Bathroom leak/remodel with PICS

[am350z]

I have been lurking for a bit but have decided to remodel a bathroom and would appreciate any suggestions and recommendations.

My spare bathroom developed a leak and I now have water stains on the ceiling of my living room. I suspect the leak is a poorly caulked joint b/w floor and tub. I plan to remove linoleum, inspect and put in new ceramic. This is a second floor, 3/4 plywood subfloor. I know I will need to put down backerboard. The room is small, 68x56 so I plan on 6 inch ceramic tile, possibly stone. I will remove and replace toilet and remove but reinstall cabinet with new countertop.

Questions:

1. Is there a toilet flange extension for the new height? EDIT: Nevermind, I guess you just replace the flange.
2. I have searched for info on thresholds here and looked at local stores but am still unsure how to transition to the carpet since the tile will now be higher.

I will probably use the Kohler Cimmaron or Memoirs toilet. Counter I hope to get one of the $199 granite cheapies from HD and upgrade fixtures and put new pulls on cabinets. We will move in 2 years so I don't want to break the bank. And I guess I will have to rip out the living room ceiling, the tape is bulged.

Any suggestions? Here are some photos.

[Davestone]

Check with the deflecto above..yes they make flange extensions..i usually mud up a few feet from the doorway to bring the carpet up to height, or use some shim shingles.

[cx]

Welcome, am350z. Please give us a first name to use, preferably in a permanent signature line.

1,2. What Stoner said.

That ceiling is repairable.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[am350z]

So you mud under the carpet area to make a ramp? Anyone use any of the Schluter reno transition products?

As for the flange, should I just replace it?

Should I use the schluter ditra, hardibacker or generic cementboard from HD? Is it just personal preference?

Final question, is the premixed thin set okay to use? It is more expensive but would be much more convenient since the area is so small. I have a 10% HD coupon that expires today so I am trying to get everything I need, except tile, not a very good selection!

[Crestone Tile]

Hi,

Don't use the mastic (premixed), especially if your going to use Ditra. If you can go with Ditra, that's the choice I would make. There's nothing wrong with CBU though ... I'm guessing that you can get both Hardi and WonderBoard at your local HD. Did you check your deflection? I saw you mention that you might use stone.

[am350z]

Have not checked deflection yet as I do not know my joist structure. However, I am doubtful I will be able to use stone as I do get squeaking upstairs when walking. The house is only 6 years old but not sure about construction quality!

As for the premix, I was looking at the simple set brand premixed thinset. I would post a link but it wont let me.
It looks like thin set not mastic, correct?

[ceramictec]

premixed thinset, mastic...there both the same to an extent that they have an additive that makes the bucket life able to happen for a long time. so without air getting into the bucket it won't dry.......no air can also get under the impervious Ditra, so you'll have big problems and it never drying.

[am350z]

Gotcha. Great too know and it will save me a few bucks! Does subfloor creaking indicate I may have problem with all tile installations?

[TCoggins]

Might as well throw my 2 cent's worth in as well. Regarding raising the toilet flange, I typically have to replace some rotted plywood around the toilet flange, due to leakage and/or condensation.

What I typically plan on doing is cutting the existing flange off, and extending the PVC pipe up through the floor. Tile around the new pipe coming up. Then, when finshed tiling, cut the pipe off and glue a new flange in place, with the flange siting directly on the tile. No need for extra thick wax rings or a build up of extender rings.

For what it's worth.

Tim

[am350z]

Got it. Thanks.

Now, I have linoleum. Not sure if it is under the cabinet but if not I will pull it up so the floor is level. Otherwise, can I leave it? The subfloor is plywood. Will versabond or flexbond thinsets work for both subfloor/lineoluem->hardie and Hardie-tile adhesion?

[am350z]

Another question.

I removed the baseboards and just realized the subfloor is actually OSB with a 1/4 layer of plywood. It does not extend under the cabinet. Should I

1. Rip up the linoleum and plywood, remove cabinet and put down the hardiebacker

2. Remove linoleum, put in hardie, and tile around cabinet

or

3. Remove linoleum and cabinet, put in new 1/4 ply where the cabinet is to bring that corner to level, then hardiebacker.

I am so confused!!

[am350z]

In addition, there is a small amount of mold adjacent to the tub, confirming my suspicion that this is site of the leak.

Edit: extent of damage to 1/4" plywood

[am350z]

Well I have ripped out the linoleum and luan and cleaned and treated mold. No damage to OSB subfloor. I have also cut the Ditra to size and have experimented with consistency of the versabond. Tile is being shipped tommorrow. We decided on a 14 inch even though we may have been better with smaller!

Question 1: Since the tile is 14 inch, is it preferential to trim the 5.25 inches off the first and last row or start with full tile and end with a row of tile only 3.5 inches (assuming standard layout)? That last row would be largely hidden by the cabinet pictured above and behind toilet so it would be minimally noticable. I thought about diagonal but I think it may be too complicated, particularly around the door and alot of work for a small space.

2. The length of the room is 6 ft plus a few inches for door. That creates a problem as 6 tiles with 1/8 inch grout line comes out to 70 5/8. What should I do for the last 1 3/8? Any layout suggestions much appreciated!!!!

[chuck stevenson]

Chris,

Best to trim equal off the first and last row of tiles, rather than a "skinny" at one end.

[am350z]

Great, thanks. Here is an extremely crude floor layout to see what you guys think.