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05-03-2006, 07:47 PM
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#1
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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I need some suggestions.
Guys this is the situation I have in my house I have renovated my kitchen and now I am at the point where I have to lay the tile. These pics are from my kitchen going down to my den, I have about 3/16th of a lip where the brick start, what should I do when I get there to lay my tile.
Thanks, Gary
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Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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05-03-2006, 07:56 PM
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#2
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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I guess 1/4" cbu wasn't an option on the floor, eh?
I'd make a tapered threshold out of wood in the jamb to lower the new tile surface down to the existing brick. A table saw or a thickness planer with a tilted sled will make the tapered threshold in a snap.
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05-03-2006, 08:05 PM
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#3
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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Tool guy, Yeah 1/4" was not an option, I have also thought about what you said about the tapered piece of wood. I was hoping for another bright idea, but I am not coming up with one though.
Thanks for you help.
Gary
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Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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05-03-2006, 08:12 PM
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#4
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Arkansas Tile Man -- Retailer
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Mountain Home, AR
Posts: 402
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Hey Gary, If the tile your laying in the kitchen has a surface bull nose option, how about using them along the brick edge?
Danny
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Loving what you do is not a job.
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05-03-2006, 08:12 PM
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#5
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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Tapered piece of stone? Run that through the planer.....but not mine.
If you replace the last bit of 1/2" with 1/4", you could taper the last row of tiles. Only problem with that is that there is no visual acuity to the taper. It blends in so well that it might be the perfect spot for everyone to trip on.
So instead, can you replace the last piece of 1/2" you have with 1/4" so you can stretch the taper out over a greater distance? You need basically the tile tapered down about the thickness of the tile, so that might be an idea for you. Get some medium bed mortar and get to it man!
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05-03-2006, 08:16 PM
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#6
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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Danny, I don't have that option either. Thanks though.
Tool Guy, I have seriously thought about the 1/4 cbu taper option, I just don't know though.
Gary
__________________
Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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05-03-2006, 08:17 PM
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#7
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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One tough customer!  Demo the brick and run the tile into the Den?
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05-03-2006, 08:26 PM
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#8
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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I can't do that either, the steps are three high and it is all brick work, it wouldn't look right.
Thanks for the suggestions so far guys.
__________________
Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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05-03-2006, 08:29 PM
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#9
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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If the brick is that solid.....
What about building up the cbu in the kitchen 3/16" to match the height of the finished brick, and tiling out onto the top of the brick? Then stop the tile with a bent piece of metal, or custom made wood? It would take a pile of time to cut the tiles just right around the curve, but it would look nice running the tile onto the top of that landing from the kitchen. Me thinks, anyway. MegaLite might be a good choice of mortar here. You'd have to honor the joint in the door of course.
Whaddaya think? ...or you already thought of it.....
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05-03-2006, 08:33 PM
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#10
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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Yeah I thought of that also, but then it screws me up on the other side going into my dining room.
I got all the problems don't I.
__________________
Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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05-03-2006, 08:34 PM
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#11
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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I didn't see no steeenkin dining room in that picher!
Ok, this is it. It's all I got. Pop the top layer of bricks and re-set them back down ever so slightly higher so the kitchen tile butts into them. Then taper them back down as you move away from the transition.
If that doesn't work, I'm gonna wreck-a-mend pergo pretty soon.
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05-03-2006, 08:37 PM
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#12
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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I couldn't put everything in the pic. I will hopefully come up with something. I am leaning toward that 1/4 cbu taper .
Gary
__________________
Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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05-03-2006, 08:38 PM
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#13
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Flooring Contractor -- Las Vegas
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 500
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A threshold/transition strip sounds like the only option? If you can't do any of the other suggestions, then that is it.
__________________
Ramon
"If you don't have the time to do something right, where are you going to find the time to fix it?
Stephen King
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05-03-2006, 08:43 PM
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#14
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Bucket abuser
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wildomar Ca
Posts: 9,177
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How about taking up a couple 2 or 3 feet of subfloor and planing the joists
the amount you need to get flush? A 1/4" drop shouldnt effect the strength
much  Ill just sit back and try to be quite before the engineers smack me
for that suggestion.
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05-03-2006, 08:43 PM
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#15
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,017
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Ramon,
That is my second choice a custom made strip of some sort, I really don't want to use wood. I would rather something in stone or marble. I would just have to cut and taper it. I think that would be easier than the 1/4 " CBU taper that tool guy was talking about but I don't think it would look as clean though.
Gary
__________________
Picking them up and putting them down.
Gary
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