Curbless shower/bathroom

[doitright]

Hi Jennifer

According to the deflecto, it appears that you're boderline. If it was mine, I'd probably do it. Let's see if others chime in here.

[mosquito]

what am I getting myself into? I got my samples of Carter Glass tile from hakati today. I really like its looks. I've been doing lots of research on this forum and it sounds like a lot of trouble. I like the grout-on-first trick with the paper-on-the-front type mosaics, but is there a trick like that for these tiles? Will this tile stand up to foot traffic? I can't use ditra under it on the bathroom floor, so what do I need to use under it?

[John Bridge]

Hi Jennifer,

You could use quarter-inch backer board or Nobleseal if you can find someone to sell you a small piece.

Actually, you could use Ditra. You would not garner the Schluter seal of approval, but it's only a small floor . . . and it's a bathroom which won't get a lot of heavy-duty shoe traffic. If you pre-float the Ditra with thin set and let it harden, it makes a pretty rigid base for mosaics.

[doitright]

Hi Jennifer

Yep, those are some pretty tiles.

Who said you can't use Ditra under them?

What John said. Actually, if you call Schluter, they may give you their seal of approval with a prefloat. I understand they do this on a case by case scenario.

[Davy]

Hi Jenn, the grout trick with glass mosaics is mainly for back splashes, I wouldn't want to install it that way on a bath floor. Figure out which CBU you want to use and get it installed. The tiles will hold up fine.

[mosquito]

I am doing my shower and floor with glass mosaic tiles as above. My mosaic tile will end on an outside corner of the wall. I have been looking for some way to end the mosaic tile. The closest I have come is schluter schiene in satin aluminum anondized. It is the only transition peice I have found that will go down to the 1/8 inch. The tiles will basically be the colors in the pics above and the fixtures are all brushed nickle. will it work? any other suggestions?

[chassis]

Jennifer, I'll bet you could go without the Schluter molding, and use a grout edge finish. Stop the tile about 1/16" or so short of the wall. Apply the grout with your index trowel (finger) and make it nice and neat. You can achieve a very small fillet of grout with this technique. Or you could continue the tile around the corner on the adjacent wall. I personally don't care for the Schuter trims. To my eye, they take the focus away from the tile, and draw it toward the shiny metal thingy.

[doitright]

Hi Jennifer

I'm with Will on this one.

[mosquito]

I was peering around the attic after tearing out my ceiling and discovered that the vent fans from the microwave in the kitchen and from the bathroom both just dump out into the attic. Is this acceptable?

[jadnashua]

It's done alot, not the greatest thing. From the kitchen, you will be adding grease and moisture. From the bathroom, moisture. Depending on where you live, how long the showers are, and what you cook, you could be adding a bunch of moisture - could lead to mold, etc. Might not, too. It is always better to vent outside. Don't know if codes apply or not, though.

[doitright]

Hi Jennifer

In my opinion it's not acceptable. As Jim stated, local building codes may or may not apply. I would look to see if you can get them vented through the roof.

[mosquito]

We got our water supply lines moved and soldered for sink and shower with only two restarts. Now If the new heater would come in (need to get it in before I can close in the walls) I could really get started in earnest!

[mosquito]

Can I put cbu directly over the 2x4 s in the shower niche? If so, do I need to leave expansion room?

[mosquito]

Question #1 see post above.

#2 I have to plumb some walls up to 3/4 inch difference from floor to ceiling. Is this too much for drywall shims?

[jdm]

Jennifer --

1. Yes.

2. You're probably better off nailing a new, straight 2x4 to the ones that are that far out of line. The new ones, of course, should be plumb.