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Unread 09-27-2020, 10:02 AM   #1
ASHu01
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so many questions on shower and floor

I have an existing slab with a crack. I don't want a curb on the floor. I want the bathroom floor to be cement and the shower floor to be tile but I'm overwhelmed figuring out how to go about this.
Do things all need to be adhered together or uncoupling layers between?
What is the best way to go about this?
I've attached my drawing as it's easier to understand than a photo.
I think I need step by step directions.
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Unread 09-27-2020, 10:13 AM   #2
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Welcome, Dee.

A very useful drawing, but a photo or two might help here to give us a bit of perspective on what you're working with.

The problem I see is with the waterproofing of the shower if there is to be no curb. No problem at all waterproofing the shower floor with a sheet-type direct bonded waterproofing membrane, nor even using a foam shower tray, but stopping the waterproofing somewhere to allow you to have the concrete outside remain the wear surface for the bathroom floor might get a bit complicated.

The edge of the foam tray will need to be protected somehow and will result in a small step (or trip hazard, as the case may be) up into the shower. I suppose you could use some sort of ceramic or stone trim there if you really want to keep that profile, and not pay any attention to waterproofing outside the shower at all.

And if the crack in the SOG is outside the shower as depicted, you'd need to do nothing at all with it except to pretend you don't see it every time you use the shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-27-2020, 12:48 PM   #3
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can you bring the bathroom floor up 2.5" to match the thickness of the wood floor along with the walk in shower?

That way you can waterproof the entire bathroom floor and connect it into the shower pan for a seamless transition? Then fill the space outside of the shower with a 1" concrete pour?
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Unread 09-27-2020, 01:13 PM   #4
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This is what I'm thinking-would it work? Although I would rather it was cement, not the concrete coating.

fill hole with concrete, level with existing slab. using no bonding agent

pour new cement floor over old and set shower pan at same time. Do I need uncoupler?

use kerdi tape where edge of kerdi shower pan butts up to new cement

coat new cement floor with redgard

use a decorative concrete coating or tile on entire floor and shower floor
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Unread 09-27-2020, 01:37 PM   #5
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Are you planning to put Redgard across the Kerdi pan as depicted in your picture?
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Unread 09-27-2020, 01:39 PM   #6
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I don't think I need to but it couldn't hurt, right?
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Unread 09-27-2020, 02:05 PM   #7
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Others here will be able to answer much better but in this case I think there are better solutions instead of mixing the systems, for example I think the redgard over the kerdi is frowned upon as it doesn't necessarily for a good bond.

I think many here would say to use a kerdi membrane or decoupling on top of the new slab pour connected into the shower pan or to use a morter bed for both the floor and shower pan preslope and then redgard over that all in one layer prior to tile install

I'm not sure the best way to tie in a cement floor into a tile edge with waterproofing underneath so I'll leave that one to the experts here to answer
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Unread 09-27-2020, 03:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee
Although I would rather it was cement, not the concrete coating.
Getting a bit confusing there, Dee. Cement, in the context of your SOG is one component of the concrete. That's making me wonder what you mean by "New Cement" in your drawing if it's not concrete.

Pouring concrete in thin sections like that, even when properly bonded to the original concrete, is a bit of an iffy proposition and generally not recommended in thicknesses less than two inches. I have had floors topped with a sand-mix concrete in slightly thinner sections and stained as a finished floor and that particular floor is still in good shape after about six years. Can be done, but not for the faint of heart.

Using deck mud - a mixture of sand and cement with very little water - properly placed in that room would allow you to raise the bathroom floor while also creating the sloped shower floor you need. But it would also require that you tile the bathroom floor.

How large is this room all told?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-28-2020, 11:02 AM   #9
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Yes, very confusing. That's why I need help from people that know way more than I do about these things.

I did mean concrete, not cement.

The room is 9 x 6, 3 x 6 of that is shower.

I think I need to give up on my concrete floor idea and tile the entire thing.

So, if I do the deck mud to bring the floor level up should I put a Kerdi liner on top of it all? Or an uncoupling membrane between the old and new concrete?

Also, do I put tar paper or anything between existing wood floor and new concrete?
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Unread 09-28-2020, 11:56 AM   #10
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Foregoing the concrete bathroom floor and going with the deck mud would be my recommendation if we understand that the object is for a zero-entry shower. It would also make a better shower floor and save a good bit of dinero as opposed to the foam shower tray.

What is your plan for enclosing the shower. Need to know that before I go on with any recommendations.

At the junction of the new mortar floor and the existing wood floor I'd recommend a strip of SilSeal or similar. Leave it high while placing the deck mud and cut it below the surface after the new mud is shaped. Be careful not to get any of the Portland cement products on any of the raw wood that might be exposed or you will get stains you cannot remove.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-28-2020, 02:59 PM   #11
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Smile

I'm planning on just using a shower curtain, hoping that will be good enough.
You all have been a big help-thank you! Anymore advice you may have, I will gladly take.
I'll have to post a picture when I get this all finished
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Unread 09-28-2020, 05:10 PM   #12
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That being the case, you'll have a good bit of water on the floor outside the shower and I'd recommend you waterproof the whole bath floor. If you can't buy small quantities of Ditra, I'd just apply Kerdi to that entire floor. See my warranty information below.

Very best part of the deck mud in your application is that once you know the height of the perimeter of your shower, you could slope the entire bath floor to have tile match the wood floor height at the room entry and match the shower entry height at the shower. Tile it all and never look back.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-28-2020, 06:42 PM   #13
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I'm learning! I ordered the kerdi today, enough to do the entire floor. I may decide later to add a door, but really want to keep things as open as possible
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Unread 09-28-2020, 09:35 PM   #14
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You didn't order enough to do the entire shower, Dee?
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Unread 09-29-2020, 08:56 AM   #15
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Dee, while I support the construction of a curbless shower, I did my own, I caution you on the shower curtain idea. 1st, I might be a challenge to find a 6' rod and curtain. 2nd, a curtain will do a poor job of containing water at the shower head end and definitely at the bottom. You will get water out of the shower at both places.

Nevertheless, if you want to give it a shot, go for it. But, if you find you need to add a glass panel and/or door just under stand that you need to have sufficient support in the wall to support the glass - especially if you install a door. So you need to find where the existing studs are, determine if they are in the locations you need them, and - if not, add them.
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