Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 06-25-2003, 07:58 PM   #1
Tito
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vineland NJ
Posts: 39
Smile Master shower project

My master bath shower is finally framed, and the electrical rough in is under way. There are only 2 shower light fixture selections at our local home centers. Are there any other lighting choices available? Thanks.
Tito is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 06-25-2003, 08:21 PM   #2
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,732
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
There are a bunch, but you will have to go to a lighting store or an electrical supply. All of them are going to be recessed, though.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2003, 08:31 PM   #3
tileguytodd
Official Felker Fanatic
 
tileguytodd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 14,398
An easy way to fancy up a shower Tito.....Drop the cieling,add the lighting and Tile the cieling and soffit you just created.
__________________
TIP YOUR TILE MAN, His Retirement plan is not nearly as lucrative as yours and his waning years will be far more painful to boot.
He gives much so you can have a Beautiful Home!!
tileguytodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2003, 11:11 PM   #4
Gil Smith
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 368
Hi Tito,

A while back I was involved in a couple of high-end commercial projects where the architect had specified swimming pool lights as corridor lighting. Don't know where they came from or how much they cost, but it occurred to me at the time that they might make good shower lights....
Gil Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-04-2003, 12:12 PM   #5
Tito
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vineland NJ
Posts: 39
Talking

The electrical rough in is complete, and I'm going to install greenboard on the ceiling with Xtra studding {after reading current threads}. I have some questions on what happens next?

1. I am using the Kerdi Drain system, do I insulate, poly, install backer board on the walls then install the drain flange and slope the floor {over roofing paper and metal lath}???

2. Should I set the Hardibacker which I'm using, on the floor or leave a gap??

3. What about the area beneath the drain flange, [3/4" to 1"] after I glue it to the drain stub, what type of mixture can I shove in there? What about consistency?
I have watched the video and it shows the flange installed before the drain is hooked up.

4. I plan on making a mud bench do I need to take anything into consideration before I proceed?

I,ve attached a digital layout maybe next time I'll use my brother in laws' camera. My wife and I are trying to get this project done in between diaper changes and bottle feeding, Thank God for and extra bathroom.
Attached Images
 
Tito is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-04-2003, 12:44 PM   #6
tileguytodd
Official Felker Fanatic
 
tileguytodd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 14,398
Tito, you have a Kerdi drain, Are you doing a complete Kerdi Shower??

I am not familiar with the Kerdi drain system as well as others here, although i believe it is of the claming drain style.John would be better versed on this system.You could try thier link up top and go to thier site .
With a clamping drain,Your preslope would fill in to the level of your flange.Then your membrane would go over this Before installing your backer board etc.When the membrane is in place,install your poly vapor barrier and run it over the top of the membrane then install your backer board .You can leave a gap of an inch or so because this will then get filled with your final slope.Do not nail into the backer board below the level of your membrane.The final mudbed will hold it in place.If the hole is not tight where the drain comes through and you are concerned with morter spilling through, you can use duct tape,caulk or minimum expanding foam if its really drastic.
Go to the liberry and read the entry on Monolith Benches & Showers!!
__________________
TIP YOUR TILE MAN, His Retirement plan is not nearly as lucrative as yours and his waning years will be far more painful to boot.
He gives much so you can have a Beautiful Home!!
tileguytodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-04-2003, 09:05 PM   #7
Tito
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vineland NJ
Posts: 39
Talking

Todd, Thanks for the response, I will be using the kerdi drain and the kerdi membrane for the shower floor. The walls will be cement backerboard then tile. I don't plan on putting the kerdi on the walls. Unless there is a problem with that.
Tito is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2003, 07:53 AM   #8
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,732
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
Hi Tito,

One of the advantages of the Kerdi shower is that no water ever gets to the substrate behind or under the tiles. You're plan will short-circuit that objective.

I would instead go with the Kerdi system entirely. You can use sheetrock on the walls instead of backer board. This will both save you money and make things much easier.

Do all the framing and sheeting before you start on the floor. Let the sheetrock or backer board come down to within a half inch of the subfloor. It won't hurt to rest it on the floor either.

Build the curb any way you want. It can be covered with sheetrock also, or it can be covered with backer board. The curb could also be made from mortar, but this would slow you down considerable, and I don't recommend that.

In other words, you build the entire shower except for the sloped floor.

I set the drain the way they do it in the video, except I glue it to the pipe at that time. The guy in the video, Bryant, is working with a mock-up that has no plumbing under it, so he has it made.

You can add water to just a bit of your floor mud to juice it up, or you can make a dab of fat mud/wall mud with which to set the drain. Make a healthy ring of mud around the opening, apply glue to the inside of the drain fitting and to the pipe, and push the drain down into the mud, making sure you achieve the glue joint connection. I'll attach a picture.

For Kerdi-drains that must be set beforehand for plumbing reasons, it is important to push loose mortar (wet mortar) under the edge of the drain all the way around in order to achieve total support underneath. The drain is not designed to offer any structural support of its own.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by John Bridge; 07-06-2003 at 09:47 AM.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2003, 08:06 AM   #9
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,732
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
I forgot to mention the importance of getting the drain level, but I guess you can see my level there.

If your riser coming up from the trap is not plumb, you must do whatever is necessary to get it plumb before you set the drain. You won't be able to do much adjusting after the drain has been set in the mud.

Watch the video a couple more times. The process is not difficult, but like many things in our trade, you only get one shot at it.

You should run the Kerdi up to the shower head on all the walls. That will ensure that no water ever gets behind the matting.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2003, 09:22 PM   #10
Tito
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vineland NJ
Posts: 39
Talking

Thanks John, I see your point, I guess I'll have to order more kerdi. Not a problem, its going to take me a while before I sheet the entire shower.

Do I have to tape and mud the seems in the walls after I install the backerboard?? [ I've got nine sheets of hardi backer in my garage and I don't think its worth the trip to exchange them for drywall.]

Can I go with a 2by4 framed bench and cover that in kerdi??
Tito is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-06-2003, 09:54 AM   #11
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,732
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
I wouldn't worry about taping the CBU seams. The Kerdi is ten times stronger than the mesh tape, and a thin set build-up behind the Kerdi will only cause a bump that you don't need.

Frame the bench very strong and tilt the seat ever so slightly toward the shower drain -- about 3/8 in. from back to front. Screw down a layer of 3/4 ply on the top before you install the CBU.

A better, easier way would be to use the Better Bench. http://innoviscorp.com
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-01-2003, 05:12 AM   #12
Tito
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vineland NJ
Posts: 39
Smile

Hello everyone, I'm almost ready to lay tile on the bathroom floor first, I will be using ditra underlayment.
The schulter video tells me to use a non modified dry set mortar to install the ditra and the same on top of the ditra to adhere the tile.

Any suggestions on what brand of dry set mortar might be best suited for this application???
Tito is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-01-2003, 09:24 AM   #13
fishinfarmgirl
da Cheerleader!
 
fishinfarmgirl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Washington State
Posts: 783
Here you go!

Link added after message!


http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...a&pagenumber=2

I'm pretty sure I just saw a post of John's saying to use the Versabond from HD for that...but you'd better wait to hear from someone else to be sure...or else look at the posts from yesterday! I think that's when I saw it!

I'd check for ya and leave the link but I have ot get to work! (guess 5 minutes didn't make a difference!)

Sorry I can't be of more help!

L
__________________
Linda

"Great spirits have always encountered opposition from mediocre minds!" Albert Einstein

Last edited by fishinfarmgirl; 08-01-2003 at 09:35 AM.
fishinfarmgirl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-01-2003, 12:08 PM   #14
Tito
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vineland NJ
Posts: 39
Thanks for the response fishinfarmgirl,

My bathroom subfloor is 3/4 inch ext grade plywood can I still use versabond as John mentions in the thread you refered to, under and over the Ditra??

Does the toilet flange sit flush with the tilefloor or does it rest on top of the tile???
Tito is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-01-2003, 12:28 PM   #15
Gil Smith
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 368
Tito,

Versabond is a modified thinset......if your job calls for non-modified then I think Customblend or Masterblend would fit that requirement. Are you sure Schluter says use non-modified on top of Ditra?

Toilet flange should rest on top of finished tile but if too low you can use an exrended wax ring or even two rings when mounting the toilet.
Gil Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:57 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC