Kitchen Reno

[gcc]

So a couple questions…

1. There are only two things I am hiring out for on this kitchen Reno. One is the Countertops, the other was having a company come and take out the 800nsq ft of tile in a “dustless” scenario. So they came - very nice people, not “dustless” but minimal dust. Eveything was going great until they saw how much thinset was under the tiles. At first the crew leader told me about it and said “there may be an up charge.” Then later he same back and said between all the redgaurd and the thickness, they were going to grind the tile down so I could use self leveler on it. Said they wouldn’t be able to grind all of that down.

But now I am thinking - should it have been their responsibility to have taken that down to the slab? I
I mean, it is what I paid for. They still charged me full
Price. When I emailed and asked for them to come back out the owner called and said that the thinset was rock solid - “harder than your slab” and it won’t be a problem, but if I wanted them to come back it would be another $500 on top
Of the $2600 I paid to have it done. I dunno - I feel like I got cheated on this one. In all fairness, I wouldn’t expect an inch of thinset under tiles, but then again, they could’ve have chipped it out like I did and then just grinded what was left, so why would that matter!


Anyway -

2. I spent all day on that machine - what a beating. 9am to 12:30 Am!! Lol it’s not done but it is close enough to where I can use my chipping hammer for what is left and my grinder - which will take forever. I noticed the tile Installers covered all these gaps in the slab with fabric and red guard…



Do I have to re- red guard that before patching or pouring self leveler over it? Looks like an intentional break or cut in the slab.

3. I will try to patch what I can but i am
pretty sure i will need to pour something over it to make it flat and level. More concerned about flat. But there are whole sections of the slab now that are gouged out. (Oops)

Since this leveler would have to be in multiple rooms
connected by different hallways / is this even reasonable? Any way to do one room at a time? Not everywhere needs it, but since all the rooms are connected and will have the same flooring, I was t sure how to handle that.

Thanks,
Greg


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[gcc]

Hi all,

Poured the self leveling cement over 800 sq ft today. Really cool process - whish I could do it again now that I’ve done it as I would say 90% of the issues are gone, but I still have some. I created some since this was my first time.

Most of it is smooth and flat and level but I do have some areas I messed up and there are some valleys.

Should I use some patch to fill in any valleys so they are flush?


Also - i messed this one up pretty badly:



It was already too dried when I tried using a spiked roller and it tore it up, so I tried pouring more in it and ended up with this. Can I sand down that edge or?

Expanded view:



That edge is the worst part. As bad as the rest of that looks, it is fairly flat and smooth.

Thanks,
Greg


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[gcc]

Hi all,

Reno is moving along - as part of the project we had to take out about 7 plank tiles along a wall in an adjacent room so there would be a good transition between new and old floor. I need to replace those with tiles I saved - but I also have to do a backsplash in the kitchen. I’ve read that it is fine to use mastic on a backsplash, and it certainly is easier than mixing thinset mortar / but - can I use it to replace those floor tiles as well? Or is it better to just buy a bag of thinset and mix as much as needed for each project?


Thanks,
Greg


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[cx]

I wouldn't use it on those floor tiles, Greg. Most (all?) manufacturer's of organic adhesives (mastic) have maximum size recommendations for their products. Frequently in the 8x8-inch range, but some larger. You may, of course, use it if you wanna.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[gcc]

I trust ya, CX. Never steered me wrong before.

I do have a few more questions though…

The backsplash is roughly about 45 sq ft. The tiles are one row of plank tiles - 8 tiles - 6” x 24”.

Getting the tiles for the backsplash at Floor and Decor. Was going to pick up the thinset mortar while there. They carry Mapei Ker-111, Keraflor, and then LFT mortars from Mapei.

1. Are any those mortars ok for both the floor tiles and backsplah or should I take a trip to HD and pick up some Versabond? Or any other recommendations?

2. Do the tiles on the backsplash need to be back buttered or can I spread the thinset on the wall and start putting the tiles on? I always backbuttered in the showers I have done to get maximum coverage cause it was a wet area. Not that I don’t want good coverage here, just don’t know if it is necessary to take the extra time.

Thanks!

Greg


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[cx]

1. The Ker111 might be, but I've never heard of it. I suspect it's one of MAPEI's other modified mortars branded for Lowe's. I would not use the Kerafloor. I would be most likely to use Versabond because that's what's available to me.

2. It's always a good idea to key-in mortar to the back of those larger tiles. Back-buttering shouldn't be necessary if both the tiles and substrate are flat.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[gcc]

The backsplash tiles are 3 x 12. Tiles aren’t perfectly flat and my wall isn’t for sure, but I’m trying to imagine back buttering those and not making a mess.

Decided not to mess with the undercabinet range hood and have that installed. Big mistake. Long story short but it looks like the installer drilled down through the top of the hood from inside the cabinet above and one of the screws went through one of the vent fans, so it won’t turn. Trying to sort it out with the install company….but, it made me wonder…it is an indercabinet hood…should I have put the backsplash in first so it ran up behind the hood or does it matter? It would not have changed the look of anything, but what is normal? I haven’t started eh backsplash yet but if this hood has to come out I am wondering if I should wait til then and tile up to the bottom of the cabinet.

Thanks,
Greg


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[ss3964spd]

Functionally it doesn't matter if the tile runs behind the hood or not. But IMO it looks better with the tile behind since you then don't need to some how finish the edge of the tile. If you caulk the edge the caulk is going to get icky and be hard to clean the grease off.

I'd be a bit worried about the screw through the fan. May cause an imbalance which will make the fan vibrate, shaking the entire assembly.

[gcc]

Thanks. The fan won’t turn at all since it is screwed in. It’s aggravating. They have to come out and replace the unit or fix it. Who knows if the motor is burnt out since we’ve run it sparingly and that fan was not turning.

If they have to replace the whole unit I will take it down and tile before they put a new one in.

I appreciate if.

Greg


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[gcc]

So made a mistake and don’t cut out a notch for that bottom screw hole. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Greg


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[cx]

Yes, cut a grove for the bottom screw hole, Greg.

A Vee notch with an angle grinder should do fine. Maybe need to clean up with a small chisel. Maybe not.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Davy]

A Dremel works great for that. Those need to be cut just outside the screw hole but not too much. If you hold a receptacle over the box you'll see what I mean. The ears on the receptacle needs to go against the tile.

[gcc]

Originally Posted by cx

Yes, cut a grove for the bottom screw hole, Greg.

A Vee notch with an angle grinder should do fine. Maybe need to clean up with a small chisel. Maybe not.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Lol - yeah, I knew I needed to cut a groove - just wasn’t sure how to do it without causing damage to tile or box. The angle grinder feels too big to use with the grinder wheel. Is there a special attachment?? Even my 4” wheel seems too big.

[emoji4]


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[ss3964spd]

Like Davy said, a Dremel would be the tool of choice for that.

But if you don't have one, and would rather not buy one, you might be able to poke at it with a nail punch and hammer. Hold the punch at, say, a 45* angle and start at the back edge of the tile, chipping out little bits as you move forward.

Might work, but might not. A Dermel with appropriate bit definitely would work. No way I'd attempt it with an angle grinder.

[cx]

Originally Posted by Dan

No way I'd attempt it with an angle grinder.

Buncha pus.... whimps! Wouldn't take but a touch.

But If I had a Dremmel, and if I had a proper bit for it, I'd probably try that. Most likely, for that little bit of hole in that soft tile, I'd use a gentle touch with a small cold chisel. Which I would have readily at hand.