Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 01-08-2009, 09:26 AM   #1
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
Crokett's Bathroom Project

Next month I will be moving the guest bath. I will tile the floor and the tub surround. My previous experience is tiling a floor over concrete and tilling a kitchen counter and backsplash. The existing floor is cruddy linoleum over 3/4" ply. I played with the deflectometer and don't see a problem with deflection on the floor. My plan for the floor is to remove the linoleum, then add thinset, then screw down 1/2" CBU and mud/tape the seams. The existing walls are 70s wood paneling. When I did the kitchen backsplash I screwed 1/4" CBU to the walls then used mastic to stick the tiles there. It had a higher tack than thinset and the tiles didn't slide/fall off the wall.

Two questions:
Can I screw the 1/4" CBU directly over the paneling for the tub surround or will there be moisture issues behind the CBU? Is mastic ok there or should I use thinset? The tub surround will get a lot wetter than the backsplash did. The paneling can come off if it has to.
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 01-08-2009, 10:26 AM   #2
amdskip
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 48
I would remove the paneling. You also need to keep in mind that paneling is thinner than drywall so you will see the cement board along the edges of the tub surround.

You need to use thinset for the surround.
__________________
-Jeff
amdskip is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 10:49 AM   #3
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
I'd reserve the 1/2" backerboard for the walls, and use 1/4" board on the floors.

I, too, would remove the paneling, then see what's behind it. If drywall, you can tack 4 or 6 mil poly sheeting to it, then put up the 1/2" backerboard, You can use "mud caps" to cover the edges. You can also remove the sheetrock, hang the sheeting and backerboard, then tile for a flush look. A lot depends on how well the tub's nailing flange is recessed into the studs.

While there are some mastics that would work in a tub surround, thinset is cheaper and there are many more that I'd trust than mastics.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 11:07 AM   #4
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
There is nothing behind the paneling. If I remove it I am down to the studs. So it sounds like I should remove the paneling, then attach 6mill sheeting to the studs, then attach the the 1/2" backerboard? Should the sheeting be hung in front of or behind the nailing flange on the tub? I assume in front of so if any moisture does make it through the tile it runs down the sheeting and back into the tub?

Since I will be installing the tub I can recess it as well as it needs to be recessed into the studs. The rest of the room will have drywall installed over the paneling. I think the thickness will come close to matching the thickness of the backerboard.
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 11:17 AM   #5
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Poly in front of the flange, then trimmed flush with bottom of backerboard.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 11:40 AM   #6
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
Ok, one final question. The tub will most likely be plastic. Can I grout between the top edge of the tub and the bottom course of tile or use something flexible? I am concerned with the tub flexing and cracking the grout.
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 12:22 PM   #7
ddmoit
Veteran DIYer -- Schluterville Graduate
 
ddmoit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SE Tennessee
Posts: 8,884
It's best to caulk that joint, David. Even with a metal tub, it tends to flex and crack if grout is used.

When you do caulk it, fill the tub with water first. Leave the water in for 24 hours while the caulk cures.
__________________
Dan - a DIYer in SE Tennessee
ddmoit is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 12:57 PM   #8
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
Thanks for all the replies. Last question (for now anyway)

For the plastic, I will staple it on and tape any seams. Do I need to make provisions for sealing the staples and/or screw holes when I screw the backerboard on?
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2009, 01:02 PM   #9
ddmoit
Veteran DIYer -- Schluterville Graduate
 
ddmoit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SE Tennessee
Posts: 8,884
Don't worry about staple or nail holes in the plastic.
__________________
Dan - a DIYer in SE Tennessee
ddmoit is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-17-2009, 09:51 PM   #10
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
Ok a couple more questions....

I used mastic when I did the kitchen backsplash because with thinset the tile kept falling off the wall. I know I need to use thinset for the tub surround. Assuming the thinset is properly mixed, the tile should stick to the wall with no other mechanical help, no? Should I burn the thinset onto the CBU before combing it with the notched trowel? Should I burn thinset onto the tiles?

My wife picked up some ceramic soap dishes, etc. If I wanted to frame in niches, can I just tile those with the same field tile or is there a pre-manufactured option?
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-18-2009, 03:00 PM   #11
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
More Tiling Questions

Ok a couple more questions....

I used mastic when I did the kitchen backsplash because with thinset the tile kept falling off the wall. I know I need to use thinset for the tub surround. Assuming the thinset is properly mixed, the tile should stick to the wall with no other mechanical help, no? Should I burn the thinset onto the CBU before combing it with the notched trowel? Should I burn thinset onto the tiles before sticking them on the wall?

My wife picked up some ceramic soap dishes and large (6"x6") corner shelf. Is thinset enough to hold this on while setting or does it need support. If I wanted to frame in niches, can I just tile those with the same field tile or is there a pre-manufactured option?
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-18-2009, 05:36 PM   #12
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,956
David, please don't start new threads with the same questions. If you don't get a timely response on your thread, make another post to bump it to the top of the queue for attention. Starting new threads causes confusion and duplication of effort on the part of our unpaid helpers. We know it gets slow hereabouts sometimes, 'specially on weekends, but please be patient with us.

Thinset, properly mixed, will not allow tiles to fall off the wall. It's a good idea to burn in the thinset before notching. Backbuttering the tiles is usually not necessary but can't hurt if you wanna do that.

You can frame niches in any size and shape that suits you and tile them with the same tile you're using elsewhere.

Many shelves and soap dishes and such require support while the thinset cures. Masking tape and tile spacers are usually adequate.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-18-2009, 07:27 PM   #13
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
I won't start any more new threads on this topic. I may have more questions as I think about what can go wrong while I do the installation.
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-31-2009, 01:42 PM   #14
crokett
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central NC
Posts: 38
Another question... I can find tiles radiused for outside corners. Do they make them for inside corners? If not, is there a preferred way to set the tile in the corners of the tub surround? Should the long wall go on first, should the ends go on first or does it not matter?

I will have progress pics next week I hope. Initial demo was done this morning and the plumber should do the rough in this week.
__________________
David

The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
crokett is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-31-2009, 02:08 PM   #15
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,956
Such things exist, David, but generally not in whatever size or style or color tile you wanna pewt on your wall. So sayeth Murphy.

The order of placement is dealer's choice. I think you'll find a majority opinion that doing the back wall first with the end gaps covered by the end walls makes for the better look. But it ain't gonna be unanimous and it ain't gonna be for every application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
JohninPA's Ditra Bathroom Floor Project JohninPA Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 09-28-2010 07:49 AM
Jeff Scott's Master Bathroom Project Jeff Scott Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 10-10-2008 04:14 AM
Bathroom Tile Project: Plan and Questions DumbUnusedID Tile Forum/Advice Board 9 09-18-2008 06:41 PM
2nd bathroom Project DIWoops! Tile Forum/Advice Board 18 08-31-2008 07:36 PM
Aaron's Basement Bathroom Project aaronspang Tile Forum/Advice Board 20 04-15-2007 07:52 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:03 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC