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Unread 05-30-2005, 08:19 PM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 30
Shower wall construction

Greetings, Farmer here.

I've looked around the site regarding shower wall construction and am a bit confused on the whole multiple membrane issue. I'm tiling a three sided shower stall and one of the walls is an exterior wall. Of course the exterior wall is insulated and has kraft paper facing the interior. I plan to put up Wonderboard and use Redgard over that. My question is: do I need to remove the kraft paper from the insulation because it acts as a second membrane?

Secondly: there is a window on the exterior wall. How do I build up the slope on the sill so water will drain off it. I'm using 1" mosaics so it needs to be perfectly flat. Thinset under the CBU?

As always, you guys rock!
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Unread 05-31-2005, 05:51 AM   #2
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Welcome back, Farmer!

No need to remove the kraft paper backing on the insulation, just cut a number of slits in the paper with your razor or utility knife.

You can shim a piece of CBU so it slopes.
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Unread 06-01-2005, 10:19 AM   #3
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Thanks, Bob. Sound logical, will do.

My wall tile arrived yesterday and I was surprised to see that it does not have a mesh backing like the other mosaics I've seen. Instead it has an adhesive backed paper face to which all the tiles are mounted. Questions:

1. Any tips out there for how to mount these?
2. With the paper on the face, how do I clean the thinset out of the groutlines before it hardens?
3. Since they're glass, do I have to use Custom's Flexbond?
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Unread 06-02-2005, 12:11 AM   #4
Brian Barbier
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Location: Davis, CA
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With the normal sill to window distance, your CBU ends against the front of the frame. Then, your waterproof membrane ends where the CBU ends. Then, maybe, you caulk the membrane to the window before you tile, if you notice this potentially bad situation....If you don't, or if that caulk cracks, and the caulk between tile and window above that cracks, then you have a nice vertical crack for water to travel downward into the walls.

If you still can, I recommend removing the sill 2 x 4 by pulling/cutting the nails. Then cut the jack studs that support it at a slight angle, cutting them down just enough that the finish tile will be able to slide under the window frame. (may have to power plane the protruding front corner of the sill after reinstalling it).

If the tile finishes under the frame, and your caulking is now between the bottom of the window frame, and the top of the tile, and there's tile heading upslope behind that caulking joint, then if the caulk cracks, well, water doesn't run uphill (usually).

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Unread 06-03-2005, 07:21 AM   #5
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Hey Brian,

Thanks for the recommendation but the wall is already framed, sheeted, sided and insulated. I think I'm going to go with Bob's method in order to continue making forward progress. I will definately consider your method for my next bathrooom.

Is there anyone out there who can answer my questions from 6/1?
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