved...


What do you actually have for a wetsaw?
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Unread 09-25-2020, 08:00 PM   #24
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Like Jim mentioned, the first thing to do is slow down to a crawl the last inch. You could also dress the blade. I like using a yellow fire brick for doing this. A few passes thru the brick usually helps.
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Unread 09-26-2020, 06:00 AM   #25
eokie1
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TILE SAW chipping last of the cut.....

I have a cheapie from Harbor Freight, cost about $100 or less, I think... it has fixed blade / fixed table. cheesie removable spray guard that goes over the blade.
I had never looked into buying a new blade for it, did not know difference between segmented, turbo, and continuous blades, found this explanation:
https://www.kmstools.com/blog/diamon...ade-guide-101/
so I will get a continuous diamond blade today, at big box store.

THANKS !!!
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Unread 09-26-2020, 06:23 AM   #26
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my cheapie tile saw....

I looked it up, in Quicken, I bought this tile saw at Home Depot, in 2010, for $84.... it is similar to this one, but not this good....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-700X...700Q/305663332
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Unread 09-26-2020, 02:29 PM   #27
eokie1
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bought a NEW tile saw....

bit the bullet, and got a BETTER tile saw....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-9...031S/307346631
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Unread 09-26-2020, 04:58 PM   #28
eokie1
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question about floor tile in 1960 built home

my next quandary, AFTER I demo the old mud bed.....IS: do I buy the Schluter 60" x 38" shower kit.....and the DRAIN thingie, another $70 or $80......

total-----$200+++

OR, just do MUD BED..... at my local Floor & Decor, they have "Goof Proof" shower kit, with PRE-slope, *top* slope, and a plastic curb assembly....... good idea....??? about $100 or so....

Kerdi kit, or Mud bed with plastic slope stuff.....(that is what I did on my ONLY other tile project, in Dayton, OH, back in 2010.....( Oatey shower liner, and other stuff.....)

THANKS !!!!
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Unread 09-26-2020, 05:10 PM   #29
jadnashua
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My preference is to have my waterproofing directly beneath the tile. It also simplifies things as you don't need a separate preslope. Kerdi works fine if you make a mud bed to install it on. That also lets you handle slight discrepancies in size or position of both the drain and problems with level.

It isn't really all that hard to get the slope right without those sticks which also make a weak area in the pan. Basically, pack a level pile around the perimeter, fill in under the drain, then put mud between the two and pack and screed the surface flat between the two using that perimeter pile you packed (use a level and a mallet on top to get it the proper height to the level line) and the rim of the drain.
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Unread 09-26-2020, 06:31 PM   #30
eokie1
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mud bed / pre-slope / schluter.....???

I am unclear what you mean, are you talking putting down that mud bed, and then the kerdi-kit on top of it, or a traditional PVC liner ??? sorry, I am tired.... ha ha
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