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Unread 10-24-2009, 01:31 PM   #16
cx
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It might. Be careful.

You can make the strip bigger if it makes your work easier. Perhaps cut the first piece just to the wall that we see jutting into the room, or perhaps to the center of the board just past that.

Or whatever seems to work for you. You're the onliest one there who can judge the situation that closely, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-24-2009, 01:42 PM   #17
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Just so I'm clear on which wall you're referring to, I attached another photo from the other direction. You talking about the corner on the right side of the shower?

I tried to rename this tread to "Riley's First Tile Job" to no avail.

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Unread 10-24-2009, 01:46 PM   #18
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I forgot to ask in the previous post, when I install the hardi, should the hardi joint be parallel to the plywood joint (but not be in same spot) or perpendicular?
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Unread 10-25-2009, 09:57 PM   #19
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CX, you still out there? I was hoping for some confirmation on my last two posts.

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Unread 10-26-2009, 05:16 AM   #20
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Riley, the backerboard can go in any orientation that fits and makes sense. However, you do not want to align the seams with the plywood, or allow 4 corners of backerboard to come together at the same spot.

I'm confused about your earlier question, but it's early, yet.
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Unread 10-26-2009, 08:45 AM   #21
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What Bob said.

Including the confusion. Don't unnerstan the question.
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Unread 10-26-2009, 07:29 PM   #22
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you referenced a wall jutting into the room in a post above (talking about how much one piece of ply should cover the floor). I wasn't clear what wall you were talking about so I posted another picture from the other side of the room to clarify what wall you were talking about. Not a big deal, I'm pretty sure I get the point.

How much room between plywood and walls should I leave?

thanks,
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Unread 10-27-2009, 05:08 AM   #23
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1/4"
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Unread 10-30-2009, 09:52 PM   #24
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Question

OK, a got my 1/2" CCX ply today and one side is smoother than the other. Which side goes up? My guess is rough goes up for better adhesion with the thin set between it and the hardi, but please let me know.

Also, with screw spacing 6 inches on edges and 8 inches in the field, won't I hit a bunch of the screws when I screw down the hardi?

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Unread 10-30-2009, 11:17 PM   #25
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Riley,

Whose shower stall product is that??

1 piece or 3 piece???

Thx~Randy
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Unread 10-31-2009, 08:26 AM   #26
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Randy, it's three pieces. It's the cast granite product from http://cmpltd.com/.

I still need answers to my post about what plywood side goes up. Also, I forgot to mention that the CCX I have is plugged. Not sure what that means. Anyways any advice would be appreciated since can't go forward without some direction.

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Unread 10-31-2009, 08:59 AM   #27
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Riley, the side with the stamped words that say exposure1 and the other manufacturer info goes down and leave a 1/4" gap around the perimeter (walls) and a 1/8" gap from sheet to sheet
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Unread 10-31-2009, 10:21 AM   #28
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Thanks, tiletim. Let's see if I can get this done without too much problem.
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Unread 11-01-2009, 10:50 PM   #29
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So here's the result of my weekend wrestling with the ply and hardi. Not perfect, but I don't do this everyday and I feel comfortable that it will provide the appropriate foundation for my tile. My screw spacing got a little out of whack, mostly because of the demensions of the room and my lack of planning, but nearly all are spaced at least 8" but some are 10".

I couldn't get a few of the hardi screws flush with the board. They are about 1/16th (about the thickness of the screw head) above the board. I assume this is fine since I'll lay down a 1/4" of thin set when I install my tile, but let me know what you think. In hindsight, I should have used nails.

I mixed my thinset a little wet (on accident). I could have added more powder, but it was holding the 1/4" ridges of the trowel so I just went with it. I figured a little wet was better than a little dry. I'll be sure to use stiffer thinset with the tiles. Your thoughts?

I've always appreciated tradesmen and women but after my experience this weekend, you professionals are worth every penny you charge. Please let me know your thoughts on my handi work.

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Unread 11-02-2009, 06:05 AM   #30
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Riley, take some time to try to re-set those screws that are not flush. Your thinset will compress down to 1/8" on average, but may actually be thinner due to tile thickness variations and warpage. You don't want your tile to stop on top of a screw head.

The thinset under the backerboard is filler, so making it a bit runnier is OK. I'll take your vow to do better seriously if you will.

EDIT: I saw in another thread that you were using a cordless drill. For anything that requires extra power, I go corded. Cordless drills loose their oomph as the batteries loose their charge. A corded drill doesn't. It also helps to put your weight against the drill while you are driving the screw. Get a running start and let the weight and momentum carry the day.

Last edited by bbcamp; 11-02-2009 at 06:27 AM.
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