Bathroom remodel questions

[advtrvlr]

Hi all. I just joined the group, I'm a DIY and have a few questions.
I am starting a bathroom remodel. There is an existing shower (small boxed in) next to a 6 foot long cast iron tub on the second floor and both the shower and the tub have a tile surround. I will be replacing the tub with a double wide whirlpool tub, taking out the wall that existed between the tub and shower, and using a glass enclosure for the shower instead. Some of my questions are:

1. The cast iron tub - I've been told that I'll need to bust it up - how hard is this?

2. Existing tile - I believe it is thinset onto backer board - will it be easier to just remove tile and backer down to studs and replace with Hardibacker or Wonderboard? (And which is better-Hardibacker or Wonderboard?)

3. Shower pan/surround - I've read some of the posts and the Kerdi system sounds good, but I don't know if it meets code, and can you get the material in smaller quantitys?
Any help woud be welcome!
Paul

[tileguytodd]

Hi Paul and welcome aboard.
#1 a good 8-12# sledge,Hearing protection and eye protection will make short work of the tub
#2-Yes it is easier to remove all to the studs.Wear eye protection and break out a section with a hammer running vertical betwee studs.If your tile does not go all the way up,you can use a keyhole saw or a sawzall and cut through the rock at the top tile line removing everything below.
3- I believe to meet code in your area you may have to do a Hotmops pan.Scooter is one of our pro's in here from around your country.He would be more up on this and perhaps could even reccomend someone to you.Send him an email,he is in the member directory.
Good Luck Paul

[Scooter]

1. The cast iron tub - I've been told that I'll need to bust it up - how hard is this?

A couple good whacks with a 20lb sledge will crack that baby in half nicely. If it is a clawfoot, Cleveland wrecking might buy it. It could be worth up to a $1,000. No kidding.

2. Existing tile - I believe it is thinset onto backer board - will it be easier to just remove tile and backer down to studs and replace with Hardibacker or Wonderboard? (And which is better-Hardibacker or Wonderboard?)

Yep, bust it out too.

3. Shower pan/surround - I've read some of the posts and the Kerdi system sounds good, but I don't know if it meets code, and can you get the material in smaller quantitys?

No, it is not Code. This doesn't mean you can't use it, but you will have to get approval before you install it. Get some literature, product samples, and data from Schulter, who will help you. Maybe even some mock ups for it. Pull your permit and either go down to B&S and talk to the inspector in person, or ask for a home inspection and bombard him with it at your home with the product literature, mockups etc.

I would not install it and then try to bargain for an approval.

If you can talk your way into DalTile, they'll sell it to you, but they often tell homeowners to go somewhere else. Try a retail tile place. Or call Schulter, they'll sell direct or tell you where to get it. Some of the guys here might sell you some off their roll.

Me, I'd just use regular PVC and forgo the drill, unless you really have a specific need for Kerdi (frameless shower, steam unit, etc)

Wonderboard, Hardibacker. Ford or Chevy. Pick 'em.

Me, I use Hardibacker. Easier to cut, but cut it outside. Wonderboard can be cut inside with less dust. But it has ragged edges.

Good Luck!

[advtrvlr]

Thanks for the replies so far. I think since I have to rip out to the studs anyway, I'll have to put something on the wall, so I might as well use the Hardibacker there. The tub is a tile in kohler, so I guess a few wacks with a sledge is in order. How much porcelin(sp?) chips get sent? Would it help to drape the tub in plastic or tape it before whacking? I have windows surronding the tub that I'll have to cover as well.
Paul

[John Bridge]

Welcome, Paul.

[cx]

Welcome, Paul.

Hammering a cast iron tub is an occasion for serious eye protection. You will definately have some little glass splinters flying about. Usually not enough to damage much of anything else in the room ('less you gits really crazy with that pounder), but could harm the tender tissue.

If your momma always fussed at you about taking care of things at home, you're sure to get a big kick outa beatin' hell outa that tub right there in the house.

[stullis]

My vote would be for the wonderboard. I think Hardi backer is junk. Just my opinion.

[advtrvlr]

Hi,
I have another question. I'm using 12" polished marble for the shower and backslash. My shower floor is approxiately 48" by 46". Will I be able to use the 12" tiles on the floor with the slope, or do I need to get 6" tiles for that? I've only done one other shower, and the tiles were 6" on that floor.
Paul

[kemguru]

Hi Paul

12” polished tiles really shouldn’t be used on a shower floor. I have seen many a pictures where pro’s were able to follow the slope, so that’s not so much the issue. Slipping is the real concern. You can most definitely use the polished material, but to be safe, you need the grout joints closer than that so your feet can get a better grip. Monkey like

I would figure what size tile would best fit your space then cut them down. Also, seeing how you are using polished marble, figure for a grout joint less than 1/8” so you can use unsanded grout. If you are going to want to keep up a polished finish, it will need to be polished every once in a while. Unsanded grout will not scratch the stone during the polishing process.

[advtrvlr]

I was figuring that on the walls I would butt the 12" tiles together, and use unsanded grout. Is this ok, or do I need a minimum gap/grout space?
I guess I need to leave more of a gap on the floor for slipage after reading Tims post. So if I use a 6" tile on the floor, an 1/8" grout line should be ok?

Paul

[bbcamp]

Paul, you really need smaller tiles than 6x6. 3x3 is about as big as you can go unless you are willing to accept a lot of lippage (un-even height between adjacent tiles). Again, the extra grout lines will guard against slipping.

For the walls, you also need larger grout lines with your stone, at least 1/16" if the tiles are perfectly sized, and more if there is variations.

1/8" grout lines every where should work. Let's see what the pros say...

Bob

[advtrvlr]

To all of you that have responded so far - thank you!
I'm back with more questions. I've been busy pulling off the tile walls and will break up the tub and rest of the shower this week. The existing tile walls in the shower were put on greenboard! Makes it easier to break up though...

The marble tiles I am using are 12 x 12 Daltile Crema Marfil Elegance polished, with very straight sides, and a very slight bevel on the edges.

The local tile store told me I could butt the tiles up right next to each other, and that the unsanded grout will fill in where the bevel is. Is this good advice?

I decided to use 4x4 tumbled marble on the floor with an 1/8 inch grout line, so no problem with slipping. I was told I should tile the floor first.

Regarding the Backerboard.
Once I make the shower pan, how close do I place the cement backer board to the floor?

I was also told to put a bead of silicone adhesive on the edge of the backerboard before butting up the next piece - then tape and thinset the seams.
Is this right?

Paul

[Davy]

Hi Paul, leave about 1/16 inch joints in the marble. As it goes up some will get bigger, some smaller but always leave alittle joint.

I do the floor last but some do it first. If you do it first remember to protect it with a old piece of carpet or cardboard. I'd use sanded grout on the tumbled stone.

Take the backerboard down within 1/2- 3/4 inch of the pan.

I don't see a need to silicone the backerboard edges, just tape and thinset them and you'll be OK.

Are you sure you want marble in your shower?

[advtrvlr]

Yeah, I know- marble in a shower - bad idea right... but thats what the wife wants.
I've read up and I'll just wipe it down real good after each use, and use only the natural stone cleaner - the TYW stuff, right?

Paul

[Scooter]

I wouldn't go any larger than 2 inches on any shower floor. You will regret it if you do. I will look terrible and it will lots of extra work to make it look good.

I would stay away with marble in a shower. While it is easy to say you will perform the maintenance, I guaranty you that you will find it to be a pain in the ass. Just try wiping down a shower on a shower by shower basis. Thats 2-3 towels a day. Right. This is so not going to happen. Four Seasons can do this, they hire maids to do it every day. Wife is not going to like the maid routine. Trust me on this --lose the marble.