My First Bathroom Remodel (with pics)

[cx]

In addition to Dan's advice, if you were to use that MR Board on your ceiling in the half-inch thickness, you must reduce the joist spacing to 12" on center or less. If you use half-inch regular drywall, the maximum spacing is 16" on center. I have always used 5/8ths" drywall on all my ceilings regardless the joist spacing, but you can got as far as 24" on center with that.

And I agree with Dan that there is no advantage at all to the use of MR Board in a properly vented bathroom.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[RifRaf]

Dan and CX, Thank you for the advice!

I do have a ceiling fan in this bathroom... and plan to upgrade the ceiling fan to the Panasonic FV-0811RQ1 (80/100 cfm flow) during the bathroom remodel. The new ceiling fan should provide plenty of air flow for this small size bathroom. Venting will be routed to an exterior soffit.

I thought regular drywall (outside of the wet area) would be ok in this bathroom... but while I was doing my research, I did see some recommendations for the MR drywall.
I did look up the spec sheet for the MR drywall I had linked in my previous post (USG Mold Tough Drywall). These USG MR are not the "Greenboard" panels of the past and can installed as shown below.

My ceiling joist are 16" o.c. and I do plan to install the ceiling drywall perpendicular to the ceiling joist.

Dan, on a side note...
Based on your username and avatar, it appears you have/had a 1966 Imapla Convertible?? If so,

[cx]

And that was for their half-inch panels, Mike? If so, I'll mark that down as the something new I learnt today.

I still wouldn't bother with the MR Board, but that's entirely up to you.

[ss3964spd]

Solid choice on the exhaust fan, Mike, those Panasonic's - while a bit pricy, are really well built and quiet. I used models with DC motors in 3 different bathrooms, love 'em.

Just a DIY'er here. When I took down the plain white 1/2" ceiling drywall in my two bathrooms there were no mold issues at all after 40 some years. What I did find was it sagged between the trusses - but they're at 24" OC, and there was also insulation on top, and crappy fans. So I just installed blocking between the trusses to tighten up the spacing. If USG is saying 16" OC is fine for that product I'd certainly want to take them at their word.

Good eye, many assume it's a Chevelle. Original triple black, big block, 4 speed car. Lots of neat options, but sadly A/C isn't among them.

[cx]

Geeeez, Dan, even my 49 Ford pickup has air conditioning. I had to add that, of course, but still...........

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by CX

And that was for their half-inch panels, Mike?

Yes... the installation spec was for the half-inch thick MR panel. I attached a link for the USG 1/2" Mold Tough Panel below (you have to click on the "Submittal Sheet" to view the product's installation specs I previously posted.
https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/e...gh.143021.html

P.S. Not to change the subject, but since CX mentioned his his 49 Ford and Dan has an awesome big block Impala... I just wanted to let you know I am a "car guy" too!
Below is my 1974 Nova Custom (but also without air conditioning )

[cx]

Your thread, Mike, you get to change the subject whenever you like.

Full disclosure: My beloved ol' 49 Ford truck has been parked out in the desert in New Mexico for 30 years or more. But it was cool once!

And I wish I could put it back on the road again, just for fun.

[ss3964spd]

"But it I was cool once!"

Fixed it for ya.

Nice Nova, Mike, Don't see many 74's out there. Heck, don't see many Nova's for that matter. The Z/28 style hood is a nice touch - have always liked those. Steel or 'glass?

The Impala - AKA Metal Mistress, not on its finest day. Was the first time it ever left me stranded, but not the last. Two more flat bed rides before I properly sorted the ignition issue.

[RifRaf]

Thanks Dan! This Nova is the first car I bought in 1980 while in High School.
The hood is fiberglass (but if I had to do it again, I would have gone with a steel version).

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Two more flat bed rides before I properly sorted the ignition issue.

Been there... Done that. I now run a modified GM HEI and keep a spare module and coil in my glove box (just in case).

I have a quick update to the bathroom flooring.
It seems that when the house was built, a small section of one of the floor joists was gouged-out to make room for the toilet waste pipe. The gouge was about 3 ½” wide x 3” deep.


It was bothering me to leave it this way, so I installed a 4-foot section of 2x6 onto the opposite side of he floor joist that had been gouged. You can also see the blocking that was installed along the plywood panel end seems.

I am thinking about leaving this small section of plywood panel unscrewed into the joist for now… as it provides an easy access for fitting and installing the PVC toilet drain pipe from above.

[cx]

Been called a lotta things in my career, Dan, but I don't believe cool was ever on of'em.

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by CX

Been called a lotta things in my career, Dan, but I don't believe cool was ever one of'em.

Well... let me be the first to say that I think you're pretty cool by providing a lot of excellent advise to soooo many people reading this forum

I understand this is a Tile Forum... and I hope some of my updates (that are not tile related) are not boring readers. I just thought it would be fun to document the entire process for remodeling my bathroom and include the items that I needed to change.

I decided to remove and update all of the existing copper water plumbing since it was almost 60 years old and showing signs of weak spots/leaks (and some questionable repairs… done by me). I’m installing CPVC in its place.


I am also moving and updating items for a planned future basement remodel that will include a new bathroom (and the 1st level bathroom I am currently working on is part of the part of this process). Part of that plan was moving the water heater from its current location (where a future shower will be located) to am empty corner on the other side of the same room.


While relocating and re-plumbing the water heater, I also split the water pipes into “Zones”… that control different sections to the house. Now, each bathroom’s main hot and cold water pipes has its own shut-off valve. This way, I can independently shut off the water to either one of the bathrooms (for any repairs) without having to turn off the water to the entire house. I also installed shut-off valves for the kitchen plumbing and the future basement bathroom.

• I understand that there are individual shut-off valves for sinks and toilets, but half the time it seemed that the item that needed to be repaired/replaced was one of these independent sink/toilet valves or a shower/tub control valve… and that required me to shut the water off to the entire house.

[ss3964spd]

Those builder grade fixture stop valves were the worst, especially the plastic stemmed ones. All mine have been replaced over the years with 1/4 turn ball valves.

Re your water heater relocation - are expansion tanks not required in your location?

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Re your water heater relocation - are expansion tanks not required in your location?

ss3964spd, Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

I am on well water and have a pressure holding tank. I thought that any increase in water pressure that may be caused by the water heater would be absorbed by the holding tank.

Is my current set-up ok?... or do you recommend that I also install an expansion tank to the cold water supply line by the water heater?

[ss3964spd]

I dunno, Mike, no idea if a holding tank serves the same purpose as an expansion tank.

Those expansion tanks, usually 1 to 2 gallons in size, have a bladder inside and is pressurized with air. If your holding tank is also pressurized with air then I'd think you wouldn't need a separate expansion tank.

Don't really know much about well water systems. Best to check with someone who does.

[RifRaf]

Dan, I have a WelXTrol 22 gal pressurized holding tank connected to the cold water supply line. It is a steel tank with an air pressurized bladder. It seems that my holding tank works just like an expansion tank... but has a lot more capacity.

I also did a Google search for "Water Heater Expansion Tank Requirements in Maryland" and found the following info - See EXCEPTION (2) below.

10.15.7 Thermal Expansion Control
a. Where a water pressure regulator (with or without an internal thermal expansion bypass), a backflow preventer, or a check valve is installed such that a closed system is created between hot water heating equipment and the incoming water service, a thermal expansion tank shall be provided.

EXCEPTIONS: (1) Instantaneous water heaters. (2) Well systems with water pressure tanks.

Looks like I'm okay with my current water heater set-up... but again, I do appreciate you noticing this and bringing it to my attention. That is one of the reasons I try to post several photos of my project... as I may miss/forget something that someone else will notice.