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Unread 07-14-2007, 11:49 AM   #1
enviroko
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Need advice on an installation.

Hi, I'm planning on tiling our kitchen & dining room with 15" ceramic tiles. The two rooms are currently ...

Kitchen: Old Armstrong type tiles (those ugly things that they put in schools and office buildings). We are trying to remove these. Under that is 3/4" plywood then 1" x 8 or 10" wood planks.

Do we definitely need to put a backer board over this surface before tiling or can we get away with tiling directly over the plywood?

Dining Room: This room has badly stained hardwood floors so we'd like to tile it. Our plan so far is to replace the hardwood (3/4") with 3/4" plywood and then whatever we need to tile. Again, is it an absolute must to use a backerboard?

Would a mortar such as FlexBond help at all?

Thanks!

Kevin

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Unread 07-14-2007, 11:54 AM   #2
jay f
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It isn't abolutely necessary to use cbu in these situations, but it is quite often the better choice, especially if you have limited experience with tile. But first things first, have you run your numbers through the deflecto? First thing is to make sure that your floor can support ceramic tile.
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Unread 07-14-2007, 08:21 PM   #3
enviroko
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What numbers would I need to run? I had a professional tiler stop in today and he recommended at least a 1/4" DuraRock.
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Unread 07-14-2007, 08:34 PM   #4
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Welcome, Enviroko. Please give us a first name to use, unless that's it.

And welcome also to the John Bridge/Terry Love forum exchange program.

While it is possible to tile directly to EGP (Exterior Glue Plywood), we don't recommend it at all for DIYers and almost not at all for pros. When it is done, it must be done over double-layer plywood, properly installed over a suitable joist structure. You can't get there from here unless you're willing to remove everything down to the joists and start over. Not worth it.

In lieu of a CBU you could also use a sheet membrane of some sort. We frequently recommend Schluter's Ditra for folks who don't wanna use CBU. Ditra's more expensive, but thinner and much easier to install.

To evaluate your joist structure you need to know the type, size, spacing, and longest unsupported span of your joists.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-26-2007, 07:55 AM   #5
enviroko
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Advice on raising a threshold after tiling.

I'm about to tile my dining room but this will make the floor to high for the door to pass over it. I have cut the door off to clear the tile floor but now my threshold is to low to seal the door.

I have tried to figure out how to remove the threshold but I can't find any screws or nail. Maybe it's just glued. I'm thinking about looking for something to put on top of it to raise it. Any advice?

Thanks!
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Unread 07-26-2007, 08:04 AM   #6
chuck stevenson
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Is this an interior or exterior door? If exterior, you would want to address this issue before you tile. What is the existing floor?
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Unread 07-26-2007, 08:24 AM   #7
cx
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I've merged you with your previous thread, enviroko. Please bookmark this on and keep all your project questions here so folks can keep up with the history and what's been asked and answered.

Also, please give us a first name to use.
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Unread 07-26-2007, 01:23 PM   #8
enviroko
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It's Kevin. See the first post. I started a new post because I know how forums work. After a few replies everyone figures that you got your answer so they don't check back.

Why are URLs disabled? I'd like to post some pictures of the threshold that are larger than 50kb.
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Unread 07-26-2007, 03:26 PM   #9
cx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enviroko
I started a new post because I know how forums work.
And I combined your threads because I know how this one works, Kevin. Humor me, won'tcha?

And please go to the UserCP above, find Edit Signature, and enter your first name there so it will appear in each post and we won't hafta go searchin' for it.

URLs were only disabled for you because you had too few posts. It's an anti-spam feature we have in place. You should be able to post links now. And please keep the photo size in your links down to about 800 pixels in width so they don't cause those with smaller screens to hafta scroll back and forth to read the text on the page. Thanks.
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Unread 07-26-2007, 04:00 PM   #10
jadnashua
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Not all construction is designed to support tile properly. In the blue bar above is "Deflecto"; use it to determine if your floor is strong enough to put tile on.

Vinal, especially if cushioned, needs to come up. Hardwood needs to come up. Depends on what is underneath that would determine what else, if anything needs to happen. If the vinal is on luan plywood, take it up with the vinal, it has to go.

The size of the tile has no bearing on the strength of the floor, but the bigger the tile, the flatter you'll want it before you start - it is exponentially harder to get a good result on a wavy floor - flat is to goal.

Whether you need more ply would be determined what's on the floor now and its condition.

An alternative to cbu is a membrane, which is thinner and actually works better.
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