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Unread 09-21-2020, 06:21 AM   #136
ss3964spd
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1) No need for a stud perpendicular, or "on the flat", like that, Dan. You only need something there at the apron so you have something to attach the wall board to. IOW, if you removed that perpendicular one, and the finished face of the apron is at 30", then you have 2 or more inches of nothing to attach the wall board to. Beyond that, you need studs in place so that the O/C spacing is not exceeded by the requirements of the of the wall board being used, typically 16".

2) Not entirely sure what you mean, but if you're referring to the how the open channels of the studs face each other, I cannot imagine it matters. Indeed, if you intend to use metal studs for your niche framing that's how you'd want to do it so that you can easily slip your metal horizontal blocking into the channels.

3) No reason you can't do that. Just be certain you have enough slack in the lines so the receptacles end up where you want them.
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Unread 09-21-2020, 06:48 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Beyond that, you need studs in place so that the O/C spacing is not exceeded by the requirements of the of the wall board being used, typically 16".
Than instead of the perpendicular/"on the flat" stud we can just space the studs 12" O/C in the tub area right? Meaning, we don't want to exceed the 16" spacing but closer spacing is ok... Basically any arrangements of studs so that the CBU is supported by at least 3 studs (even though 16" OC is technically enough).
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Unread 09-21-2020, 07:53 AM   #138
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That would be mostly correct, Dan. There is no technical requirement for your wall CBU to be supported by at least three studs, but it's always best practice when feasible. And you must always space the studs such that you don't exceed the 16" on center required by the CBU manufacturer.

As for the facial orientation of the studs, you can face them either way relative to one another as far as I know. It's possible to install horizontal pieces either way, but if you're installing between the open sides of two verticals you don't need to "notch" the ends to leave fastening tabs to go on the outside edges of your verticals, which also makes more bumps in your drywall.

The only orientation issues I recall are from cutting to size from the wrong end of the stud and not having your pre-punched raceway holes align properly. Your electrician will be the first to let you know if you do that, but it can be overcome after the fact.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-21-2020, 05:11 PM   #139
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The penny dropped. I think I know why they put that perpendicular/"on the flat" stud and the actual stud past the tub's apron. I suspect it is to help support a frameless glass shower enclosure...
If you can't use wood, i guess that's the best that you can do...
Granted, for the other full shower (no tub) that I did here, the glass installer did say that just tiles + CBU would have been enough (though I know we usually aim to give them a little more support).
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Unread 09-21-2020, 07:24 PM   #140
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I dry fitted the tub (alcove). It is level length wise, but 1/8" off width wise.
I am assuming it needs to be addressed and if so, what is the best way?
This is a steel tub with a deadening/leveling foam base.

1. SLC?
2. Shims and a mortar base? Originally I wasn't going to put mortar down since the mfr. said it was optional.
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Unread 09-22-2020, 06:37 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
I wasn't going to put mortar down since the mfr. said it was optional.
With the tub being 1/8" out it setting it in mud may no longer be optional.

I wouldn't be thrilled about hanging a glass door from sheet steel studs, and especially one on the flat. Just seems to me there is very little material (20G) for the hinge mounting screws to bite into; maybe one threads' worth, and it seems like it would be easy to over-drive a screw, stripping the hole. You'll have to be sure stainless steel screws designed for sheet metal are used, not wood screws.
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Unread 09-22-2020, 08:16 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
With the tub being 1/8" out it setting it in mud may no longer be optional.
Will do. Thx. Do you trim the shims once the mortar dries (since they will presumably interfere with the floor's CBU)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
I wouldn't be thrilled about hanging a glass door from sheet steel studs, and especially one on the flat
ok, thx. I'll embed a foot or longer 2 x 4 piece at the top and bottom of the metal stud channel so that the glass's enclosure screws have something to bite into.
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Unread 09-22-2020, 08:25 AM   #143
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I'd recommend a full length 2x4 stud behind that steel stud, Dan.
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Unread 09-22-2020, 08:49 AM   #144
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ok, will do.

Do you remove the shims once the mortar dries?
Keep them and trim leaving 1/4" which is presumably the gap we want between the CBU and the apron?
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Unread 09-22-2020, 02:46 PM   #145
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wow, trying to (dry) level the tub is proving challenging.

1. As is, the front sits 1/8" low, the rest is level.
So I was thinking, all that should be required is to lift the apron 1/8".
Wrong.
2. When I do that, i get all level but the back left corner is 1/8" low.
You can clearly see it in relation to the original ledger lines that I drew before shimming

I guess it is twisting on itself.
There is no apron to shim against in the back.

Can I rely on the ledger boards to push that corner up while the mortar cures?
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Unread 09-22-2020, 06:32 PM   #146
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Finally got the tub level (trial fit - no mortar yet) with an extra shim on the left side of the ledger board itself. Is it ok to mortar in like that?
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Unread 09-23-2020, 06:29 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Is it ok to mortar in like that?
I would.
And yes, pull the shims from under the apron once the mortar cures.

Since you are dry-fitting it first to get it juuuust right go ahead and nail those apron shims to the floor so they don't move, and mark a line on them where apron hits. Then remove the tub, plop down the mortar, install tub. You'll be trying to smoosh the tub into place and it'll be nice to know the apron is where it's 'spose to be at a glance, and without questioning if the shims moved.
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Unread 09-25-2020, 05:02 PM   #148
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behind the tub spout and valve there is the laundry machine 2" PVC drain.
Can the drop ear and valve support touch this PVC drain or better not to?
If I use a 1x4 I have 1/4" clearance from it. 5/4" touches the PVC.

Presumably its better nothing touches the pipe?
This is still the old pipes you see.

Have a great weekend!
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Unread 09-25-2020, 09:20 PM   #149
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No reason I'm aware of that would prohibit contact there, Dan. You could even strap the pipe to the new support if you wanted.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-26-2020, 07:45 AM   #150
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Only reason I can think to not having them touch is vibration, and expansion/contraction induced sound. As the machines run they might cause enough vibration in the PVC pipe against the blocking to make noise, and/or when the washer drains warm/hot water into the PVC pipe it might expand, then contract enough to make noise against the wood.

How how that theory plays out in the real world is anyone's guess.

If they do touch, strap the PVC to the blocking.
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