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Unread 05-17-2020, 11:08 AM   #1
Bandook
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Need suggestions for finishing outside corners in shower

Need a little advice to move forward. I've learned nearly everything so far from this forum. What an amazing wealth of knowledge here! So I'm redoing a small shower, first time doing this. Traditional pan/liner. I'm using a decorative ceramic tile. To hide the edges I intend to use schluter metal trim. I was thinking of running it straight to the edge of the wall but not sure if I need to finish the wall somehow at the corner? Should I use the corner plastic 90° stuff for drywall? Thinset on shower side and compound on drywall side?

Don't want the tiles bumping out in the corner. So far everything is pretty straight and flat. Or I was thinking to turn the corner with the tile and use the schluter trim on the drywall side. But that m and 45'ing the tiles on my crappo Harbor Fraud tile saw. Whatcha think? Need to sort this out before I redguard everything. Thanks!
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Unread 05-17-2020, 07:46 PM   #2
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I just used metal corner bead and thinset to even out the transition.
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Unread 05-18-2020, 09:26 AM   #3
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Since it's technically outside the wet area, use a corner bead there. There are plastic ones available, but some sheetrock finishers don't like them.

But if you run Kerdi and tile all the way to the corner there, you can use the metal corner since water won't get to it anyway.
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Unread 05-18-2020, 10:23 AM   #4
pls
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I just finished a bathroom with an outside corner on a stub wall. I used kerdi board. I did not want to have a corner bead and then put a Schluter profile on top of that so I ran a vertical strip of kerdi band that was just to the outside edge. This effectively tied the corner together. Profile is flush with outside wall. This is what Schluter rep recommended.
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Unread 05-18-2020, 04:55 PM   #5
Bandook
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Thanks. Yeah, I just went with the metal corner. While I got you guys on the horn, can you help with my next decision? What would you suggest for where to end the tile? I'm using 12" tile (11 7/8) and my wall is 38 1/2". If I took the edge in to 36" it would be a nice layout. I'm doing brick wall layout. But it would give less elbow room once the shower door is in. And the tile would stick out from door frame just a bit and I'd paint the small section after the tile ends. If I took it to edge I'd have more room but have odd cuts and wouldn't look as clean from inside shower.

Back wall is 35" so it will look nice. Again, this is my first time doing wall tile. I wanted to do a niche so that's a lot more to figure out. I planned out the niche so it begins and ends on a grout line horizontally...hopefully lol. Oh, also doing a horizontal band of accent tiles. Sure did jump in big on this one...but I'm up for the challenge.
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Unread 05-19-2020, 08:34 AM   #6
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Just my opinion Christopher, but I'd take the tile and edging all the way out to the corner, which will allow you to take the door out farther, which will add precious inches inside the shower.
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Unread 05-23-2020, 07:38 PM   #7
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Thanks Dan, I went your direction. Glad I did too.

However, I've sorta buggered myself on a different issue. My layout for the niche was basically off a grout line, 1/8". I'm too far away from the bottom, and the course above the niche is too low I swear I measured this umpteen times before I layed out the first row. So I need advice on best way to fix this. My niche is two tiles tall, or it was supposed to be. So now I either fill this in with 1/4" grout on the bottom, or tear into the bottom of the shelf and try to shave some off and buy another gallon of redguard to seal it up again. Niche is 2x4 trimmed, covered with 1/4" durock.

Also not crazy about this schluter trim. It is less than 90° and I don't see how it will look good mitered. Is there a better trim to use here?

Also can a mod rename my thread to something like "Bandook's first shower, mistakes in the making", to better forecast the tone I foresee here? Lol, thanks!
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Unread 05-23-2020, 08:29 PM   #8
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Does that tile have a matching bullnose available?

Next time, when you are tiling the area under the niche and get within a couple rows of the niche, go ahead and hold tiles up there with spacers to make sure you're going to hit the niche like you want. If you would have known this problem earlier, you could have made the joints a little larger for a couple rows. It would have never been noticeable after it was grouted.

If the tiles aren't exactly the same size, you might find a few large ones to use on the next row. Or, if the thinset is still wet, remove a row and use larger tiles in their place along with the row above them.
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Unread 05-23-2020, 09:44 PM   #9
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No bullnose unfortunately, Davy. What you said makes sense now in hindsight. My least favorite way to learn, haha. I have a feeling that I'm trying to be too precise with this whole thing. I'm pretty sure my math was good, but now I notice some small variations in the tile which probably threw it off. I used to roof when I was younger, I'm thinking I should be using a little more roofer mentality by fudging a line here and there.

Now that I've thought about it, it might not be horrible to just grout that 1/4". Yeah not ideal, but better than tearing into the niche again. The top of the niche I can just screed in the 1/8" I think and be fine.

I think I'm gonna go to F&D and look at the other schluter trim profiles. Anyone use this 90° that I have here for a niche? I noticed they have like a bullnose profile that you don't have to miter and it attaches in the corners with little corner connectors. Is that better for a niche?
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Unread 05-24-2020, 07:09 AM   #10
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This is how I did my niche with the jolly profile.
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Unread 05-24-2020, 08:18 AM   #11
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Tiles are usually not all the same exact size. Tiles a little smaller or larger as you go up can run the rows crooked and out of level. I like placing my level on top of the row just after setting it. I then use the plastic wedges to push the tiles up against my level. I'd rather my grout joints slightly vary in size and keep the tiles level and straight.
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Unread 05-24-2020, 08:32 AM   #12
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Just reiterating what they said. Run a level after every row and stick wedges in to keep it all level on the way up. If you don’t, you often get to the ceiling and find you have a problem too big to hide.

You can use the corner pieces that you mentioned. We have been doing niche corners like pls posted when using Jolly. Modern look, not a fan of mitering them. Miter stuff like Rondec. I know many frown on it, but we cut the trim with the tile saw. Go slow or it will grab. It’s quick and easy and gives great cuts.
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Unread 05-24-2020, 09:24 AM   #13
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Thanks guys. I've been using a laser all the way up. I'm still square with my ceiling. I only remember one or two tiles that I had to twist the spacer a little. Maybe I'll leave a 1/4" grout line all around to frame it. Will look a little more intentional I guess. Unless I can find something like an 1/8" piece of glass or metal to stick in it.

And thanks for the help with the "jolly trim. I still don't understand why it is less than a 90° trim. Maybe it will make better sense when I install it. I definitely like the idea of butting the pieces up instead of mitering, thanks!
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Unread 05-24-2020, 10:13 AM   #14
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I like Quadec or Rondec for niche. I've done with Jolly but had almost always put profile "leg" in niche. I nearly always miter...don't love the way the corners look with the insert.
The less than 90° can be a little vexing but a little massaging with sharp file and minor tweaking it can be made to look OK.
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Unread 05-24-2020, 10:37 AM   #15
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Nice shower, Peter.
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