Kerdi shower pan with center drain and kerdi heat?

[qwertyjjj]

They are 4x6" tiles for the wall.
3/8 is a big difference to deal with I guess.

[cx]

If the tiles are installed horizontally and not offset, that difference is only 6 percent. With a 50 percent offset it will be 12 percent on the half cuts and be much more noticeable, but the stagger helps somewhat on the visual.

If the wall is flat and it's a gradual taper, someone who doesn't know it's there may not notice at all. If the deviation from plumb occurs only near the top or bottom, it may be more noticeable. And someone who knows of the error will always see it, of course.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[qwertyjjj]

It's because there's a wall that runs off at 90 degrees from there that will only have one column of the tiles cut in half next to the curb and you'll see it there unfortunately.
Any techniques in mudding?
In imagine it's difficult to create a float guide that is only 3/8" tapered to nothing or can I rip something like that on a table saw? Would have to be a very fine blade lots of teeth.
Or pre bought float guide?

[qwertyjjj]

Is the shower tray a linear slope from each side or is it curved?

[qwertyjjj]

One of our showers is under stairs.
We're worried about the vibration eventually cracking the ceiling tiles. Could ditra decoupling help?
I can't find any information about installing it on the ceiling

[cx]

I don't have a Schluter foam tray of recent manufacturer, but I believe they're still made with four sectional slopes to a center drain. The divisions are not so dramatic that you'd not be able to tile over them without it being visible. In fact, the entire slope of those foam trays is less than the required 1/4" per foot.

You didn't find any information about installing Ditra on ceilings because Ditra is indicated by the manufacturer for floors only. Not indicated for walls or ceilings.

There is no tile industry testing that indicates that "decoupling" works on floors, so there would be even less information available for your proposed application.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[qwertyjjj]

Is it worth a try for the ceiling?
There's not an easy way to solidify the stairs now.
Most of the stair load is obviously on either side of the steps where the diagonal support is.
I figured if ditra deals with subfloor flex then it could deal with ceiling flex?

Edit: aren't these all seperate topics? I noticed you keep adding them all to the same post even though it's not the same shower in all cases. I'm doing 3 bath/showers

[cx]

I understand your three shower issue, Gordon, and we invited you early on to identify them so they could be separate projects if that were the case, but you declined. Hence, all combined here so we at least have some continuity rather than just shotgunned questions with no history of the project to aid in responding to your questions.

Originally Posted by Gordon

I figured if ditra deals with subfloor flex then it could deal with ceiling flex?

The problem with that is what you're calling "flex". Even the product manufacturer hasn't been able to describe what he's protecting us from with sufficient specificity to develop a test for the product and all the similar products now on the market.

If what you're concerned with on your ceiling application is vertical movement, the uncoupling membrane is not likely to help, but nor would a crack isolation product. If your stair deflection is limited to no more than L/360, the ceiling below should be sufficient for a ceramic tile installation. If that's the flex you're talking about, the Ditra requires a floor structure that meets that deflection standard, so I would think it would require the same for a ceiling if it were indicated for such an application, which it is not.

If your ceiling structure meets the deflection requirement, and if the ceiling backing material is sufficient for a ceramic tile installation, it should work satisfactorily. If not, will Ditra or similar product help? I honestly can't say, but I wouldn't think it would be at all helpful.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[ss3964spd]

If the framing for the ceiling is actually attached to the stair's diagonal supports, AKA stringers, then yeah, I'd be hesitant about tiling the ceiling.

But the ceiling framing probably isn't attached to the stringers, it's more than likely attached the the wall studs on either side of the stringers and the stringers themselves may not even be attached to those studs. In which case I would tile the ceiling.

Verifying how the ceiling framing is attached is, of course, up to you.

[qwertyjjj]

What is the reason you can't put heat cable against a wall or close to it? The manufacturer says 3" but surely a wall is not going to heat up excessively.
Secondly, I'm heating a bench/seat in a shower but the cable needs to run vertically for 2' before running along the seat and then back down to the rest of the shower base. Can you run the cable vertically for this distance?

[jadnashua]

Yes, you can run the cable vertically.

The issue with putting the cable too close to a wall is how the heat radiates from the cable. The cable and surface could get too hot as there may not be a good conductive clump of material in that direction. That's more important on a floor where the wall isn't tiled. It might not be as bad if both surfaces were being tiled depending on how the joint was done...but, industry standards call for there to be a gap or an expansion accommodation, so that wouldn't conduct the heat like the tile would.