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Unread 12-19-2009, 12:04 PM   #46
cx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trask
We call that thing in your ceiling a "log"
Well, that's because youins is bowdarkskulls. Y'all even have laws against a fella pumpin' his own gasoline into his own vehicle, eh?

Not sure I understand the back-beveling advice, Trask.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 12:11 PM   #47
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I Dont like the gas pumper thing neither..

If I was gonna cut tile to a LOG I would match the contour at some point where it is exposed Right? Belt sander can work for that.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 12:13 PM   #48
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Kerdi is off

got the kerdi off, now that cbu is a bugger all covered up in mortar like that, gonna be a bear and gonna need a beer. what time is it?

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Viga is spanish for 'can't frame a roof'

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Unread 12-19-2009, 12:14 PM   #49
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oh, and the tile is 8" ceramic 1/4" thick, Spanish. I'll load up a pic later
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Unread 12-19-2009, 12:15 PM   #50
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Yep, yep, matching the contour would be good. And a belt sander on the right kinda tile would be good.

But I'm still head-scratchin' over the back-bevelin'. Lookin' for more education here.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 12:48 PM   #51
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C'mon, someone tell me I don't have to rip down all this CBU! Okay, half done.

Quote:
Originally posted by CX
And you can leave the terlit inna bathtub like that if you wanna, but you ain't gonna pass no plumbing inspection.
Yeah, but i don't have to fool with movin' plummin' around like this. Call it the multipurpose bath
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Unread 12-19-2009, 01:07 PM   #52
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I'm actually kinda' partial to the terlit inna tub scenario. Creates a nice containment system for overflows.


And it really opens up the space in the bathroom. Maybe a nice beer-fridge where the terlit yusta be. Win-win all the way around.


As for the CBU, my .02 would be this question........Which (to you) is easier....

#1.) Sandin' 'til you get a surface you trust

#2.) Throwin' up more CBU

And I'm not sayin' one is better than the other. It's elbow grease vs $$$, IMHO.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 10:11 PM   #53
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Maybe I missed it Heath, but is that a real log home? If so, how new?
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Unread 12-21-2009, 05:52 PM   #54
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It's real vigas (logs) that hold up the ceiling, above the wood there's a 4" layer of pulverized pumice and good ole tar & gravel above that...I know, i got an eye full of it when drilling into it to put in a heater vent.... logs are old growth ponderosa pine harvested from the mountains of new mexico in the mid forties as the house was built in '46. The rest of the place is framed with a good 3" thick layer of stucco on the outside.

So all the CBU is off, i totally destroyed it in doing so, now I'm plumbing and leveling everything by sistering the joists...just hope my math is right for the stick outtedness. those bastards made me go to work today so I won't be getting bathroom work done until tomorrow afternoon.
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Unread 12-22-2009, 05:58 AM   #55
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CX, by "back-beveling" I think Traskling was referring to a method of roughing out the shape with a slight bevel on the back edge (about 5 degrees or so) so the final trimming is on less material. I do this for scribing countertops since it's easier to sneak up on the line if you aren't removing almost 2" of width at the same time.

Of course, Trask may have been talking about fishing...

Viga: n. Southwestern U.S.
A rafter or roofbeam, especially a trimmed and peeled tree trunk whose end projects from an outside adobe wall.

[American Spanish, from Spanish, perhaps from Latin bīga, team of horses, cart (from the long pole between the two horses).]
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:01 AM   #56
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Thinset for Ditra to Warmboard?

Okay, it's the weekend and the warrior in me has arisen. Quick synopsis and then a question. After pulling off all the backerboard (what a PITA after it was covered in thinset), sistering up the studs to get everything plumb and re-backerboarding, I'm now ready for, well, the floor! The cabinet guy is almost done and wants to install soon so I need to get the floor in place and do the surround later.

Here's the setup:

Warmboard with hydronic tubes-->Ditra-->Tile

Here's the question: Which thinset do I use to attach the Ditra to the Warmboard? Warmboard is totally covered by powdercoated aluminum. I'm on the very brink of using Versabond being as it's sold by the Borg. Only concern is there will be NO place for air to enter and water to escape, the thinset will be sandwiched between waterproof aluminum and Ditra.

Someone stop me soon, otherwise I'll be a guinea pig for this setup. Jeez, after having to pull down all that backerboard you'd think I wouldn't be so anxious to jump in on another method that I know squat about
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:07 AM   #57
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Don't nobody know squat about installing Ditra over that aluminum powder coated board, Heath. The Versabond should cure OK under there, and hopefully it will adhere adequately to the aluminum stuff. I'd really wanna do a test of that sandwich before committing to the whole floor, though.

There is no assurance at all about the installation functioning properly, either. You do understand that, yes?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:22 AM   #58
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CX, thanks for your response - and Yes, I'm aware that this setup has no guarantee as of 30 seconds ago when I read your post telling me! so thanks, although that warm fuzzy feeling I had about it is disappearing. The Warmboard folks say to use a latex portland mortar for Ditra...will Versabond pass this test? Here's the page from their installation manual to get your thoughts on it. Thanks again folks, gonna get crackin' here soon!
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:28 AM   #59
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Versabond meets A118.4 as required by Warmboard. It does not meet the rapid-setting requirement specified by Schluter for that installation.

I'd use it anyway. Same warranty offered by Herr Schluter on this installation method.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:52 AM   #60
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Thanks again CX, that warm fuzzy feeling is coming back. Versabond is slaking as I type. Pictures soon to follow.

Would it help to have the floor heat on while the mortar is curing? Maybe keep it around 80 degrees or so?
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