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Unread 08-03-2022, 07:39 AM   #1
Mirage_Man
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Shower reno in mobile home. (NEWB needs guidance)

Hello all. Just a quick introduction.. My name is Brian. I live in Florida. I'm fairly experienced in many phases of construction from framing, drywall, cabinetry, trim, flooring, painting, electrical etc.. However, a couple of areas that I have little experience with are plumbing and tile. I like to do things right the first time so I'd rather do my research and have a plan rather than go off half cocked. So here I am hoping to get guidance from you guys. I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos and read through many threads here on the forum but still have questions.

So I am renovating a 1970's mobile home and just started to tackle the master bathroom shower. It's the last major project outside the flooring that I need to do. The shower is on one of the exterior corners of the mobile home. I've already demoed the old shower, mostly. It has a soffit that I think I'm going to remove because on the right side of the shower is a flimsy 2x3 framed section that I'm sure was built to fit the fiberglass shower pan that was originally used. So I'm going to remove it to gain access to the 2x4 framed exterior wall.

I plan to remove and replace the subfloor as there is some rot and water damage. I'll probably do two layers of 3/4" plywood and beef up the framing underneath. The floor joists are 2x6's 24"on center. Gotta love mobile homes!

The tile I will be using is a porcelain 12x24 for the walls and a porcelain hexagon for the floor.

At this point the plan is to use 1/2" hardie board for the walls, a mud bed and pvc shower liner for the floor. That said I'm open to suggestions.

I've attached a few pictures of where I'm at now. More demo to come.

Thanks in advance for your help!

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Unread 08-03-2022, 08:16 AM   #2
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Welcome, Brian.

If you don't add that geographic location to your User Profile, the information will be lost before we leave this page and the information is frequently helpful.

When you start remodeling manufactured housing, you'll find you're pretty much on your own as far as building code, or lack thereof, and manufacturing standards. Your outside wall framing in your shower, for example, won't meet the required L/360 deflection for ceramic tile installation. Your options are usually to correct the situation or tile over what you've got and accept the potential risk. This structure is sitting on a permanent foundation?

Same is true for your floor structure. We've (TYW) seen examples where the floor joists actually would meet L/360, but frequently that's not the case or it's difficult to even determine because of the construction methods.

Two layers of nominal 3/4" plywood would be overkill for the subfloor deflection between joists, of course, but would still not improve the joist deflection if that's deficient. A first layer of 3/4" and a second layer of 1/2" would save a bit of height and work and be sufficient over 24" joist centers. Your current first layer is likely a particle board or MDF material, which is never a good thing, so replacing that with plywood or OSB is always a good idea.

All a matter of risk tolerance, of course, and that's completely up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-03-2022, 08:45 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. I'll admit I have no clue about deflection requirements. I am however generally an overkill advocate. So that said what is recommended for the exterior walls in my situation to limit potential problems?

The mobile is a triple wide on blocks but has been in its current location for 50+ years.

Yes the current subfloor is particle board which I am going to remove. I've already had to remove and replace much of it throughout the mobile home. As to the two layers of 3/4" plywood.. My plan was to frame in a layer flush with the top of the floor joists and then the second layer at the same level as the existing subfloor. So it will appear to be one layer but actually two. That way the height isn't affected.

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Unread 08-03-2022, 10:37 AM   #4
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Nominal 2x4 wood stud framing on 16" centers at 8-foot height will meet the wall deflection requirement (same deflection (L/360) requirement as floor framing, just different loading requirement) for ceramic tile installation. Your current framing probably does not, but I can't be sure of that from over here. Will you ever exceed that loading in your shower walls? I dunno. You can tile over anything you're comfortable with, of course. Your stud spacing is 16" or less?

Your subfloor plan is fine, so long as your joist deflection is within the L/360 requirement using standard load calculations.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-03-2022, 11:18 AM   #5
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Yep, studs are 16" on center on exterior walls.

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Unread 08-03-2022, 04:24 PM   #6
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So I got the old rotten floor out and started to scab in some wood around the perimeter of the opening to support the new sub floor.

I put a level on the studs and what a surprise, none of them are plumb. The walls themselves are fairly square though so that's a good thing. My question is would it be a good idea to go ahead and scab new 2x4's onto the existing studs and make everything plumb? Or is there another way to go about it?

Also, planning ahead for the pvc pan liner I've seen it recommended to notch out the bottoms of the studs to allow for the extra thickness when it's folded into the corners. Is that just on the studs in the corners or all of them all along the bottom of the walls?
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Unread 08-03-2022, 06:47 PM   #7
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Hi Brian,

I’m a big fan of tile shower floor but in your case I’d recommend a fiberglass base. Mobile homes are built to a different standard and movement in the foundation base is a common occurrence.

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Unread 08-03-2022, 07:24 PM   #8
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PC, I totally understand why you say that. It had a fiberglass pan that I took out. I've spoken with a contractor friend of mine that works with mobile homes quite a bit. He said that he's done this before and as long as I use two layers of 3/4" ply and make sure the framing is plenty beefy I should be fine.
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Unread 08-04-2022, 08:41 AM   #9
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After some more research and consideration I think I am going to go with a fiberglass or acrylic pan.
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Unread 08-04-2022, 05:31 PM   #10
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I understand your disappointment. On the bright side there is lot of opportunity to do cool tile work on the shower walls!
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Unread 08-14-2022, 05:49 PM   #11
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Hydro Ban on plywood sub floor under preslope?

Is it a bad idea to paint Hydro Ban or other waterproofing on the plywood subfloor prior to preslope? The data sheet say not to use on interior grade plywood but it's OK for exterior grade plywood. I assume it has to due with an interaction with the glue?
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Unread 08-14-2022, 06:04 PM   #12
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I've combined you with your original thread for the project, Bryan, for continuity and so folks can see what's been previously asked and answered.

You've decided to make a traditional shower receptor rather than use a pre-formed fiberglass or acrylic receptor? That'll work.

Under a shower pre-slope over wood framed floor, you need to install a cleavage membrane and expanded metal lath before placing your mortar. The cleavage membrane serves to prevent the wood subfloor from sucking moisture out of your mortar, and can be something inexpensive, such as roofing felt, polyethylene sheeting, old shower curtain, etc. I suppose the Hydro Ban would serve, but not as well and would be a great deal more expensive.

The plywood requirement for Hydro Ban is that it be exterior glue plywood, which I hope is what you used for your new subfloor. And that it be an interior application, which you do have.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-14-2022, 06:21 PM   #13
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Yes, I decided to go ahead with the traditional mud pan over a fiberglass pan.

I suppose I should have done more research but I have already painted the floor with hydro ban. I USED 3/4" T&G Subfloor plywood. With a ton of 2x4 bracing underneath.

I had planned to use metal lathe with felt backing as well but figured WTH why not paint the floor with hydro ban for an additional layer of protection. And yes, I still have to build in the curb.
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Unread 08-15-2022, 05:51 AM   #14
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I guess at this point I am just concerned that since I've already painted the plywood with the hydro ban that it wasn't a mistake since the plywood isn't "exterior". And as such if I should tear it out and use exterior plywood and skip the hydro ban. I'm going to call laticrete and see what they say.

Edit: just got off the phone with laticrete. They said that not to worry, that if there was no issue with delamination of the plywood while the hydroban was wet that I'm fine. However, that if I staple or nail the lathe to the floor then I'm compromising the waterproofing.
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Unread 08-15-2022, 07:08 AM   #15
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How 'bout you tell us more specifically what plywood you used? If it's not an exterior glue plywood, you have long term concerns there.
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