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Unread 10-09-2020, 08:15 AM   #181
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Dan, that "close but not forced" has been USG's recommendation for at least ten years. I recall them having a rep giving a presentation of some sort at a NTCA technical committee meeting where he was asked specifically about that recommendation because it differed from all the other CBU makers' recommendations. Before that time? I dunno.

You'd want a gap at the change of plane application, but I don't know that it needs be a full 1/4-inch in small walls such as a shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-09-2020, 08:22 AM   #182
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IMO, Dan, they changed the recommendation because it made no sense. How do they sell the idea to leave a space when that space will get filled, at least partially, with mortar that doesn't really compress? The recommendation to not force the panels tight together is probably just to help prevent edge damage. I've made that mistake, lots-o-times, when installing drywall.

Yeah, 1/4" seems excessive. 1/8" will certainly be enough.
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Unread 10-09-2020, 08:27 AM   #183
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Thanks for the speedy replies.

ok, I'll leave 1/8" in and between the planes.
EDIT: decided in the last minute to stick with the mfr. recommendation...

Dan, I think what CX meant (and what he reminded me) that's its not that they changed their recommendations it's that it was at odds with NTCA and other Mfr. recommendations...
That is, they always recommended to not leave a gap whereas NTCA and other Mfrs. say to leave a 1/8" gap.

In regards to the moisture barrier, any preference where to stop it?

- The tub is 30" wide
- The CBU will extend to 36"
- I am planning to tile to 33"

Extend the the moisture barrier to 36" where the CBU will meet the drywall?
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Unread 10-09-2020, 08:58 AM   #184
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If the tile ends at 33 but the joint is at 36 you're going to have a hump at that joint that will be difficult to taper with drywall compound. IOW, in order to make drywall joints visually disappear you have to taper both sides of the joint with compound and typically a 10 to 12 inch drywall knife. To accomplish that you'd need to finish the joint first before setting your tile. But then the tiles that ride the taper won't be flat. Probably close, the compound won't be terribly thick, but still.

You could maybe end your tiles at 33, then tape and compound the joint right up to the edge of the tile with no taper on that side but I don't think that's going to finish well against the edge of the tile.

Me? I'd mesh tape and use hot mud to secure the joint, then run the tile out past it. End your WP'g anywhere 33" or beyond. There's just not going to be a lot of water out there.
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Unread 10-09-2020, 09:15 AM   #185
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thank you. I guess that there some extra thickness you could taper to on the tiles side on the count of thinset (~ 1/8" or so).
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Unread 10-09-2020, 10:04 AM   #186
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What do you think about keeping the moisture barrier in tact behind the niche instead of cutting a hole in it? I am thinking a few creases in a 6 mil poly behind the CBU ain't going to make a difference for a bit of insurance. Planning to redgaurd the niche of course as well.

EDIT: ignore. I realized that If I'll do that I won't be able to construction glue the niche to the studs...
I'll poke a hole. It will be redgaurd anyway,
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Unread 10-09-2020, 09:28 PM   #187
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The tab nailed to the furring strips... I used galvanized roofing nails given the PT furring strips
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Unread 10-09-2020, 09:32 PM   #188
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The convoluted drain is installed and tested. If it was done like that by the builder in the first place, it would have saved so much aggravation and time. This watco drain comes with both a test plug and covered overflow so testing is easy to do.

- I first tested for a little without putty and it confirmed that there are no leaks except the drip into the pipe as expected.
- I then added the putty and filled the tub.
- I even filled it above the overflow level LOL. I don't think it will be required in reality and I don't know if it is required by code but since the overflow had this feature I figured might as well. I won't tell the kids that they can twist the overflow trim up to get the tub even fuller...
- I let it stand for 24hrs and no leaks...
- I made sure that when i emptied it there are no leaks as well.
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Unread 10-09-2020, 09:38 PM   #189
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6 mil poly is stapled. As I learned from CX, i hadn't trimmed it in the bottom and instead it helps protect the tub below until the last row is tiled. The niche is in and all of the CBU is up except two small pieces by the ceiling, so more pics tomorrow.
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Unread 10-10-2020, 07:01 AM   #190
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Niches are problematic when using a moisture barrier behind the CBU walls, Dan. No real good way to waterproof that area. What is your plan?
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Unread 10-10-2020, 07:35 AM   #191
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Same thing I did in another bathroom:

1. Tape it with Alkali resistant tape + thinset before tiling

2. Redguard around it.

Here is a picture of it from another bathroom I did with this forum guidance:
https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...&postcount=218

But:
This time around redguard at least 6" wide and all the way to the ceiling like you suggested in regards to what I did above here: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...&postcount=225
At the time I already started tiling so it was too late to implement.
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Unread 10-10-2020, 07:42 AM   #192
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Also,

1. I used these screws to secure the tub flange to the 20ga metal studs: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-8-x...1532/100181507
The truss head is touching the face of the flange and the CBU (since as discussed the CBU is flush with the flange and will be redgaurd'd).

I didn't find galvanized truss head screwes.
You think zinc plated is enough or replace with SS truss head screws?

2. You think it is important to drywall the dry area before tilling so that perhaps when fastening the drywall it wouldn't "tug"/shift the the CBU and tiles? I am planning to put a furring strip or a 1x2 in the transition to tie the two together. There is a non-tiled 3" wide CBU strip.
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Unread 10-10-2020, 11:29 AM   #193
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3. Leave a gap between the CBU and ceiling / attic? There is quite a bit of temp variation between the two. This is what's called a "vented" attic I believe so it is pretty much open to the outside through passive vents.
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Unread 10-10-2020, 01:08 PM   #194
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1. Shouldn't see much moisture if they're behind your moisture barrier. I think you'll be OK.

I don't understand about the RedGard in that area, though.

2. I would prefer to install the drywall, prime and paint a first coat up to a line a quarter-inch or so into the tile area were it mine, Dan. Then tile over that line, pookey the edge and touch-up the paint if necessary.

3. I would finish that joint the same as any other wall/ceiling joint in the house.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-10-2020, 02:17 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
Shouldn't see much moisture if they're behind your moisture barrier.
They are actually in front. There was no way to have them behind when they need to be flush with the CBU and flange. Please see attached pics. This is all given the angle of the wall was not 90 degrees resulting in the shown gap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
I don't understand about the RedGard in that area, though.
It was given the suggestion that you made here and included here as well:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
For best results you do want the CBU to lap over the tub's tiling flange on the drain side. In the alternative, so long as the face of the CBU is flush with or proud of the tiling flange face, you can use a strip of waterproofin
I think given the situation this recommendation is very important. I assume that for a strip of waterproofing I can use redguard as oppose to say a kerdiband

Thank you very much for the help.
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