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Unread 03-10-2009, 02:16 PM   #1
M.T.Pockets
Markus
 
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Square shwer drain and morter bed ?

Hi all, my name is Markus, first shower .

I have a concrete slab , i instaled a pre-slope insert from Noble co. and used their "Chloraloy " for the pan , did my water test , no leaks. for the walls i used Kerdi . ( wish i had found out a bout kerdi in the begining ,, o well to late.

now im needing to put dry mud on

so this is my question, from what i can tell i need 1 1/4" of mud at the drain, and slope 1/4 per foot .

I have 1/2 " travertine tile to put on the floor.

do I put the drain in and run it down to wher i have 1 1/4" below the bottem of the drain and allow for the tile and grout, , becouse i have a square drain, after i set the mud in , i have no adjustment, if i use a round drain strainer i supose i would be able to make a small adjustment up or down,

comments welcome !

Thanks Markus
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Unread 03-10-2009, 02:20 PM   #2
ceramictec
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try looking at this, it explains a lot


http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html
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Unread 03-10-2009, 02:50 PM   #3
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Hi Markus, welcome. You can notch a stick the tile thickness plus a little for thinset, use it to cut the mud around the drain. Like I did here.
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Unread 03-10-2009, 03:21 PM   #4
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The trick stick is a good idea, Markus. There was a time when all the drains I ran into were fixed. Anyway, I would screw the drain up as high as you can. Leave a couple full threads into the flange. Then use your stick around the top of the drain.

I'm wondering if you ran a pre-slope under your shower pan material. If so you would pretty much keep the same mud thickness all the way to the walls.

The other thing, I guess you ran the liner up behind the wall panels and then attached the Kerdi to the fronts of them?
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Unread 03-10-2009, 06:55 PM   #5
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thats correct John, ill post some pics later tonight, i set the bench and after i get the bottem in it was going to be 2" short ! ( hommer simpson, DOAH !)
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Unread 03-10-2009, 08:07 PM   #6
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first pic is of the drain, at 1 1/2" the line on the wall is at 2"

second pic is of the bench with the walls in kerdi.


the pan goes up the wall 6"behind the wall
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Unread 03-10-2009, 08:17 PM   #7
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Ceramictec , Davy and john, thanks alot,. think i got how to do it, I hope !
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Unread 03-10-2009, 08:23 PM   #8
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Welcome, Markus. Please enter that first name into a permanent signature line so it will appear in each post and we won't gotta search for it.

I still see no response to John's question about your pre-slope.

There should be no need at all to try to make a slope in the final mud bed. It should be the same thickness throughout and follow the slope of your liner.

Your drain should still be quite adjustable, you'll just need to adjust a quarter-turn at a time, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-11-2009, 09:07 AM   #9
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Thanks CX, going to try and get this done today, ill let ya know how it turns out.

CX, on a side note, I have been putting in on the Ibex hunts for years, see what happens this year, and those are the best guides out their, have been talking to them for over 10 years.
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Unread 03-11-2009, 09:38 AM   #10
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You still haven't tole us about your pre-slope, Markus. That's really important.

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Wish you success on your Ibex drawing. I trust you've talked with the guys at Kauffman Outfitters about the best approach to those applications for the best draw odds?

We had a 50% kill percentage out of four hunters on the bow hunt in January with 100% shot opportunity. Wazza good hunt.

You a sharp stick hunter?
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Unread 03-11-2009, 10:00 AM   #11
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Liner looks flat to me, 1/2" higher mark at the walls for the mud kinda proves that.
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Unread 03-11-2009, 10:43 AM   #12
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the Pre-slope i bougth from Noble co. got the 40"x40" and used morter to fill in the nedded space left over , shower is 47" x 33" . so i have 1/4" at the drain, and 3/4 " at the wall right now with the liner instaled,

I marked the walls at 1 3/4" and at the bottem of the drain i have put it to where it will be 1 1/4 " for mud , then the top of the drain is set to have the 1/2" for tile plus 0.3 " for thinset, how does that sound ?


Yep im a bow hunter ,but on this hunt been trying to get the gun permit, , i tore out my knee a few years back, need to get it fixed, but who has the time ?, so gona need all the advantage i can., have you got your Ibex ?
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Unread 03-11-2009, 10:45 AM   #13
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Ok.
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Unread 03-11-2009, 01:08 PM   #14
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good bad and or ugly,,its done!

how long should i stay off it ? 36 hours ?
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Unread 03-11-2009, 01:19 PM   #15
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Just keep in mind that 1/4" per foot is a minimum slope, Markus.

If that mud's packed tight, you can technically tile it right now. If you're gonna tile your walls first (recommended), I'd stay off the floor until manana at least. Cover it with a folded tarp and a scrap of plywood or similar to keep it reasonably clean and undamaged.

My opinion; worth price charged.

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Ibex hunting in the Florida mountains is a very physical persuit, 'specially if armed only with sharp sticks. Helps to be able to shoot a long way, but if you got knee problems you're likely fixin' to be sore even on a rifle hunt. But by all means go anyway.
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Originally Posted by Markus
have you got your Ibex ?
I don't hunt big game at all, Markus. Gave it up years ago. But I still keep a current NM guide license and do still enjoy guiding, 'specially for Ibex. Just got no interest in killin' nothin' for myownself, 'specially stuff that don't taste good, Like Ibex.

Now, if I could get me an Oryx tag I'd be happy to go back to my murderous ways and shoot as many as we could get inna truck. Them are gooooood eatin'.
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