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Unread 05-06-2020, 09:39 AM   #1
Dohnuts
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Dohnuts Alcove Tub/Shower Apron Project

It's been about 10 years since I have done any tile work but I finally have the time to update the tub/shower alcove. One of the many unemployed.

I ordered a Kohler Mariposa 66" three sided flange tub without an apron as I though it would allow some creativity and more layout options. The tub is smaller than the tub I ripped out by 6 inches in both width and length so I have some flexibility. The framing is 71" in length and I didn't feel like struggling to make it fit so I didn't go with a 72" tub.

I have never installed a tub without an apron. The instructions were also a bit vague as they pertained to all versions of the tub. I am curious as to what the recommended methods are for finishing the front of this tub.

I have seen various styles and I suppose some are limited by space. Some have the finished tile face in plane with the rim. Some look like the face of the tile is underneath the rim. And I have seen some where the tile looks like it is just butted up to the rim. I also thought it might work to tile over the top of the tub deck just a half inch or so. I'm curious as to which style would be the safest route as far as preventing any water intrusion and minimizing any expansion/contraction, cracking, etc.

Upon inspection of the tub I saw a small chip on the front lip at the bottom edge so it is making me want to hide it. It's small, but makes me wonder if that is actually supposed to be a finished edge. The bottom of the edge is also not perfectly level which also makes me want to hide it.

I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as the project continues but first I need to get an idea of how I am going to do the framing so I can get the tub set. I haven't done the plumbing yet either since I am waiting on parts and don't want to set the valve etc. until I have a better idea of my layout.

Here are a few pictures to show what I am referencing and also the new tub.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Hope everyone is healthy and surviving the best we can.
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Unread 05-06-2020, 01:07 PM   #2
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Hi David, Welcome aboard.

Do you have enough space to build a supporting wall under the front edge? That's what you'll need.
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Unread 05-06-2020, 07:43 PM   #3
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I do have space. I guess there is no preferred method and probably just depends on the individual situation. I think I am going to do something similar to this pic. by framing underneath the lip and then backerboard on top of the framing and then butt the tiles up to the edge of the lip just below the radiused edge.
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Unread 05-06-2020, 09:12 PM   #4
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Hi David, welcome to the forum.
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Unread 05-07-2020, 07:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David
I think I am going to do something similar to this pic.
New tub going to be used only for bathing, David, no showering?
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Unread 05-07-2020, 07:10 PM   #6
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The tub will be for showering as well. I plan on just using a shower curtain and no sliding doors.

I still haven't figured out my layout yet of where I want to position the tub. Ideally this drawing is what I would like but I need to move a wall stud for the plumbing to be centered in the tub. If I do it this way I would have the finished apron tiling flush with the lip of the front of the tub.

I like the idea of having a shelf on the wall side as opposed to the apron area. The tub edge will be easier to step over this way but I will definitely have to make sure the waterproofing is done properly for this horizontal surface. I am thinking of spending the extra money and using the Kerdi board and band. Our last bathroom I did with Hardibacker and Redgard throughout so I don't have experience with the Schulter products yet.
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Unread 05-18-2020, 06:02 PM   #7
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I took out a jetted tub and installing a non jetted. I've got power here that I won't be using. What is the protocol for this? Does it need to be removed or can I just bury it? Who knows, maybe the wife will change her mind and want a jetted tub after I finish tiling.

I figure I could just cap the wires and put a plate over it, pull the wires at the panel and label it spare.
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Unread 05-19-2020, 08:48 AM   #8
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I'm guessing this is a dedicated receptacle. I don't know what code says about that, David, but I'd pull the receptacle, cap the wires, put a blank cover on it, and sharpie it with disconnected at panel. Pull the other end completely out of the panel, coil it up and label it as abandoned, with where it originally went.

1st choice would be to pull the entire line if possible.
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Unread 05-19-2020, 10:42 AM   #9
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What's on the other side of the wall, David? Perhaps you could just turn that box around and have an extra outlet on the other side of the wall?
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Unread 05-19-2020, 11:07 PM   #10
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It is a dedicated circuit. I like your option CX. I should have thought of that. On the other side of the wall is just a bedroom closet. Not that I need an outlet in a closet but this way it is accessible, usable and minimal work involved. Thanks for the tip!
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Unread 05-28-2020, 02:25 AM   #11
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Newbie question here. I am trying to get some ideas for some niche finishing pieces. Are trim pieces such as in this picture from the niche thread placed on top of the field tile or are they put in place first and then the field tile cut to fit? Does stone tile stick well to stone? I assume it does.

After seeing all the interesting decorative pieces used, my previous bathroom reno looks so boring and I was thinking of trimming out the window and niche if I could just put stone on top of stone. Of course I have to really get going on the current demo'd bathroom before I even consider that but just trying to get my gameplan for the current layout before I start even laying tile. Still waiting on the darn tub drain to get shipped to my house so I can get the tub out of my garage.
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Unread 06-26-2020, 04:02 AM   #12
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I am trying to get my framing set for my niche and want it to line up with the grout lines.

So that requires me to figure out how tall I want to make my first course that goes along the tub edge. I would like to use as much of a full tile as I can. I am using 16 inch travertine for the bottom two rows.

It has been so long since I have cut any tile that I can't remember how narrow of a rip I can cleanly take off. I was thinking maybe 3/16" or a 1/4". I suppose it also depends on the quality of the blade and saw.

I don't have a saw yet or the travertine for that matter. Otherwise I would just go test it but I want to get this framing done sooner than later. I am starting to regret going for grout lines lining up with the niche!
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Unread 06-26-2020, 07:11 AM   #13
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Though I've never done it, David, I've read here that many choose to cut out and do the final framing and water proofing of the niche after they've set a few courses of tile. Doing so allows you to precisely set the bottom and top of the niche exactly where you want/need it to be.
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Unread 06-27-2020, 03:03 AM   #14
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It should work out the way I have it set with some extra room for a little more mortar if need be.

I also remembered a technique of butting another tile against the one you are cutting when running it through the saw to keep the cut square for cuts close to the edge so it should work out fine with the layout I am planning.

Next is finding some thinner backer board for my window frame because the framing is so whacked out that I wouldn't have any reveal in one corner. I think the tiling is going to be the easy part once I finally get there.
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Unread 07-09-2020, 05:06 AM   #15
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I'm going to need to bullnose/polish about 30 feet or so of travertine and in the past I used PVA pads on my angle grinder. The ones I used were 40 and 80 on tumbled travertine. The honed travertine that I am going to use seems to be in between 80 and 220, maybe 180 would work. On the test piece 220 seemed to be just a bit too glossy. I put some enhancing sealer on the tile and that looked better but not a perfect match.

I haven't been able to find any PVA grit in between 80 and 220. Should I just look for a suitable diamond disc for the polishing? I've never used them and was wondering on the results for a softer stone such as travertine.
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