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Unread 03-18-2021, 07:57 AM   #61
ss3964spd
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The hot mud and alkali resistant mesh tape are fine, Mike, but in a wet area I'd not want the paint, regardless of type.
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Unread 03-19-2021, 06:54 PM   #62
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Wohooo more progress accomplished today.
Got my vanity in and my plumbing all hooked up.

Soon it’s on to tiling the shower and then grout.
Then a dab of caulk here and there and to mount tp holder along with towel holders then I’m done.
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Unread 03-25-2021, 08:03 PM   #63
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Use of PolyBlend

I had used PolyBlend grout on my downstairs bathroom shower tile and I was not very pleased with it.
Color consistency wasn’t what I expected. Could be blotchy imho.
Now when I did my tile on my floor upstairs in the bathroom I am currently doing I used Flexcolor CQ and was very pleased very it. No variation in color, easy to apply etc.

I am moving on to starting my shower wall tile and thinking ahead on grout.
I have plenty I think of the CQ left over so, was going to go with that.
It’s stated Flexcolor CQ is fine for intermittent wet areas and even mentions shower walls so, would that be a ok choice or would I be better off with say Ultracolor FA?
Keep in mind I am not doing a shower floor just tiled shower walls.

Thanks
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Unread 03-25-2021, 09:34 PM   #64
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You can use either grout in that application, Mike.
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Unread 03-26-2021, 01:14 AM   #65
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Ok, thanks CX
I think I will stick with the CQ as I really liked it.
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Unread 03-31-2021, 10:16 AM   #66
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Ran into a snag

Ok, I liked the tile I did on the floor so much I thought I would just do the shower walls in it as well.
The problem is a 50% brick pattern (what I did on floor) won’t really work to well as it leaves little piece on both edges every other row.

The side walls in question measure 31” and the tile is 23 3/4 long.

Would doing a 1/3 brick pattern look weird being the floor is a 50% brick pattern?

Should I just look for a smaller tile that I could do a 50% brick pattern (like the white 8x16 pictured).

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Unread 03-31-2021, 11:33 AM   #67
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That would be a question only you and Mrs. Mike can answer, Mike.

You sure you have a moisture barrier lapped over that receptor tiling flange?
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Unread 03-31-2021, 01:00 PM   #68
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Quote:
CX; You sure you have a moisture barrier lapped over that receptor tiling flange?
You don’t see it CX?
I ain’t purity but, it should work.
Plus, I have a habit of always drying off shower walls with bath towel when done showering so, I reckon I’m golden.

As far as the Mrs. as in “brother where art thou” she done runnoft. LOL

I was looking for more of a professional opinion as I have stated before I am not a tile guy but, to me I am in the opinion it would look odd with lil pieces flanking that big tile and not what a tile guy who does layouts all the time would do or recommend.
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Unread 03-31-2021, 03:35 PM   #69
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I see what appears to be a gap in your moisture barrier in the corner in the second photo. Bozo no-no. Needs to be a full coverage membrane behind the entire shower wall and drape over the tiling flange on the drain side. I always let mine drape over a foot or so (doing mud walls) and down into the tub/receptor to help protect it. Trim it off later just before installing the bottom row of tile.
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Originally Posted by Mike
But, from reading Redguard won’t adhere to the sealed hotmud which went to far over.
Don't know what you might be reading, Mike, but RedGard will adhere quite well to your hot mud (don't know what you mean by sealed), it's just not on Custom's list of suitable substrates in wet areas. Doesn't mean it wouldn't work, just means they don't recommend it. Your thinset mortar manufacturer won't recommend bonding your tiles to the gypsum, either. Different kinda problem.

The moisture sandwhich is quite real. The harm it might do in any given situation is frequently in question.

When you have a hot, wet area such as a shower in use, and a cooler, drier area such as the wall cavity behind the shower wall, you establish a vapor drive wherein the warm water vapor wants desperately to be in the cool dry place. No magic involved there, just basic physics.

In your case, some moisture vapor (real little, skinny molecules) would penetrate the direct bonded waterproofing membrane you might put on the inside of the CBU shower walls. The CBU would slow them down almost not at all and they'd come to the moisture barrier on the other side. If that moisture barrier is something like polyethylene sheeting the moisture vapor is gonna stop and, depending on ambient factors in the wall cavity, the moisture vapor is gonna reach it's dew point and condense into real water again. Not much water, probably, just a tiny bit. But once there, it has no incentive at all to try to get through the poly vapor barrier material, and even less incentive to go back into the shower. So.....it'll do the only thing it knows how to do and gravity feed toward the bottom of the wallboard.

Doesn't sound too scary? No, I don't think so, either. The CBU doesn't care at all and there's probably no food anywhere in there with which to create any mold and nothing might happen at all. For the first few years at least. But you're gonna be adding to that moisture for thirty years. Maybe several times a day. And you'll probably follow the tile industry recommendation and caulk the tile/tub joint at the bottom so the moisture can't escape. And then.....? I duuno. I just try not to create such situations 'cause it's easy not to, eh?

My loooong opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-31-2021, 06:07 PM   #70
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Quote:
CX; I see what appears to be a gap in your moisture barrier in the corner in the second photo. Bozo no-no. Needs to be a full coverage membrane behind the entire shower wall and drape over the tiling flange on the drain side. I always let mine drape over a foot or so (doing mud walls) and down into the tub/receptor to help protect it. Trim it off later just before installing the bottom row of tile
Nope there is full coverage (a close up for ya)
Granted not in the excess as you would do it.


But, I do like the idea of running it over pan so you got tons of extra.

There is a seam back behind the wall where the two mil pieces meet and is stapled tight to the 2x4 though. I reckon it should be ok. After all the old shower was 70+ years old done with laminated 1x3 cement board then thinset and tile with zero vapor barrier and there was no damage to 2x4s etc.
The only damage was bottom left corner outside of tub 2x4 where water musta dripped of tub ledge and was wicked up by corner 2x4.

Like I said I am no tile guy and have zero aspirations of being one (although I respect the trade) I am just a diy’er trying to make my bathroom look good last until I kick the bucket, perform as it should and not be PINK.
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Unread 04-12-2021, 10:34 PM   #71
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Ok, finally decided (I think) on my wall tile.

So, this seems like decent tile but, it’s not as flat as I would hoped as it has a lil bow to it but, not bad (less then credit card).It’s a 8x16 porcelain that measures 7 7/8 x 15 1/2.
I made a story pole because I wanted to get an exact representation of where my tile will fall in relation to control valve etc etc.
I plan on starting off on second row with a level ledger board.

But, problem is if I go with a full piece of tile at the top (that’s what Isaac Ostrooms “TileCoach” does or likes) it leaves maybe a couple inches at the bottom but, at least allows me to flow over the shower pan edges with that one solid piece.
Now, I could take two inches outta top then I would have roughly 4” at ledge of pan and still be able to have a complete piece at pan lip edge to floor overhang (see pic. on how tile goes out past pan).

So, a couple questions for you tile guys who do this day in day out.

1. Seeing what I have as far as my story pole (see pic) how exactly would you lay this out to look best in your opinion?

2. Is it feasible to go with a 1/8 spacer/joint line although on box recommends 3/16.

3. Would I get by using the same Ramondi wedge leveling kit (that I used on my floor) enough to to take up the lil bow (cannot push a credit card under tile on a flat level) (see pic) to do a 50% brick pattern?

4. What can I use to fill the gap between tile and flange where there is no CBU (last pic left of level area)?
Things l like Kerdi fix ? over some alkaline resistant mesh etc?
I am pretty sure I will hear it’s not needed though is that correct as that 1+ gap isn’t big enough to cause any structural loss to tile the overlaps it?

Thanks in advance.
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Unread 04-13-2021, 02:57 PM   #72
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Mike,

IMO, while a pleasing, balanced layout would be great I'd let form follow function. I'd absolutely want the bottom row to be able to "flow over the shower pan edges with that one solid piece" as much as possible, especially with that void there.

You're going to see those bottom tiles way more than you will the top.

As far as 1/8" vs. 3/16", depends on the tiles. If they are really close in length and width, I mean really close you can probably tighten up the joint to 1/8". FWIW, my 12X24's were very accurate in size so I used 1/16th joints for the wall tiles.

The leveling kit will help take some of the bow out, yes, but can't work miracles. Again, depends on how flat the tile is and your tolerance of lippage. Almost a credit card's thickness seems a bit much.

I don't think there's much you can do to fill those voids at this point. So long as the tile is large tall enough that there is, say, a good two inches of tile on the wall above the void. I think I do see a small opening where the pan's flange ends, so you'd definitely want to seal that with something like KF.
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Unread 04-13-2021, 08:32 PM   #73
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Ok, thanks Dan.
The bow isn’t a CC thickness as it won’t slide under it on a quality level used as straightedge but, it does bow some.
I haven’t broken out my feeler gauges yet to see how much. ??

I will pick up some Kerdi Fix if my local supplier has it to fill that lil gap.

I had planned to do a ledger but, I think I will set first row and make sure they are level then let set a day or so then get on it.

I started cutting out my pieces today for the bottom row.

The reason I asked about filling void was I was reading this post attached.
He uses mesh & Wedi to fill the gap. Is that not a smart thing to do?
https://www.diytileguy.com/tile-tub-flange-gap/
Anyhow, I have a tad over 2” or so above void so it should be ok either way I am hoping.

Thanks and how’s that car doing? Sure hope we have more car shows to attend this year. Thanks to COVID or should I say silly state guidelines there where very few last year.
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Unread 04-14-2021, 07:37 AM   #74
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While it won't hurt to fill that void I just don't think you've much to gain from doing so. You could probably cut and shape a piece of....something, but not likely cement board, to fill that void, then mesh and liquid membrane it into place. But you can't really fasten it to anything behind since the plastic sheeting is there. But you definitely want to fill/seal what appears to be a small opening, see circle in pic.

Haven't even dusted the car off yet. Last couple of time I had it out it needed to be flat-bedded back due to a heat related ignition issue. Of course as soon as it was rolled off the flat bed it started right up. Both times. I know what the offending part is just haven't ordered it yet.
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Unread 04-14-2021, 09:26 PM   #75
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She’s, a beauty on the flatbed or not. Sent you a PM btw.

I was gonna do a 50% brick pattern but, layout wise it was not looking so great as to many small pieces.
Then I turned the tiles the other way and I was like hmmm I kinda like that.
But, although I have never done a stacked pattern it looks (or should) rather neat if I say so myself.

So, glad I listened to SS3964spd about him telling me my other wall tiles seemed excessive in bow etc. This new tile I got today in this picture seems like a much higher quality tile. Nice and flat and they recommend a 1/16 grout line. Although it cost quite a bit more too.


I will only have to trim 5 tiles on back wall 1/4+- one side then trim both sides 1/4+- on the jolly side of side walls.
So, 15 cuts plus cutouts for valve and shower head.

I do have to move jolly strips to edge versus taking them an inch or so further outside as planned but, who cares.
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