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Unread 12-06-2019, 05:02 AM   #1
bradpatterson
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denssheild for tub surround

Hello i have done quite a bit of tile work in my house, i am currently installing a tub in my kids bathroom and want to do a tile surround, i would like to use denshield, normally use durock for my surrounds, my question is what does everyone think of this product and can i use redgard over it for waterproofing,thanks in advance.
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Unread 12-06-2019, 05:30 AM   #2
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Welcome back, Brad.

Densshield has its own waterproofing layer, so no other waterproofing is needed. It does require a sealant for the seams and screw penetrations.

My problem with Densshield is the gypsum core. Not so much the core itself, but that the edges are exposed. If any water gets to that core, the board is toast. I'm not saying it's a terrible product, but there are just better ones out there.

If I were doing a job like yours, I'd probably use a foam board before I'd use Densshield.
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Unread 12-06-2019, 08:10 PM   #3
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I have the same objection as Kevin. The sides need to be sealed and the directions are bordering on ridiculous, in my opinion, in coating all the edges with silicone. Years ago, I heard from reps how the core ‘doesn’t absorb moisture. So I performed a test weighing a sample before and after exposure to moisture. The sample gained water weight. The last thing you want with a completed project is for a tiny leak to cause your substrate to fail.

Durock is an excellent product. And it’s easy to get a wicked-strong bond to it. If you want to coat it with RedGard, you’ve got an excellent system of waterproofing.

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Unread 12-08-2019, 06:00 AM   #4
bradpatterson
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backer board to tub transition

Hello i have another question about my tub surround, where the backer board meets the tub flange, do i run the backer board all the way to the tub which means i would have to fur out my studs to do that, or do i run it to the top of the flange and tile down the rest of the way just filling the gap with thinset, also i will be sealing the surround with redquard if this matters.
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Unread 12-08-2019, 08:30 AM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
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Ideally, you run the backer to within 1/4” of the tub’s shoulder. And depending on the tub’s flange size/configuration and the configuration of how the room would accommodate are prohibit the furring, you may or may not fur all or some of the studs. Do you have a picture of the tub or space where the tub will be installed so we can clarify this currently cryptic advice?

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Unread 12-08-2019, 07:50 PM   #6
bradpatterson
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backer board to tub trasistion

Here are a couple picsName:  tub alcove 1.jpg
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Name:  tub alcove 2.jpg
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Unread 12-08-2019, 09:31 PM   #7
Tool Guy - Kg
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So far, I can tell that you can fur out the studs to the 5’ long wall on the back side of the tub, if needed. But the plumbing wall and the wall opposite are questionable because I can’t see if furring those walls creates a problem with something else in the room.

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Unread 12-09-2019, 04:39 AM   #8
bradpatterson
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yes you are correct i should be able to fur out the end wall opposite the plumbing wall also i think on the plumbing wall side i may be able to fur also but i believe i will have to use 5/8 drywall to meet the backer board, i know it looks like i have a wall all the way across on the plumbing wall but i haven't cut the bottom plate off yet from framing for the pocket door opening,if i don't use the 5/8 drywall im afraid it's going to mess up my casing for the door.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 07:21 AM   #9
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What's the center-to-center spacing for those studs on the plumbing wall, Brad? Looks a little wide from here.....
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Unread 12-09-2019, 08:07 AM   #10
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I haven’t finished framing the plumbing wall yet I’ve got to replace the valve so I wanted to do that before I finished framing the end of it
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Unread 12-09-2019, 10:39 PM   #11
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That’s a lotta studs to the left of the drain. What’s the story over there?

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Unread 12-10-2019, 04:53 AM   #12
bradpatterson
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long story short when i gutted the bathroom, right on the other side of the wall is a door to a bedroom when whoever installed the door in the room they realized there was no framing in the wall i have ripped apart to secure there door jamb to, so instead of doing it right they just used a hollow wall anchor to hold the door jamb in place, so that is what the two studs are for in that stack of lumber, then there is my jack and king stud for the door opeing, and the stud in between that is where the tub apon will be going down to the floor, if that makes since, thats the kind of things i run into in this house fixing other peoples screw up, the downstairs of the home is correct, but i think the upstairs was fininshed by the home owner when the house was built in 93 at least that's what it looks like by the shoddy work up there fun fun!!
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Unread 12-10-2019, 11:14 AM   #13
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Did you put the water shut offs in? I see those sometimes in condos but not usually in a residential single family home.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 03:12 PM   #14
bradpatterson
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No i didn't put them in when i redo the plumbing and replace the tub valve i will change them to a pex shutoff.
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Unread 12-12-2019, 09:14 PM   #15
bradpatterson
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water proofing tub surround

i asked a question a few days ago about backer board around a tub surround i have another question about water proofing it, i plan on using redgaurd to water proof with, my question is i have seen a few people use a cloth looking tape on the seams and corners instead of backer board tape and mortar what is everyone's opinion, the reason iam asking is if i do this it may help with less build up in the seams and corners with thinset, sorry for the long post.
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