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Unread 10-09-2021, 03:33 PM   #61
HilltopRehab
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That is green board yes, it was an availability thing at the time. Research pulls up discussion that it wasn’t/isn’t forbidden it’s just not as easy to work with. I could prime the walls if that would be worth the help.
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Unread 10-15-2021, 11:30 AM   #62
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I applied membrane over the shower floor first, and the niche. I felt confident that the green board wouldn’t be an issue for adhesion, using Kerabond mortar.

I still have to do the vertical band and the shower arm pipe seal, but the walls are up and the curb is wrapped. I went through a period of panicking about peel risk and whether my mix was wet enough, but read many discussions which sufficiently put me at ease.

Only 2 real defects in my application -
Small air pocket on the back/outside of the curb in one location, maybe root cause is my sheet rock wrap wasn’t even enough. Shouldn’t be a very wet location, I’ll cut it open and fill with mortar or kerdi fix and probably patch it too.
Medium area of bulge above the niche where I should have kept working the mortar. Unsure whether I need to act - peel back the top of the wall, chip out the excess and reapply - or whether a leveling system can save me the hassle.

Next up is to float the rest of the bathroom floor.
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Unread 10-18-2021, 10:40 AM   #63
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Welp, the floor base is down. Mixed, hauled, packed and floated something like 350 lbs of the stuff.

I think my technique got a little better from the shower experience. I still found myself starting too low and having to rake, add, and re-screed which I know doesn’t help the end result, but I was getting the hang of it. I think if I were to do it again or make a recommendation it would be to spend the $100 or whatever on the aluminum screed set, I think it would be worth it. Using lumber as a screed is not ideal. I found myself using my levels which is also not ideal.

My HVAC guy didn’t set the baseboard heater carriers high enough but the covers should conceal what is basically a ramp down from the adjacent floor height to the underside of the heater carrier, I just hope the deck mud holds it together there… might be a little shy of 3/4”

I didn’t think it through regarding the threshold, I should have cut a piece of lumber to stand in for it in the mean time but the deck mud seemed to be holding itself together fine - I may have gone a little more damp on the last batch. Any advice on that is appreciated, I figure I’ll get the threshold custom made along with the countertop and niche shelves, and maybe curb top (still deciding). Then I can set it in place over a strip of CBU and get an oak transition to ramp down to the outside floor, which is old strip flooring just 3/8” thick (I knew I’d have a not-insignificant mismatch in height just like the original build).

Photos are rotated except for one, maybe an admin can help with that..
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Unread 11-09-2021, 11:57 AM   #64
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I will have tile work to share soon...

Question about the curb where it meets the walls - how much of a "tub leg" should there be on the outside of the curb? The Mrs. wants zero, and on one side the tile layout works out to where a full wall tile ends just over the outside of the curb tile (so I don't want to add a sliver and would have to make it at least 2-3 inches in width) but I'm slightly worried about inevitable bits of water sneaking past the frameless glass partitions.

I ran the membrane a couple of inches beyond the curb, and I suppose I could use drywall mud to blend the wall into whatever membrane doesn't get covered in tile.. or is that a bad idea and I should extend the tile and cut away the membrane that's left?
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Unread 11-09-2021, 01:47 PM   #65
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I personally like to see a two or three inch tub leg with waterproofing behind it, Steve, but lots of showers are done with no tub leg at all, 'specially when glass enclosures are used.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-15-2021, 06:44 PM   #66
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Has anyone seen or heard of successfully installing a tileable drain with small format hexagon mosaic, where the drain opening followed the grout lines overhanging the filler pretty substantially?

See photo for what I mean. I could make the pattern flow properly so forgive the placement, it’s just to illustrate.

The examples and anything I’ve seen is square or with tiles cut to form the water flow path in a square shape right around the template.
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Unread 11-15-2021, 06:55 PM   #67
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Answered my own question. The filler piece would become captive, the spacing of the tiles doesn’t leave a big enough opening to get it out.
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Unread 11-16-2021, 06:01 PM   #68
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Ok well I’m still struggling with bailing on the concept of having only grout lines for water to flow through as is the intent of the tileable drain. So… what about the pictured layout? The risk I suppose is that the 4 corner tiles are not very well adhered to the black rubber “lugs” of the drain plate. I think they would at least be supported, but when pulling the drain cover off they might get a bit of a prying load that peels them off. I suppose it’s my risk to take, but wonder if anyone’s seen anything like it.

First photo shows the drain tiles upside down, second one shoes the most risky location under the 4 outer tiles.
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Unread 02-05-2022, 06:42 PM   #69
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2022 update - I bailed on the tile drain, went with a white Schluter drain instead.

After I silicone the plane changes - quite a few of them with this niche layout - I’ll get a final photo up with the curb and all completed, and some close-ups to show the details. The glass is a few weeks out.

The niche I think turned out pretty well, despite my nervousness at how the details would all come together. I installed the Schluter jolly trim around the entire perimeter first, then cut notches in it to set the tiles and quartz shelves in just the right spots.

I left the kerdi membrane on the wall and used joint compound to hide it behind paint among the sheetrock.
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Unread 02-06-2022, 07:37 AM   #70
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Looking good, Steve, that's a pretty serious niche!
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Unread 02-08-2022, 08:30 AM   #71
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Thanks Dan! Yes, it is... building the niche out vertically seems like not much extra effort, so I figured why risk wanting more space once we're using the shower. We have too much plenty of stuff to put on the shelves, and my wife wanted the footrest for shaving, so I built it to be one single large niche!

The quartz was costly though, I would probably just make the shelves using tile if I were to do it again.
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Unread 02-08-2022, 08:47 AM   #72
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I have niche envy.

I'm still trying to decide how I'm going to finish the niche in my guest bath, and was thinking quartz. How thick is the quartz you used, Steve?
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Unread 02-08-2022, 09:44 AM   #73
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That is standard countertop quartz, 3 cm thick. Initially I wanted it to be 2 cm, but this material wasn't common enough where I wouldn't have to pay the supplier to mill it down. I agreed with them - if I'm paying for all 3 cm, it won't look bad, may as well use it.

Glad I did, because I had no choice for my vanity backsplash given the space constraints, and the milled 2 cm thickness doesn't quite seem perfectly even to my eye. It's fine for the backsplash but would have been clear as day in the niche arrangement. I can only hope they have the capability to do a better job if required.
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Unread 02-09-2022, 06:58 PM   #74
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A couple more photos to hopefully show some detail. Grouting the niche was tough too, it’s going to need a little more cleanup before the silicone.

I thought I had the photo orientation thing down… can a mod straighten these for me?
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Unread 02-23-2022, 09:25 PM   #75
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Looks beautiful!
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