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Unread 05-07-2014, 05:58 AM   #31
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Anyone have any idea how to fix this? What's happened is one of my studs in the bathroom is way smaller than all the other studs.. it's only 5-1/4 instead of 5-1/2. I did not notice this when I put up the drywall, but when I went to put in the tub, there was a huge gap on this one stud, so I shimmed it out so my permabase would overhang the tub lip correctly. I've checked this carefully, the permabase IS nice and flat, but the drywall above it is bowed in on the small stud. I measured it with a caliper and it's right at 1/4" at the worst part. at the time, I didn't think the shim I put in there was all that thick, but I guess it was. at this point, I can't remove the permabase, as it's glued to the studs. I"m thinking I could fill this in with something.. perhaps about a foot up the wall and feather it in... then re-texture it, then repaint it.. but

18) what would work for this? Drywall mud? Thinset? something else?

19) would some mesh reinforcement tape help keep the patch from cracking or coming off?
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Unread 06-04-2014, 05:56 AM   #32
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Ok, I finally got my wall fixed... and just got the kerdi installed. Now I am wondering....

20) what is the easiest way for me to install my tiles to the Kerdi on the wall? I suppose I could use thinset for this, but I'm wondering if there is a better way that will not make such a huge mess... maybe some kind of adhesive in a tube?
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Unread 06-04-2014, 07:07 AM   #33
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I can't see where you have mentioned the size of the tiles but as long as you are not using a small, sheet mounted tile you can apply the thinset to the tile on a flat horizontal surface and then stick it on the wall. I would still skim coat the kerdi with the flat side of your trowel before adhering the tile to the wall.
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Unread 06-04-2014, 07:27 AM   #34
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They are 10" x 14" tiles with 2" x 10" bullnose tiles on the edges.
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Unread 06-04-2014, 09:42 AM   #35
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20 - Thinset only in wet areas. No premix, definitely no premix
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Unread 06-09-2014, 09:01 AM   #36
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21) What size spacers should I use for my 10" x 14" tiles?
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Unread 06-09-2014, 09:07 AM   #37
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Take about 6 tiles and stand them up vertically on their side. (on a flat surface)
Put a straight edge across the tiles and measure the variation from high to low. (if there is any) Whatever the measurement is you will times that by 3. IOW if you have a 1/16in. difference in tile sizes, you would use a 3/16 spacer and so on.
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Unread 06-09-2014, 12:49 PM   #38
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I checked the tiles as you recommend, and I can't see any difference between them. I do notice that they are all slightly wider at the back (glue surface) then the front (glazed surface). but the upper corner of each tile hits my straight edge all at the same time.
Is there some minimum grout line I should use in this case? I noticed at Lowes they have spacers 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" and up from there.
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Unread 06-09-2014, 01:01 PM   #39
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If your tiles are that well sized, then it's up to you but certainly 1/8in. would be my minimum and for a DYI'er I'd bump up to 3/16in. just to be on the safe side. Besides, a 3/16in. joint looks great with your tile size.
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Unread 06-09-2014, 01:26 PM   #40
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Ok, Great! Thanks for the advice. I don't have many tiles to deal with.. the largest section is only 5 tiles wide by 2 tiles high, but I think I better stick with 3/16 lines, as it seems to be more forgiving and I'm a newbie

23) What is normally done in the corners? do I run one tile all the way to the corner then put the adjacent one one grout line away? that seems like it's asking for trouble because I think my kerdi has a slight radius in the corner... or do I make both of them stop short so the grout line is right in the corner? I'm thinking I could stick a spacer in the corner diagonally and at the surface it would be the correct spacing, but I'm just not sure how it's normally done. I have one 90 degree corner and one 36 degree corner.

24) what is normally done with the corners? are they grouted or siliconed?
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Unread 06-09-2014, 01:36 PM   #41
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25) What do I do where the tiles hit the floor? Do I put them right on the floor or do I leave a small gap then fill it in later?
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Unread 06-09-2014, 01:38 PM   #42
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Leave a gap and caulk it later.
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Unread 06-10-2014, 11:27 AM   #43
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Getting ready to install the tiles onto the Kerdi.

26) What Size and type of trowel do I use to apply thinset to the back of the tiles?

27) how much working time does thinset usually have? Should I mix up enough for the entire job even if I will still have to make some cuts along the way?

28) to skimcoat the kerdi, is that just a putting it on as thin as possible and removing as much as I can with the flat side of my trowel, or should I leave some thickness there?

29) what is the correct consistency of the thinset? I'm guessing too thin any my tiles will slide around too much and too thick won't give me any time to get them positioned... any advice?
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Unread 06-10-2014, 11:50 AM   #44
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"You'll have a much easier time if you thin down some Red Guard 1: 4 with water and apply that over the CBU before starting the kerdi."

Late to the party, miss you guys. Am I reading the above quote right? Like redguard & kerdi? its early. .
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Unread 06-10-2014, 12:20 PM   #45
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Chate', if you'll go to our FAQ you'll find a brief tutorial on how to post and properly attribute quotes here on the site. Very simple once you see it, and folks won't need to go searching about to determine whom or what is being quoted, eh?

While CBP does recommend mixing their RedGard with water as a primer over particularly absorbent substrates for a RedGard application, I would not recommend it for a Kerdi installation. Probably wouldn't hurt, and it might possibly help, but I still wouldn't do it. Dampening the substrate sufficiently is all that should normally be necessary for a successful Kerdi application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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