Bathroom remodel questions

[SusieG]

I've been thinking about remodeling my master bath for a couple of years now...reading and lurking here gives me great ideas, but scares me too. It's to the point, where I really need to get this done.

I've done lots of tile work, but nothing with stone, which I really would like to do in my bath, at least on the floor (maybe porcelain in the shower). I would also like to incorporate some Glass Block into the design. The more I read here, the more I realize how little I know. Here are my starting questions:
1. Glass block - want to do at least part of the surround with GB, probably on a knee wall. Does the floor/wall need any extra support to support the GB? I'll probably have a maximum of 56 8x8x4 blocks. I'm not sure what's under the existing tile now -- I may wait until I get it ripped up to look, since I hate going into the crawlspace. I realize that I may have to bolster the existing framing to suport any stone, but want to make sure it will hold the GB, too.
2. Can I cut/install tile to cap the glass block (as opposed to using the ultra-expensive, but not necesarily matching caps that the GB manufacturers sell)?
3. I will be doing a complete tear-out of the "faux marble" shower and tub surrounds and re-installing with Kerdi. What is the sequence of installation -- do I install the glass block first, do I Kerdi first, install the GB, then tile up to the glass block, or do I install the glass block after I finish tiling?

I really want to avoid any opportunity for mold/mildew to move back in, so am looking for any way to avoid it -- including the Dilex cove pieces for corners/base areas as opposed to caulk. No matter what caulk I use here in Arkansas, it quickly starts turning black. We do squeegee our shower every time -- my original plan was to do the whole thing in Corian or fiberglass to get away from the mold, but I really like the look of tile so much I decided to give the Kerdi a try.

Thanks for your help, comments, opinions, etc. You guys/gals are the best and want to hear what you have to say about it all.

[Kirk Grodske]

Make sure to put in a bath fan on a timer so it runs for a while after you leave the room.

[SusieG]

Thanks - I do plan to upgrade the fan, but I am not sure it's humidity in the air (we have kept a dehumidifier in there for the last year or so). It's probably a shower construction issue, which is why I'm gung-ho about the Kerdi!

[Kirk Grodske]

have you read the posts in the Liberry section above and ordered and read John's book yet? These two things will give you a big leg up on understanding the process you are about to embark on.

[SusieG]

Yes. I've owned TYW for a couple of years and read through it at least twice (thought I was going to start this project two years ago, but got sidetracked by others). I've also read quite a bit on this forum - tons of information here!

I'm fairly confident in my skills -- I've done two showers, three floors, some backsplashes and countertops but just with porcelain tile, not stone, and they didn't have existing "issues" that needed repairing like I have now (mildew in shower and a cracked tile on the floor, which makes me worry that the floor/subfloor is not solid enough). My biggest concern is probably the glass block and making sure that I integrate that correctly.

Also, I want to make sure I plan this well in advance, so I don't completely annoy my husband by keeping his shower out of commission too long! He's not a bath guy, and our other shower is our tween daughter's, so he doesn't relish having to share with her and all her "stuff."

[Kirk Grodske]

Sound like you got a handle on it. Time to crawl under the floor and see what is there.

Tell hubby it will take longer than planned, but you will give him sponge baths to make up for it. That should calm him down.

Unless you can find someone who can do it all, it will take time to coordinate the various trades to do what you cannot. That is a big factor is why it will take longer than expected.

[SusieG]

Hi - does anyone have any Glass Block wisdom to share with me?

1. Max deflection for tile and GB or stone and GB?
2. Can I cut/install tile to cap the glass block (as opposed to using the ultra-expensive, but not necesarily matching caps that the GB manufacturers sell)?
3. What is the sequence of installation -- do I install the glass block first, do I Kerdi first, install the GB, then tile up to the glass block, or do I install the glass block after I finish tiling?

THANKS.

[Mike2]

Susie, joist deflection requirements are dictated by the type of tile you set on the floor outside the shower. The use of glass block per se is not a determining factor. If ceramic/porcelain floor tile is used, then L/360 is your goal to meet. If its natural stone, then it's L/720. Natural stone also requires a two-layer sub-floor totaling 1-1/8" or more combined thickness.

I'm going to give you a link to the Photo Album, here: http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33831. Once there go to the Bathroom section then scroll down to the last two posts where you will see examples of glass block showers others have done. The first example is a case where the tile was set before the GB. And tile was also used as GB caps. In the second case, Tim's Kerdi shower, the glass block was set before the tile. Tim also used tile to cap off the block.

Both of those glass block examples contain links to the project thread where construction details are discussed in more detail, with pictures too of course.

[SusieG]

Thanks for the link Mike...and thanks to all of you who document your projects for the rest of us. Beautiful work!

I guess I need to go into the crawlspace and see what's under there...yikes.

[opiethetileman]

what about glass block? other than its expensive and a PIA. and one major rule with block dont be in no darn hurry or you will have the leaning wall of block.

[SusieG]

Thanks for the input so far. Am still considering the glass block, but have questions about the shower construction. I've never put in a new tray...only messed with the walls before.

I originally planned to get the Kerdi "shower kit" complete with the 48" tray, which would mean having the plumber come out to move my drain pipe 3/4" to the left and 1/2" toward the front -- which I was willing to do, because it just seemed too easy to use the preformed tray (and I have a wood subfloor over a crawlspace). After reading some threads about problems with the Kerdi tray (one in the Pro's hangout), I'm rethinking that option. Am I better off just doing a mortar bed preslope instead of the foam tray? I keep reading that it's "easy", but that's a relative term. Tell me what you think.

By the way, I ventured into the crawlspace (eek), and my house is way better built than I imagined -- 2 x 10 (nominal) joists with 6' span under that part of the house. I'll probably just use a Crossville porcelain instead of the stone, but at least that's good news.

Here's my last question of the day (or hour) - how much height would a radiant heat system add to the floor?

Thanks for all the help! And by the way, I love looking at all the pictures you all post here -- some real artisans out there.

[ddmoit]

Hi Susie,

There are a few good reasons why you might not want to use the pre-formed Kerdi tray. The compression issue in that thread you mentioned is not one of them.

If your dimensions do not easily conform to the tray, I wouldn't use it.

If your drain is not perfectly centered, I wouldn't use it.

If your subfloor is not perfectly flat and level, the effort required to make it so may be more difficult than building a mud pan. Again, I wouldn't use it.

Otherwise, it is a reputable product with thousands of successful installations.

[SusieG]

Thanks, Dan.
(a) yes - 48 x 48 is fine
(b) no - I'd have to move it, even though it would be slightly
(c) don't know
I'm assuming that if I answer no to any of the above, I shouldn't use the pre-formed tray. I can do the mud pre-slope, right? Sure I can.

Thanks for the input!

[John Bridge]

Susie,

As they say at the Home Depot, "You can do it. We can help." We really can, though.

I've just completed a steam shower using the foam tray, and I'm obviously very content with the product. If your shower is a little smaller than 48 by 48 you could easily trim the tray to make it fit the current drain location. You might do this even if you have a perfect 48x48 by trimming two sides and filling in their opposites with deck mud.

But yes, you too can build a mud floor.

[SusieG]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, John! You always make it sound rather easy (I've got your book and e-book and can't stop re-reading them), it's just the unknown for me. So I'll dive in as soon as I decide on the tile and get it ordered. I'll count on your crew will throw me a lifesaver if I get in too deep.