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Unread 08-13-2009, 01:47 PM   #1
slantnose
Cecil
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida
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Travertine Shower Redo

Hi Guys,

I got some great help from you back in 2005 and 2006. . Now I am ready to finsh the downstairs shower stall 3' x 5' x 7' with the same travertine I used on the floors. It is a concrete slab with the shower recessed a few inches into the floor. I have completed the pre slope using the 5 to 1 dry pack formula, and it came out perfect. I built the curb using concrete bricks. I used a oatey clamping drain and pan liner. HD did not have the preformed curb corners, so I am still tying to find some. I plan to use tumbeled travertine mosaic sheets for the floors, and install a decorative band around the shower stall at eye level. I plan to use Mapei's Ultraflex LFT for the walls which are done with Hardibacker with tarpaper behind it as a moisture barrier.

OK, here are my questions!

1. ]Do I install the wall tile before I do the second layer of drypack over the pan liner, or do the second layer of drypack?[/b] I didn't plan to finish the prep on the curb till the wall tile was complete.

2. What is the best way to start the first row and keep it level and plumb (the hardibacker is about 1" above the pan liner)? How high up should I caulk the horizontal level line? I was thinking of starting at the bottom with a cut, so I would end up with a factory edge where I start my decorative band (band height to start at @ 5' from the floor).

3. When doing my second layer of drypack over the liner I plan to set the drain at about 1 1/2" and then caulk the perimeter walls 1 1/2" above that? The drain is not centered and is closer to the shower head side. I will have plenty of slope.

4. When packing the drypack close to the drain, I plan to get as close as I can, and then raise the drain enough to finish the drypack smoothly. Then I will adjust it down again leaving enough space for the tumbled mosaic sheet and mortar. Does that sound OK so far?

5. I checked the inside corners of the shower walls and the are within 1/4" plumb in 7' with my 6' level. Is this within tolerance for this job?

.

Any tips for getting my wall travertine started correctly would be greatly appreciated. I want to keep it as flat and straight as possible. I can't get the mortar for the walls till Monday or Tuesday, so I was thinking of trying to do the second layer of mudpack on the floor over the liner now. I don't know if I am getting out of job sequence, your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Cecil

Last edited by slantnose; 08-14-2009 at 09:10 AM. Reason: corrections
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Unread 08-13-2009, 01:58 PM   #2
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Welcome back, Cecil.

I'm not normally opposed to long posts, but you're just not likely to get much response to that unless you separate it into reasonable paragraphs and present it in more bite-sized pieces.

Just too difficult for some of us to read as posted, I'm afraid.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-14-2009, 09:16 AM   #3
slantnose
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Thumbs down Attention CX

CX

Thanks for your imput. I edited and shortened my thread/post per your suggestion, but I still have not gotten any replies. Is there a way to move the thread back to the top?

Thanks,
Cecil
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Unread 08-14-2009, 10:23 AM   #4
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You just did, Cecil.

Editing your original post won't do it, but making any new post will, and has.

I haven't time just now, but I'll look in again later, today.
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Unread 08-14-2009, 11:09 AM   #5
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1. No rules. I would generally not tile the bottom row until the floor was completed. Others do it differently.

2. I like to use a ledger board, usually a rip of plywood, either screwed to the wall or set upon a stack of tile or similar, with shims to make it perfectly level.

3. You're floor mud must be a minimum of 1 1/2" thick per industry standards. Whatever it takes to get your drain top above that far enough to be just below the level of your tile floor is what you wanna do.

I don't understand the part about the caulking at all.

4. You want to use something to keep the mud outa the weep holes in the drain. Some small gravel, some tile spacers, some something else. Then you wanna pack your mud against the drain. It'll still adjust.

Lotta good information on a lot of that in the Shower Construction section of our whirl-famous Liberry.

5. Depends upon the size of your wall tiles and your ability to "finesse" the installataion. Should be able to compensate for that much out of plumb unless you're using real small tiles.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-14-2009, 08:56 PM   #6
slantnose
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Travertine Shower Redo

CX,

Thanks for you help. I will be using 18" x18" x 1/2" travertine on the walls. I guess I will start the wall tile at the second course up using the ledger board method you mentioned. I will be safely above the shower pan sides, any concerns with the screw holes on Hardibacker?

Sorry about the mistaken wording on question #3 it was supposed to say dry pack, instead of caulk.

The "Liberry" has been a great guide, and your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Cecil
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Unread 11-04-2009, 11:50 AM   #7
slantnose
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Travertine Shower Curb

Hi Guys,

I am close to finishing my 18" x 18" Travertine shower project. The Liberry and CX have both been very helpful. Thanks! Yesterday I formed the metal lath over the curb and put one coat of mortar over it. I checked it this morning and it looks good to me. No lath showing thru, and the top and sides are pretty straight and square. It is about 1/8" low on one end. What is the best way to install the Travertine on the curb and keep it level and straight all the way across and side to side? Inside depth to final dry pack floor is 4 1/4" and it is 3 1/4 " on the outside of the shower. I do have a laser available to use. I don't know of anyway to secure a string line to the finsihed walls. I am undecided at this point (due to cost) on doing a framless glass enclosure, or just buying one from a big box store with bi pass frameless doors. Since this is the guest shower, I don't have to put in the enclosure now. I was considering doing a one piece 6" marble cap on the curb. Is this still OK if I plan to do the more expensive frame less glass enclosure? It would just be one glass panel and a swing door, with both stopping about 6 to 8" from the ceiling. I know th door hinges will go to the side wall, but the fixed panel will need to be secured to both the curb and side wall, which may require drilling holes thru the marble curb cap. Any advise, technics, or tricks that you may have would be welcomed.

Cecil AKA:
Slantnose
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Unread 11-04-2009, 12:29 PM   #8
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Install the inside and outside vertical tiles first, maintaining a level line across the width of the opening, and a slope from the outside face into the shower. Make these tiles slightly higher than the curb, so you can use them as screeds for filling the top with more fat mud (brick mortar).
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Unread 11-04-2009, 09:48 PM   #9
slantnose
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Bob,

Thanks for your help. I am going to try to finish up the side walls of the curb in the morning, and then go and locate a marble cap for the curb. I am estimating a finished curb width of about four inches. I have located 6" wide pre fabricated marble caps for the curb. That will give me a 1'' overhang on each side which almost seem too much? What do you think?

Cecil
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Unread 11-04-2009, 11:01 PM   #10
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Must......

have.........

piiicchhheerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrs!!!!
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Unread 11-05-2009, 06:22 AM   #11
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I think 1" is too much. You just want a shadow line, something like 1/4" or less.
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Unread 11-05-2009, 10:35 AM   #12
slantnose
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Cool

Bob,

Thanks again! I thought the same thing, but I thought it good to get a second opinion from a pro. I am getting a late start today, so I will just finish the curb and not have time to locate the cap today. I have a cheap digital camera without a flash, but I will try to take some photos. I tried to post some photos for a previous post but I couldn't get them to transfer, and I was too short on time to keep trying and never got back to it.

Cecil
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Unread 11-05-2009, 11:22 AM   #13
slantnose
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Travertine Shower Redo

I am going to try to post a photo of the shower curb again. So far I have not been able to do so.

Cecil
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Unread 11-05-2009, 11:29 AM   #14
slantnose
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Hey Guys,

I finally figured out how to post a photo. I think since I am using a dial up connection I didn't allow it to finish properly. I do have lots of photos of the rehab which include grinding high spots in floors, leveling floors, underalyment installation, travertine floor instalation, travertine shelf and soap dish fabrication, photos of etched travertine caused by wet boxes, etc. if anyone is interested?

Cecil
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Unread 11-07-2009, 06:37 PM   #15
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travertine shower

Fixing a glass panel
I have drilled holes into the channel to secure against the wall
On floor I used silicone only to fasten the channel onto the curb and had no problem with movement.
If you really want to secure the channel use silicone on the bottom and at the door side of the glasspanel sandwich a 2 inch long x 1/2" high chrome L angle and secure it with expoxy on the curb
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