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Unread 03-21-2005, 06:59 PM   #1
southmomx2
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Question SLC ?-Raising a Floor

I have been working on a bathroom redo for 2 yrs. DH & I have torn out the old mortar & mesh floor and all the tile off of the walls and have everything down to the studs. (I found this forum after I had started demo so I discovered too late that I didn't have to tear out the floor). So now we are down to plywood and it is approx 4" lower that the adjoining floor. We will need to raise it about 2 1/2 to 3" to allow room for tile board & tile thickness to make the two meet. Would I be better off with a SLC or plywood to raise it up? I have been to the "liberry" and read Flatfloor's info. How "doable" is raising it that much with SLC? As you have probably figured out by my 2yr+ timetable so far, DH and I are easily discouraged and distracted. (I have actually considered moving so I don't have to do this!) Has anyone out there raised theirs this much?
I also read on another thread that this is better done before the drywall goes up so that is the order I am planning on.
Any info is much appreciated.

Michelle
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Unread 03-21-2005, 07:07 PM   #2
Rd Tile
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I would add 3/4" plywood to the joists, then mud the rest, alot cheaper than SLC and will give you the best possible subfloor there is.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 07:18 PM   #3
flatfloor
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Like Rich said SLC poured that deep can be very expensive. You can however save some money by filling in with pea gravel. How many square feet are we talking about? SLCs are fast and don't require a lot of skill.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 07:36 PM   #4
southmomx2
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sq. ft....

It's only 63 sq.ft. so not that big.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 07:54 PM   #5
flatfloor
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Figure 2.5" of pea gravel over wire mesh that's still 25 bags of SLC x $26 =$650 dollars plus cost of gravel, and mesh. Your call.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 07:55 PM   #6
BLUE SEAL
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I would personlaly apply 5/8 plywood then use pea stone and SLC, just like Jim said, just do not forget to prime your floor before you apply any SLC two (2) coats are always recomended on wood. Reason for the primer is that it will seal the wood, so that when you apply the SLC the wood will not soak up the water from the cement and you will be sure that the curing process will be corect. As a manufacture rep. I have seen a lot of customers not follow the manufactures instructions and the end result ends up costing you more.

You could always use Blue Seal after you have applied you wood, no primer necessary just pour SLC over the blue seal after it has dried.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 08:03 PM   #7
Rd Tile
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Heck for that price you can get a redi mix truck to deliver 8 yds. of concrete, redo your driveway and throw a couple of wheel barrows on that floor.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 08:04 PM   #8
flatfloor
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As Sam said 2 coats of primer, the primer also creates a chemical bond with the ply. The mesh gives a mechanical bond.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 08:21 PM   #9
flatfloor
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Right you are Rich just letting them have the info.
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Unread 03-21-2005, 09:05 PM   #10
southmomx2
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Thanks for all the info. Should I be able to do another layer of plywood, then tar paper, mesh & mud? And what do you consider "mud" and are there different kinds & qualities out there?
Michelle
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Unread 03-21-2005, 10:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southmomx2
Thanks for all the info. Should I be able to do another layer of plywood, then tar paper, mesh & mud? And what do you consider "mud" and are there different kinds & qualities out there?
Michelle
Michelle - there is an entire thread in the pro's hangout (439 posts) devoted to mud entitled JB FORUMS MUD COURSE. You can also search the forums with key words "deck mud" and find all the info you want (and more).
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Unread 03-29-2005, 03:56 PM   #12
Robert Wenzl
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any reason why he couldnt just sister another floor joist to the existing to raise the floor?
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