Critique my Curbless Shower/Bathroom Layout

[ceramictec]

John....


The JAMO Family
Because Jamo is part of the Custom® Building Products family,
our product line is broader than ever.

[Trask]

I asked about Kerdi~Set last year and the folks at Schluter basically said they had issues and it was on hold ..Possibly forever.

Never used it but have considered it for Kerdi and back when I wanted to wet set tile.

[grymes56]

The guy at my favorite local tile store was able to help me out. He is ordering 3 bags of Super-Tek Unsanded Thinset for me. I had actually never heard of Super-Tek - they are a local NY company it turns out. Anyone have any experience with Super-Tek products?

Here is a link to the data sheet:

http://www.super-tek.com/pdfs/WallMix.pdf

It mentions not using it on CBU. I assume because they fear it will absorb too much water from the thinset? I dont have CBU on the walls (they are DensArmor Plus fiberglass drywall) - but I WILL have a mud floor. Do you guys who have used unsanded before think it is OK to use over a cured mud floor? Should I wet the mud with a sponge first?

[gueuzeman]

2. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Unsanded Portland cement thin-set mortar for the interior installation of 4 1/4" x 4 1/4" absorptive body
ceramic tile.
· High bond strength
· Non-sag formula
· Exceeds ANSI A118.1
3. INSTALLATION
APPROVED SUBSTRATES: Properly prepared concrete, concrete block, plumb and true masonry, and
gypsum board.
DO NOT USE OVER: Hardwood, plywood, existing tile, cement backer board, masonite, chipboard, flakeboard,
presswood, asbestos board, vinyl flooring, luan plywood, OSB, metal, gypsum based levelers, glass,
plastic or other similarly unstable substrates.
PLEASE NOTE: Use only for the installation of 4 1/4" x 4 1/4" absorptive body ceramic tile. For the installation
of tiles larger than 4 1/4" x 4 1/4", use one of
Super-Tek's other quality thin-set mortars.

-=---------------------

OK to use on masonry but not backerboard? Confused, as usual.

.

[grymes56]

well I'm not expecting them to list "for applying Schluter Kerdi" in their list of uses on their data sheet - but yeah the CBU thing is odd to me

[grymes56]

I am working on a curbless shower project and will be getting my frameless glass shipped from Wilson Glass in CA. I spoke with them about my intended installation method - and they approved. I Already have the 1/2" U-Channel in hand, and want to install it directly to the Kerdi so that I can tile up to it on both sides - essentially burying it in the tile. I hope this will make for a very clean look.

The door will consist of a straight 60'' wide opening, with a 6" wide fixed panel, a 24" door hinged off of that panel, and then another 30" wide fixed panel. 4 pieces of u-channel are needed - a piece for each wall and a 30" segment along the floor, then a 24" gap and the 6" segment on the floor touching the opposite wall.

This complicates layout though - because I need to make ABSOLUTELY sure that the U-Channel for the two panels are co-planar so that everything lines up when the glass arrives. I wont have any adjustability for out-of plane once the u-channel is set.

What type of laser (or other tool) would you recommend for establishing a single plane across a 5' wide opening - down one wall, across the floor, and then up the other wall?

[cx]

You should be able to lay that out quite effectively with a long level and a five-foot straight-edge, Kyle.

[dhagin]

All you need is a level, or 2 depending on lengths. You need to give yourself some adjustment/expansion room by allowing a little more than the width of the u-channel. An 1/8 over isn't too much. Glass needs room to move...

... don't rush and you'll be fine.

[JC]

Laser will work but it would just basically be a waste of time on that project and not as accurate since the laser line is about an 1/8 inch wide compared to a pencil line..just measure how far out from the straightest wall(hopefully outside wall at the back of the shower)draw your line, then use a good level and come up both side walls and then connect the to points to get your ceiling line.

Remember to test your level for accuracy first though...you do this by making a level line then flip over the level and make sure it reads the same...don't assume.

[Houston Remodeler]

I love my laser. I think its the perfect tool for this job. A rotary laser will give you a perfectly plumb lines up the walls and across the floor and ceiling. All matching perfectly.

Yes the laser line is thicker than a pencil line, but you can use the center of the laser line, or one of the edges of the laser line. Rent a digital rotary self leveling laser. Or find a buddy who has one.

[grymes56]

I am installing the Kerdi and while I know it really ins't necessary with Kerdi showers (and no actual inspection, ahem) - I would like to water test it anyway.

I would need to make a temporay dam/curb to hold back the water. I was thinking just a 2x4 wrapped in plastic braced on the rear (dry side) with some sand bags to hold back the pressure. The question is how to seal it? I remeber hearig somewhere to use alot of plumbers putty but I am worried that all of the oils in that will leave a residue on the Kerdi that will affect the bond of the tile or maybe even leach through the light colored marble that Im putting down.

Obviously silicone would work but there is nothing temporary about silicone...

It is not imperative that I water test it if it is unreasonable - but if there is a simple solution I would like to try it.

[Houston Remodeler]

Kyle,

Get yerself some tubafors and a roll of gorilla tape. Place the tubafors where you want your dam, then using the tape, make an L between the floor and the side of the wood.....oh and don't press too hard, you'll rip the fleece off later.

[grymes56]

not a bad idea paul...have you tried that method?

[Houston Remodeler]

Yes, necessity is the mother of invention.

[grymes56]

I thought I had all of the little details taken care of - but I forgot about a shelf for the niche. The shelf needs to be 18.25" x 4", and the entire bathroom is being done in a combination of Emperador Light and Emperador Dark marbles. I would prefer Emperador Light for the shelf. The problem with just getting an 18" tile is that I think most are resin backed, also they will probably be nominally less than 18" and I need 18.25"

I'm getting slabs in Emperador dark fabbed up for the countertop and shwr seat - but those are gonna be a full 1.25" thick. Is there anything in between large format tile and pure slabs available in this type of marble???