Rich & Kim's Bathroom Remodel w/pics

[Racer X]

Hey gang,

We're remodeling a full bath and I'll have a few Q's along the way for you pro's. Instead of jumpin all over the place, let's focus the first set of questions on the install of a cast iron bath tub and all the cool plumbing goes with it. with me?

I'll start with a few minor details pertaining to phase-1:
Bathroom Specs
~ Bathroom measures 8'x8'
~ 12"h. prefab I-joists 16" on center
~ 3/4" subfloor
Installing
~ 14"h.x30"w.x60"L. Kohler (RH) cast iron tub 325lbs.
~ Watts brass waste drain kit
~ 25"x16" wall access panel
~ Hot & cold shut off ball valves
~ American Standard spout, head, valve handle assembly
~ Vapor barrier maybe 4-mil poly
~ DuRock Cement board (CBU)

Q's:
1. Do I need to place metal plates under all four feet to distribute the weight of the tub? or use only when shimming is needed?
2. Can I use metal electrical box covers as shims?
3. How do I attach and stabilize this cast iron tub in the alcove? Do I nail along the rim? or should I just sit the DuRock on the tub's rim then screw to the studs to lock the tub into place?
4. Do I need to seat the tub in a pool of mortar? I may know this one already.
5. Installing the entire drain assembly is done after the tub is in place... correct?
6. Are there any general code violations with installing the on/off valve fixture up from 28" to 40"ish? or is installing fixtures personal preference?
7. I may use 4-Mil poly vapor barrier, I know it goes behind all of the CBU. Do I also attach to the studs behind the tub too?
8. Is Regard a better barrier than 4-mil poly? recommended?
9. When the CBU is installed in the alcove, there will be a thin strip on the right hand wall (3"x80"ish) where the bullnose tile ends. This will have to be prepared for paint. Can I apply joint compound to this exposed CBU to make it smooth?

Here a some pics for you to get a better visual. BTW/it's good to be back after, oh... I dunno, a year! We've been busy having twin boys so this project got put on the back burner in order to remodel the nursery, guest bedroom, and some other neat-o stuff. Luckily joint compound goes over cobwebs no problem.

[Racer X]

Sry, I know 9 questions may be a lot to start with but I promise to post more pics if anyone like to take a shot.

[Marge]

Rich, you promised more pictures...we'll get you some help..guaranteed!

[cx]

Rich, if you didn't get installation instructions with the tub, I suggest you go to the Kholer website and find your tub there. It's always a good idea to install the product the way the manufacturer recommends, eh?

1. Metal shims are usually specified if leveling is required. I generally use lead.

2. Guess you could.

3. See preamble. I generally don't attach the rim at all on a cast iron tub.

4. See preamble. I don't.

5. See preamble (I see a pattern developing here). I generally do.

6. Dealer's choice. I know of no code nor standard requirement.

7. It doesn't go behind the tub, it must lap over the tub flange to the inside.

8. Depends upon how you want to do the installation. They are different systems.

9. If it's completely outside the wet area, yes. But if you're talking about a "tub leg," where the tile goes to the floor adjacent to the tub, you really don't want any sheetrock mud there. That's outside the tub, but a frequently wet area and one of the first points of failure in a tub/shower installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Hmmmm. Don't know why The Girl didn't just answer your questions while she was here. Coulda saved us a lotta time, eh?

[Marge]

Alrighty then...where are the new pictures?

[Tool Guy - Kg]

CX has ya covered.

But I do see one problem on yer drawing. Yer bathroom door isn't gonna close...it's too wide.

[BillMelvin]

Seems like 2 sinks on a 5' vanity isn't going to leave much counter top space. Have you checked the measurements of the sinks to see how much actual room you'll have? Of course if you had 2 sinks there before then you already know it will work.

I'm just a homeowner, so I don't know very much.

[Marge]

Rich, it's been 24 hours...no new pictures?

[Racer X]

Rich, if you didn't get installation instructions with the tub, I suggest you go to the Kholer website and find your tub there. It's always a good idea to install the product the way the manufacturer recommends

CX, Thanks for your reply...

Somehow I knew this was coming. Yes, I always follow the directions but they are missing so I went to Kohler's web sight and thumbed thru all of the PDF's to find barely anything useful. I will have to go back to HD and read the directions off of another tub (same model of course). Here's a follow up to your answers:
1. Where can I buy lead shims?
3. What locks the tub in place, shear weight? and maybe the fact that I'm adding another 1/2" sub floor, Ditra then tile in front of the tub so the tub really can't move forward. right?
7. The lip of the tub is very thick and very short. Do you use caulk er something to keep the vapor barrier from falling to the rear of the tub?
9. There will be a tub-leg tile up against the tub, but outside of that, can I just carry the CBU to the corner? Or are you saying its better to place a thin strip of drywall and mud only where the tile isn't being applied? because mud sticks to drywall better... here, let me illustrate....

[Racer X]

Rich, it's been 24 hours...no new pictures?

Marge,
lol... I'll get the birthday girl some pics but they might be of my black lab er something.

Its good to be back.

Seems like 2 sinks on a 5' vanity isn't going to leave much counter top space

Bill,
the 2 sinks were already there... I'm just re-doing them wit new ones!

[Marge]

It MIGHT be a Black Lab? Who needs tile pictures when Black Labbies are available? Fer cyryin' out loud...pose them somewhere in the remodel area and take some pictures.

Sometimes they want to use the new shower too.

[cx]

1. I know of no place. I use scraps from terlit drain risers after we cut'em off above grade. Good for lotsa stuff.

3. Gravity

7. Let the poly run long, like a foot down into the tub, after you pewt your CBU up, trim the poly at the bottom of the CBU, which will be just 1/8th to 1/4 inch above the tub deck. It'll stay there.

9. I'd carry the CBU past the edge of the tub at least as far as you're fixin' to tile. If it's more convenient to go alla way to that corner, I'd do that. It's plenty easy to use sheetrock mud over the CBU where you need to finish it to match the rest of your walls.

Take out the dog before tryin' to tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Tony1M]

"............................
3. What locks the tub in place, shear weight? and maybe the fact that I'm adding another 1/2" sub floor, Ditra then tile in front of the tub so the tub really can't move forward. right?
...................................."

Around the top "wall" edge of a typical steel tub, the sheet steel of the tub turns upward and inch, or inch and a half, against the wall, where it can eventually be hidden under the tile or plastic panel that will be put on the walls (The steel edge against the wall is pretty thin gauge steel.) That steel edge has horizontal slots cut in it, some of which will no doubt be positioned over many of the wall studs. Screws or nails are driven through the slots in the steel edge and into the studs, thereby securing the two short (end) edges, and the long (back, or wall) edge, of the tub to the walls surrounding the tub on three sides. With all those screws doing their job, there is no way that the front (floor) edge, or any other part of the tub, for that matter, is going anywhere fast. In short, it is held very securely in position even before anything is put on the bathroom floor next to it.

[cx]

Rich (RacerX) is not using a steel tub, Tony, he's got a cast iron variety.

[Racer X]

Yes, I have a Kohler Villager 14"h. cast iron tub. The last 2 bath tubs that I've dealt with were steel and they were secured to the studs of the wall with nails along the thin top lip that Tony has mentioned. This is why I have Q's about the cast iron type. Just wanna be sure before I permanently install...

I called Kohler today (nice people) just to confirm. The first gal just re-read me the directions I already had (which are vague). The directions also don't say what you cannot do- which sometimes is just as important. Then I gotta tech on the line and he confirmed - no brackets, clips or nails required to secure. the tub is put in place and the walls & floor are finished around it. As far as load requirements.... The "ruff-in guide" says 48 lbs/sq ft. I asked how I can possibly test my floor to see if it passes? He asked what I have and I told him 3/4" ply subfloor on 12"h. fabricated I-joists. He put me on hold then came back and told me that will be fine. So I'm good to go.

I'll finish up and now lets get on to the fun tiling stuff. Thanks for checkin up on me CX. I may have more Q's later.