Your Works In Progress Or Finished Pics

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Nice Jon! What was your "secret" for getting the tile under the one stairrail spindle? Split cut and bracket slide up and down from spindle?

Detailed the outside sliders,where demo crew didn't remove polly pebble. They sure ratted em up though lol.....even the redguard they painted on was botched. Put in a few hours till rain ran me off today.

[John K]

Nice work Rich!

I've noticed you've been using those TLS clips. I tried them before and didn't have much success at pulling the bow down.

That big plank tile at 48" must be bowed, even 12x24 tile has some. What's your trick to getting enough downward pressure?


Thanks

John

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I flashed/pulled thinset in one direction,prior to setting,so that helped in regards to getting substrate somewhat flat.(if more time,woulda pulled it in both directions)

I use a 1/2" notch trowel,and get it as close as I can when I set em in the thinset,then close the caps. It's an aid,not a fix-all lol. If a piece is really bowed,I'll add a few more clips in areas. It won't pull a bow out,esp as these are 3/8" thick.

Possibly you used the wrong color clips,and/or tile wasn't gauged,and/or tile thickness wasn't condusive for using that system? I've found that having the right thickness of material,along with the right color clips,plays a big part with the success and quality of the job.

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And to add to that,I explained to jobber and homeowner,what we were dealing with in regards to bow in tile. Had jobber sight it with his eye etc etc....and explained to both of em how I would typically install a wood looking floor,with stagger etc.....and explained to em I WOULD NOT install any pieces with a running bond look to em,as the bow only compounds/doubles when an end piece meets a center of a piece etc.

Homeowner understood and let me proceed,knowing I would do my best to mimic wood floor look

[jondon]

posted by Rich:
What was your "secret" for getting the tile under the one stairrail spindle? Split cut and bracket slide up and down from spindle?

Rich, the customer had already had someone come in to remove the staircase railing in one piece. So it was a non issue, they drilled the holes once they got it back in the slate to attach the newly powder coated and painted railing.

Looks like you are getting close to the finish line.

John, I will respond to your question on taking the bow out, I originally used the TLS then switched over to the MLT because Mick made quite a few improvements in coming up with MLT. The improvements he came up with would be the bigger caps to cover more area on the surface of the tile. You will notice in most of these tuning systems the cap is only covering a little bit a space in between the 2 tiles. The MLT covers a lot more space so move leverage. Mick also came up with the inserts to go in the caps which give you more tension. Reusable straps as well.

The installation I just posted with the 12X24 slate on the floor, I used the MLT since the most warpage is at the 50% offset. I could have gone 30% but the customer wanted 50% and it is most pleasing to the eye. With tuning systems the misconception is you are taking the bow out of the tile that isn't possible. What you are doing is bringing the two tiles closer together to create a joint with no lippage. I have used the MLT many times and when there was no way I could make tiles flush to each other with the bowing I pulled them together with the MLT. The manufacturers will have to take the bowing out though I guess they haven't figured it out.

I know the TCNA has standards for tile strength and such like the Robinson Flooring test, have they come up with one for allowable bowing in a tile we consider large format in this day and age or do we have to install whatever they churn out and do it perfectly. As always the installers on the low end of the totem pole take the fall for in the inability of the industry to have standards for the amount of allowable warpage in a tile. Point is there shouldn't be any warpage, if they can't control the bowing in the tile they shouldn't be making the tile so hard. We should go back to when the tile was softer and without all the warpage.

The answer by the manufacturers is to do the 30% offset. Many don't want that pattern I personally hate it but this is their answer since they can't make tile without the warpage in.

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Good points Jon I did think of the entire staircase being removed...but that would be too easy

I have seen,and used over the years,flat,non-bowed porcelain wood looking planks,in length of up to 4'. Almost all of those have been of the rectified flavor....and anywhere from 1-2 dollars higher in price per ft,compared to other apples in the orchard.

It can be manufactured/produced(flat,non-bowed material)but my exp has been,the price reflects what you pay for.

What I have seen too,is warning notations on side of boxes,telling you to set it no bigger than thirds etc,as the manufacturers are aware of warped tile/s lol.

This latest job I'm on,has no such warning on boxes,so it's ok to install in any fashion I see fit? grin

[John K]

Rich,

Yeah you're probably right. The gauging could have been off. I had the red ones .

All I know is that's the biggest plank I've seen, lol.

Jon,

I understand your points. I've used Ramondi and Qep. MLT seems like the hot ticket but its pretty expensive.


John

[dhagin]

Rich.

I like the angled planks. Looking forward to how it looks finished.

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Pulled off yesterday,on account the demo peeps "Dust Hogs" came back and painted the slider tracks,that they marred up. Gave I some much needed free time,to catch up on things around the house etc.

Today I cut in/dry laid pieces going next to outdoor slider/s. Tomorrow will set that area,along with cut n set risers going to inside of house.

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Few more

[dhagin]

That's a cool lookin floor, and those sure are some long wedges.

[MNTileGuy]

Bows aside, that's some nice looking tile, Rich! Good job.

Speaking of offset requirements, I saw printed on a box of tile awhile back that they recommend a 15% offset. At that point, you might was well just give up and lay them straight.

Shame on the manufacturers that produce this bowed stuff. I've used large format tiles that were pretty darned flat, so it's possible.

[Houston Remodeler]

Took some pictures today while waiting for the mechanical HVAC inspector. This is half of a rental duplex.

$1.60 / sf plank from home burrito, tobacco brown CBP powered grout, SCG enhancing sealer over Ardex liquid backer board.

[MNTileGuy]

Not too shabby there, Paul!

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2 short days,as I set the risers and used C clamps to help pull out warpage,so let em set overnight,and set treads and clean washed floor today. Tomorrow grout/detail,and go back to other job and grout. Think I'll be strickly grouting things for a week lol