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Unread 05-28-2008, 05:39 PM   #16
kerdibird
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John, is that white thinset or compound, and are those screw holes covered , at the bottom of the cbu?
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Unread 05-28-2008, 05:40 PM   #17
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I didn't take your message as off-color. I can appreciate a frank answer.

Truth is, I have the tile. I paid for it separeately. It's in the garage. I have somewhat of a mess in my bathroom.

I've paid this guy $1500. I don't owe him the final $500 until the tile is done. If I call it quits now, I still need someone who can come in here, fix what's wrong (I have no idea how much time that is), and put up the tile the way I want it.

Someone PLEASE recommend a good tile person in SE PA area that needs work and works with a brain. please please please.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 05:42 PM   #18
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"John, is that white thinset or compound, and are those screw holes covered , at the bottom of the cbu?"

I can't tell the difference. The guy who was here was the primary contractor. I saw buckets outside his fan. One was definitely joint compound and one was definitely thinset. 5 gal buckets. I didn't bother to check. I've never seen such smooth white thinset before. Of course, now I'm doubting everything.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 05:55 PM   #19
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I know for sure that thinset does come in white but you should be able to tell the difference between drywall mud and thinset.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 05:59 PM   #20
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what did you give him $1500 for ?

materials, or was that part labor up front ?
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Unread 05-28-2008, 05:59 PM   #21
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If I rub mostly dry thinset with a "licked finger", would it leave a white film on my finger? I did, and it did. Otherwise I can't tell. I'm too flustered.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:00 PM   #22
kerdibird
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Don't doubt yourself man and everything will be ok.
It comes down to gut instinct a lot when dealing with trades unfamiliar to your scope of knowledge.
Sometimes, I assume, which can lead to mis-information, so I would rely on your own feelings about the matter of whether the job is reliable.
You could create a proper, functional, shower quite efficiently with confidence using either a surface applied membrane or not, however
there are rules to sucess that have been proven and if you follow them carefully they will lead you to the most logical conclusions.
I have great respect for tile done "the old way", and when through experience you understand why something is done, you learn to appreciate technology which helps you accomplish the same with less effort.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:07 PM   #23
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$1500 was $1000 up front for his retard subs to do the demo and for some materials. I owed him $500 for when the roughin was ready for tile. He duped my poor wife into paying it and believe me I know it's not ready for tile right now.

So the question is $500 get me tile and grout. How long will this shower last? I have $1300 in tile sitting in the garage.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:17 PM   #24
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If it all comes down to money, then spend it now for peace of mind.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:31 PM   #25
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I hear you dudes. I'm BLEEDING money right now. I have a septic install going on at the same exact time. Money is tight.

I think I have to move forward. If I read the advice above about trusting your instincts, I do have some worries. But I also know I'm a worrier. I know this guy's been doing this stuff a long time. He's been in business almost 40 years. I want to believe that he has a way and his way can work. So...Here's my plan. I ask you to pray to the tile gods to bless me with a few years of dry-behind-the-walls.

1.) I'm going to redgard the lower half of the shower, especially those areas where numnut screwed the wonderboard into the liner.

2.) Watch like a hawk the tile install.

3.) Ensure all the grout is properly sealed and maintained.

4.) I might even put an access panel on the bedroom wall that would allow me to see the backerboard of the tile that gets hit by the showerhead. This would allow me to check on a regular basis any water accumulation, thereby providing a possible out in the event I have to go back to the guy for reimbursement.

I'm thinking this install just might work. I really don't think this guy wants me crawling up his ass for the next 5 years and he already knows I'm not just going to go away. But I can't avoid the fact that I'm $500 from a finished shower that will be used about 365 times a year. I just hope regular maintenance helps keep things ok behind the walls.

Cross your fingers for me.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:34 PM   #26
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I just want to thank you guys for your prompt responses and advice. I'm not ignoring any of it. I'm just going to hope that there's a little luck on my side, and small grout lines and good tile work and good sealing will help buy me 10 years of a shower.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:38 PM   #27
ceramictec
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Quote:
If I rub mostly dry thinset with a "licked finger", would it leave a white film on my finger? I did, and it did. Otherwise I can't tell. I'm too flustered.
thinset would feel sandy and not paste like.
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Unread 05-28-2008, 06:46 PM   #28
pitterpat
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John,

Do you have a contract? If so it should give a payment schedule and if he was not due the $500 I would make him pay it back to you. You could go so far as to call the police while he is there and show them the contract and tell them he talked your wife into paying him when it wasn't due. Scare his a$$ to hell!!, tell him you are going to take him to court.

Then, kick him off the job. You are not going to have anything but problems. You can do this shower yourself with the help of the people here. Trust yourself and us to help you.

Don't go forward with this, this guy may have been doing this for 40 years but he is a hack!
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Unread 05-28-2008, 07:05 PM   #29
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I meant spend the money on the re-do man.
There are no tile gods, there is only a shower god, and it is water.
Do you think you'll be the first one to cheat it?
Or are you selling the house and it won't really matter.
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Unread 05-29-2008, 06:44 AM   #30
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Question about Redgard

Everyone mentions 1 light coat of redgard followed by 1-2 heavier coats to achieve water proof.

Some say that I regular, on the lighter side, but not a thin coat, is all that should be put up, because even with modified thinset, tiles won't tick to an overly plasticky membrane.

Thoughts?
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