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Unread 03-09-2011, 08:50 PM   #1
dc_951
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How much prep need on this concrete slab?

Hello everyone. I am new to this site and after browsing for a few days I decided that I should ask for some help. I am doing my first tile job and wanted to get your opinion on how much prep is needed on my slab. 20x20 porcelain tiles with crack isolation membrane (Redgard or something similar).

This is what it looked like after removing the carpet.
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1. The white tint I believe to be over-spray from them painting the walls. Do I need to remove this or is this not enough paint to worry about? If I have to remove, what are my options/best options? Water does bead where paint is completely covering concrete, but appears to absorb where there is some concrete/spray.

2. Th carpet glue, for the most part, is nothing more than a "stain" after scraping the chunky stuff. Am I good or do I need more work like sand/scarify?

3. The carpet tacks left small "craters". Do I need to patch or are they small enough to fill with thinset when setting? If patching is needed, what is the recommended way of doing it/what product is recommended? Assuming no floor leveling is needed (will be checking this weekend).

4. Since I am using a crack isolation membrane, do I need to do anything to the cracks? The cracks are on the same plane.

Really unsure on how "prepped" concrete needs to be prior to starting

Much appreciated.
Daryl
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Unread 03-09-2011, 09:07 PM   #2
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Get up as much of the paint as you can. A 4 inch razor blade scraper works well. Or, you can rent a floor machine and sand it, I do that often. I would then mop the floor well before putting down the membrane.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 06:05 AM   #3
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How flat is the floor? The standard for tile is no more than 1/4" out of plane in any 10 foot direction. Grind high spots and fill low spots before applying the membrane.

Regard is good for cracks up to 1/8". The one you pictured doesn't appear that large, but check anyway.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 07:56 AM   #4
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guys may I ask what do you use to grind down high spots?? I have a grinder but dont know what to buy for it.


thanks!
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Unread 03-10-2011, 08:05 AM   #5
bbcamp
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A diamond cup wheel turns a right angle grinder into a concrete removal machine.

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Unread 03-10-2011, 08:09 AM   #6
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A cup wheel for the grinder, Harbor-freight has them for $28 - $30, big box will want a lot more but for a small job, cheap works just fine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...y=&q=cup+wheel
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Unread 03-10-2011, 08:11 AM   #7
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be aware slab grinding is a VERY dusty procedure. Open the doors and have a huge box fan blowing the dust outside. A shop vac sucking up the dust will develop a static charge in the hose from the cement dust moving through the tube. Grounding out the hose with an extension cord stops the shop vac operator from getting a huge surprise.
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Unread 03-11-2011, 11:29 AM   #8
dc_951
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Any opinions on filling he craters left by tack nailing?
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Unread 03-11-2011, 07:45 PM   #9
Davy
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You can fill them with thinset.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:15 PM   #10
dc_951
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Recommened thinset for 20x20 poecelian

Could you guys give me some recommendations on what type of thin-set I should use with 20x20 porcelain tiles on a concrete slab using RedGuard (or something similar?

Thanks
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:20 PM   #11
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RedGuard vs Fracture Guard

Does anyone have a recommendation on one of these products over the other? and why?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:22 PM   #12
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Hi Daryl,

It should be a medium-bed modified mortar. There's plenty out there. How about you give us a hint of where you are or what brands are available to you.

Have you checked how flat the floor is? It better be flat with tiles that size.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:28 PM   #13
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How are you wanting to use it?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:35 PM   #14
Brian in San Diego
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Daryl,

We have a "one project, one thread" policy on the forums. Please don't start new threads for every new question you have regarding this project. It only leads to confusion for those trying to help out.

RedGard has waterproofing characteristics that FractureFree doesn't. If you are using the product as an anti-fracture membrane then FractureFree is sufficient and less expensive. No sense in shelling out the extra bucks for a waterproofing membrane if you don't need the waterproofing characteristics.

We can change the title of your thread to something more fitting to the overall project.
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Unread 04-13-2011, 08:09 PM   #15
dc_951
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Sorry about that Brian.



Thinset choices are:

Mapei:

Ultraflex 1
Ultraflex 2
Ker 111

If none of these are worthy I can look elsewhere to see whats available
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