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Unread 01-23-2021, 11:35 AM   #61
ss3964spd
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The primary advantage to Advantech, Matt, is that it has a coating on it to resist moisture during the house building process, when a sub floor might be open to the elements for a short period.

Doesn't apply in your case.

Your first sub floor layer should be 3/4" T&G plywood or OSB, followed by 1/2" B/C exterior glue ply.
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Unread 01-23-2021, 02:57 PM   #62
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Would Advantech as the first layer with CDX on top work? I don’t know if the problem I’m having is non-standardized terminology or what, but the folks at Lowe’s seemed pretty mystified by my queries and couldn’t t assure me that the sheathing they sell was suitable (and CX, you thought not) and even the guys at the building supply place didn’t quite seem to understand what I meant by “exterior glue” plywood... they thought CDX and Advantech are what they’ve got that would work for my situation.

I’m sorry for all the back and forth questions, just really want to avoid mistakes that will cause problems down the road.
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Unread 01-23-2021, 03:25 PM   #63
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Advantech would be fine for the 1st layer, though costly, but you don't want CDX for the 2nd. The "CD" in CDX stand for the two face grades; C and D. C is fine for one side, D is not due to the high potential for D grade veneer having voids.

B/C Exterior, or B/C Exp 1 is common in the BBS's here in the states. It has a B grade veneer on one side, a C grade on the other, and water resistant glue bonding all the plys together. That's what you want, installed with the B side up.
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Unread 01-24-2021, 10:35 AM   #64
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Got it sorted. Thanks so much for this info, gentlemen! Would you normally screw the second layer only into the first layer or all the way into the joists?
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Unread 01-24-2021, 10:50 AM   #65
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You want to fasten the second layer only to the first layer, avoiding the joists, Matt. In our Liberry you'll find a good article showing what I consider the very best method of installing that second layer.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 08:09 AM   #66
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Great article. Thanks, CX!
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Unread 02-01-2021, 08:28 AM   #67
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Oh, and the article doesn’t mention gluing the second layer of plywood in addition to screwing it down. Does this mean you wouldn’t normally glue that second layer in this kind of two-layer application? I’ve glued my first layer to the joists, FWIW.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 08:56 AM   #68
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Gluing the 1st layer to the joists is appropriate, gluing the 2nd to the first, not so much. IF you were to do so you'd want to coat the 1st layer completely, no using anything that comes out of a tube, as those gunned beads will quite likely leave voids between them and might prevent the 2nd layer from being in full contact on the 1st.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 09:02 AM   #69
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Gotcha. Thanks!
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Unread 02-08-2021, 05:23 PM   #70
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Next phase of this project is building out the shower pan. Planning to do a mud pan and cover it with Kerdi. I’ve been reading other threads and hunting through John’s book trying to figure out if the procedure for this would be to put the mud bed over lath but so far have struck out.

Any thoughts on whether to use lath for a one-piece pan that’s getting the waterproofing on top rather than a pre-slope?
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Unread 02-08-2021, 09:07 PM   #71
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Matt, if you're installing the mud floor over a wood framed floor you must lay down a cleavage membrane and staple down expanded metal lath of at lest 2.5lb. per yard weight before placing your mud.
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Unread 02-08-2021, 09:54 PM   #72
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Thanks CX. that makes sense. What about over a concrete slab?
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Unread 02-08-2021, 10:00 PM   #73
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Oh, and what does “2.5 lb per yard weight” refer to in this situation? I’m not familiar with that spec.

I have enough leftover of the diamond metal lath I used under the SLC on this last project that I could use that if it’s suitable. Cleavage membrane is roofing felt/tarpaper or similar?

Does the felt get affixed anyway particular or do the staples that keep the lath down also serve that purpose?
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Unread 02-08-2021, 10:35 PM   #74
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That's the physical weight of the material, Matt, and it's usually on a tag tied to a bundle of the stuff and it's generally what I've found at Homer's and at masonry supply houses known to me. You rarely run into the heavier 3.4lb stuff, but sometimes find 1.75lb material and I'd not hesitate to use the 1.75 in a shower application if that's what's readily available to you. Unless you've used the stuff in past you're not likely to notice the difference between the 2.5 and the 1.75lb material. You will notice if you get holt of some 3.4lb material.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Last edited by cx; 04-16-2021 at 07:39 AM. Reason: Typo
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Unread 02-13-2021, 04:37 PM   #75
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Related question: when building a shower curb out of two-by material, would the strategy usually be to fasten the curb wood through the subfloor to the joists, or only to the subfloor?

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