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Unread 12-28-2009, 11:10 AM   #16
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It appears there are more Mods on this forum than tile experts. I guess you guys need something to keep busy. How about changing the title to: "How to layout tile in a kitchen backsplash?--just ignore the first seven posts about 1/4" Hardibacker."

Tool Guy answered me pretty well. Yes, I know I can't tile directly to the wood.
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Unread 12-28-2009, 11:18 AM   #17
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Randy, for a guy getting free expert advice from mods that are tile experts, you're getting a little un-polite. We volunteer our time to help others, not because we have nothing better to do.

There are plenty of 20-year tile "experts" out there that have far less understanding of this trade than any of the mods here.
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Unread 12-28-2009, 11:35 AM   #18
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Thanks Tool Guy, you were a mod that gave some good advice. I do appreciate it.

I really didn't mean to be obnoxious. I'll admit I was a little irked and didn't understand why my threads needed to be moved and merged. I've been on the WoodNet forum for a long time, and threads never get moved or merged.
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Unread 12-30-2009, 06:40 PM   #19
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Here's a couple new questions. Here is a rough mock-up of the backsplash pattern I think I'm going to do. I will tile to the right edge of the cabinet shown and come straight down to the edge of the lower countertop. The picture doesn't show it but they line up good. The upper countertop on the right is like a bar, so don't pay attention to it. They are 4" tiles and I'm planning the grout spacing to be 3/16." The shiney tile with the metalic diamond will repeat every few tiles or so along the backsplash. My question is about the 12" thin metalic trim pieces. I think they should also have spacing of 3/16" on the top and bottom. Does this sound right? Also, I think the when two trim pieces butt up against each other, the grout spacing should be much tighter so it looks like one long piece, like about 1/16." Does that sound right?

One other question is: one the right side, do I need a border or does it look OK to just leave it like it is in the mock-up? If I need border, I'd rather have something that blends rather than stands out. With that in mind, I could cut some thin strips from 12" tiles that are the same as the 4" tiles I'm using and use those for a border. There are bullnose tiles also available, so if I need a border, would those be better? What I don't like about the bullnose tiles is that the color in the bullnose portion doesn't match the color on the face of the tile.

Thanks for your input.
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Unread 12-30-2009, 07:00 PM   #20
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Randy,

I would keep the joint between the 12" deco pieces tight as possible. Might be tempted to actually epoxy or super glue them together so that they look like a solid piece of metal trim. When I laid out my floor I butted the border pieces so it would have a zero grout joint.

Since the edges of your tiles look like they have a "chiseled" finished edge I think I would leave them as is.

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Unread 01-01-2010, 11:57 AM   #21
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If I'm using 3/16" grout spacing with 4" tiles, what should the spacing be between the tile and the granite countertop? 1/8" or 1/16"? I know I need to caulk this.
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Unread 01-01-2010, 01:44 PM   #22
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I would hold it up an 1/8".
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Unread 01-01-2010, 02:08 PM   #23
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Your tiles are very different in color from your countertop. If you were to use a flexible silicone that matched the grout color (or tile, whichever looked less noticable), it would blend in nicely...I would likely have an 1/8" gap there. But colored silicones are sometimes difficult to obtain. If you need a source, Laticrete makes "Latisil" 100% silicone sealants to match their grout colors. If Laticrete isn't available locally, here's a company called ColorRite that makes ColorSil in 44 different colors.

However, if I couldn't get a color-matched silicone for the bottom corner joint, I'd end up using clear silicone. And in that case, I'd to minimize the dark 1/8" gap that would be visible through the caulk be reducing the gap between the tile and countertop to ~1/16". I know that joint is very likely to crack, but most of the movement is lateral movement coming from the countertop, so I wouldn't mind getting the tile close like this.

As for the bullnose on the ends: Bullnoses typically hide the ugly, unglazed edges of tiles and gives a finished look to perhaps some thick, sharp-edged tiles. If the tiles look nice on their edges, or perhaps aren't too thick, you may be able to avoid the bullnoses and get away with grouting the edge neatly.
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Unread 01-01-2010, 02:48 PM   #24
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Thanks. You can't tell because of the glare in the picture, but there is some coloring in the granite that is the same as my tiles. I'm using Laticrete grout, so the colored caulk should be no problem.

Like I mentioned, the matching bullnose tiles available, change color drastically at the bullnose portion. In other words, the bullnose portion isn't glazed with the color as on the face of the tile. It's like it has been run through a cutter and polished, so the bullnosed part is the color of the cross section of the tile. To me, that looks ugly, and that's why I thought it would look better with the tiles regular edges. On the regular tiles, the unglazed edge is 1/4" thick.
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Unread 01-01-2010, 02:49 PM   #25
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Sounds like you can get away w/o bullnose tiles just fine.
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Unread 01-10-2010, 05:27 PM   #26
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Underneath the cabinet, where the top tiles on the wall meet the bottom of the cabinet, I plan a gap of 1/16". Is this adequate? Should I leave it open, or caulk it?
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Unread 01-10-2010, 10:25 PM   #27
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Randy, a 1/16" joint is close just make sure the two don't touch. I would leave it. Caulk isn't necessary lest you can see it.
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Unread 05-29-2010, 02:24 PM   #28
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***Ignore the thread title, I'm just posting a recap***

I recently finished my kitchen floor and backsplash, so I thought I would post some pictures. First, look at the fireplace, which is across the room from the kitchen. My idea was to tie in the fireplace to the kitchen. It's obvious by the tile and grout. My grout spacing may seem a little wide, but I was trying to emphasize the grout. The floor grout spacing is 1/4" and the backsplash is 3/16". I hope my fireplace idea was a good one.

The grout color really is a medium gray color, as the camera flash seems to make it look much lighter. I wanted to put a decorative tile in the center of the floor, except where is the center? None of the four surrounding cabinet points line up, so I had to put it where it seemed like it looked best. As you can see, I had to get a little creative to put this 6" decorative tile in the middle of a 12" tile. I made the cuts, shaped the opposing edges with an angle grinder, and stained the edges with a wood stain and then sealed them. For the tiny grout lines, I used a grout colorant to make it look like it's all one piece. This whole process might be unorthodox, but I thought it was kind of fun and from arms length it looks pretty convincing.

I chose the granite countertop because I wanted a contrast with the tile, and the granite has copper and brick color chunks in it that blend with the tile color.

In the backsplash, I originally didn't want to use the pewter colored ribbon tiles, but it seemed like the only way to make the 4" diamond decorative tiles look centered vertically. When you look at the oven picture, you’ll see why I wanted to have full tiles start from the base of the granite. Though you probably can’t see it, the ribbon tiles have some brick coloring in the detail. Also, with the oven picture, I thought it was pretty cool how the row of 4” tiles fit perfect between the two levels of granite countertop.

Thanks for all your help.





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