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Unread 07-27-2020, 11:40 AM   #1
Chrism1367
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Shower plans advice

so doing a new shower from scratch h and just wanted to get some insight from the pros. BTW this site has been a great help.

Shower is 32 x 60 over 1 1/8 plywood. Joists are doubled up underneath, 2x10 spanning 11 1/2 feet. Hopefully a solid floor. Plan to do single sloped mud bed with laticrete bonding flange drain, cement board on walls, curb,, and bench. changes of plane siliconed and taped, taped seams also. Cover everything with mapei aqua defense. Will also be a curb, possibly pre-made niche, and homemade corner bench covered out of 2x with cement board over. Subway tile the whole thing, except top of curb and bench and poss niche shelf will be marble or travertine. Thoughts? Advice?

Also few questions.
1. On a corner bench, how would I have cement board meet at the odd angles, such as 45 degrees? Would a pre-made be a better option?

2. Where cement board meets ceiling drywall. Should this be taped and thinset or drywall mud?

3. How to preslope 2x4 curb with cement board over it? Would that be able to be done with thinset?

Hope you all can help, thanks!
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Unread 07-27-2020, 12:46 PM   #2
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Not sure where you intended the silicone in that assembly, but if it's anywhere below the Aqua Defense, it's a waste and potentially a bond preventer where you least want it. Nothing sticks well to silicone, even more silicone.

Mesh tape and mortar at joints and corners.

1. Square edges are fine, alkali resistant mesh and mortar bridge the V.

2. If retrofit, I would hold cut on drywall an 1" or 2" below ceiling and mesh tape the drywall to CBU . If all new, I'd do what's called flat mesh taping at on wall to get crisp edge. If it's somehow that intersection is visible, I'd finish it like drywall and tile over. I'm guessing you're way above what's considered a wet area.

3. 1/8" spacer on outside between uppermost 2X, taper cut with saw, taper cut on jointer, taper cut with handheld planer, etc. Many ways to skin the cat. If I had access to saw, I'd cut those 2x4s down to 2.5 or so, 'cuz I hate huge curbs.

If you're going to use porcelain or ceramic elsewhere, I wouldn't use travertine, which is soft and porous, on curb and bench cap and niche sill. Harder stone like granite if you must, I like quartz engineered stone.
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Unread 07-27-2020, 12:49 PM   #3
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Hi Chris,

Some of the questions depend on how large a tile you're using on the walls and bench.

You don't need to tape the cement board against the ceiling. No water is going to get that high.
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Unread 07-27-2020, 01:00 PM   #4
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OK thanks guys, good to know about silicone, was wondering that and part of the reason I asked. Tile will be most likely 3x6.

So by mortar Bridge you mean just fill the gap created by the odd angles of the cement board then? Would tape then aqua defense go over that?

The ceiling and all walls are all new. Yes it is above wet area, 8ft ceilings.

I may try to cut an angle on the uppermost 2x4 then. And I'm going to try to make 1 single tile fit the height of the curb if I can.

Thanks for all the help
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Unread 07-27-2020, 01:21 PM   #5
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Yes, mesh tape and mortar. Topped by Aqua Defense. Be sure to read and follow the directions...it's not quite like painting. Film thickness is critical and often overlooked.

Should not be a problem using single row on front of curb if planned well. I have been known to get same color larger tile, then cut to height to eliminate a skinny there which looks bad.

Forgot to add, if this is attic above, there's good reason to prevent upwards air flow at the wall ceiling joint. A good idea even if not.
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Unread 07-27-2020, 01:35 PM   #6
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Ok thanks, so mortar, then mesh tape, then aqua defense. Yes there is an attic above
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Unread 07-27-2020, 03:40 PM   #7
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I've been trying to find the "flat mesh taping" way of doing the cement board to drywall ceiling joint, and can't find anything about it. Would you have any resources or point me in the right direction?
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Unread 07-27-2020, 06:15 PM   #8
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That's a term I appropriated from drywall world. You're likely going to have a varying gap at the ceiling because of the way ceilings aren't level and cutting CBU isn't like cutting a piece of plywood.

Butt your mesh tape up against ceiling and fill the gap between top of CBU and ceiling with mortar mixed on the thin side.

I will do this as I tile most of the time. It also helps with sealing that gap from air leakage into attic...a good thing.
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Unread 07-27-2020, 07:32 PM   #9
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Ok got it thanks for your help much appreciated
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Unread 07-28-2020, 05:58 AM   #10
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You really do want to finish the wall to ceiling joints to prevent moist air leakage into the attic insulation. If you aren't taking the tile all the way to the ceiling hang sheetrock on the the wall about 1' down (or just below where the top row of tile will end) and finish the wall to ceiling joints as usual. If you do run the cement board to the ceiling I'd use Strait-Flex drywall tape and hot mud to seal the CB to the ceiling.
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Unread 07-28-2020, 03:41 PM   #11
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I was thinking if I put 1ft of drywall from the ceiling down, could I tape and mud that, then still put tile all the way to the ceiling? Or maybe even 6 or 8 inches of drywall. It won't be in the wet area but wife wants tile to the ceiling
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Unread 07-28-2020, 03:47 PM   #12
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The 'wet' area in a shower is anything below the height of the shower head...so, you can treat that area as dry, so yes, drywall, covered in tile is acceptable. You'd still want to use the alkali resistant tape on any joints that were going to be covered with thinset. You might want to use the cbu screws rather than drywall screws (which would potentially rust) on the drywall there.
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Unread 07-28-2020, 04:34 PM   #13
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Ok thanks for your help, it will be above shower head.
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Unread 09-27-2020, 06:35 AM   #14
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Sheet membrane over curb and other questions

doing a complete bath remodel and currently have durock up in shower walls and going to do a mud pan with bonding flange drain and sheet membrane on top of ahower pan. My question is regarding the curb and where walls meet shower pan, curb is currently built from 2x4 with 1/4 inch durock over top and seams taped and thinset. Im debating whether I use hydroban liquid over the curb then it would overlap onto the sheet membrane on the shower pan, or use sheet membrane and preformed corners for the curb, and also sheet banding for where walls meet the shower pan. I'd like to use hydroban liquid and just overlap into the shower pan from the walls and curb, but I see some on here saying sheet membrane is better. I thought buildup in the corners with the overlapping sheet membrane and preformed corners might be an issue. Seems like liquid membrane with fabric reinforcement would be better, but not sure if its as good as sheet membrane would be.
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Unread 09-27-2020, 07:35 AM   #15
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Welcome, Chris,

A bonding flange drain is for use with a PVC pain liner so if you intend to use a sheet membrane on top of the mud bed you'd have no way yo make the membrane to drain connection water tight. You'd really want to use the drain assembly designed for your sheet membrane.

And if you go with the sheet membrane on the pan want to wrap up, over, and down the curb, and use the pre-formed corners. You would also want to use the membrane bands to seal the membrane on the floor to the walls.

I've read here that some people elect to use a liquid membrane in conjunction with a sheet membrane, as you seem to be considering, but I don't think any of the membrane makers endorse that. Either do the whole thing with sheet membrane or the whole thing with liquid membrane. But there's still the challenge of sealing at the drain.

Your cement board is already up. I am guessing, then, that you already have a pre-sloped mud bed installed, and your PVC liner installed, with the wall studs notched to accept the thickness of the liner folds in the corners.
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