Multiple questions about backsplash

[pitterpat]

I started tiling, of course life happens but all is good. But more questions.

Should I cut out around the pot filler pipe (red lines). Should I cut that out and reinstall to have a smaller access in case of a leak? The black line is where the initial opening was created. The circle is traced around the trim of the pot filler.

[ss3964spd]

Not entirely sure I understand the question, Pat, but I'd leave only a hole in the drywall large enough for the pot filler stub.

[pitterpat]

Not entirely sure I understand the question, Pat, but I'd leave only a hole in the drywall large enough for the pot filler stub.

I was thinking I should cut that red area out and then screw it back in just in case I need an access area later down the line.
No prob, I'll just leave it like it is.
Thanks

[Tool Guy - Kg]

I'd also leave just a large enough hole for the pipe to fit. Because that joint isn't under pressure except while filling, I think it's one of the least likely pipes in the house to leak.

[pitterpat]

Thanks!

Next question:
Thinking of using epoxy grout for the lower, blue section which is directly behind the gas cooktop. What is the easiest (if epoxy could be easy) epoxy grout to use. I've never used epoxy before. The non-epoxy grout I'm using is TEC.
Above the 3 rows of blue is going to be a 1.5" x 9" pieces and then something like 2" x 12" rows...I think 2 or 3 rows. (Stuck in Florida) for an extra day).

Edit: Or maybe seal the joints might be easier...but I want more permanence.

Thanks.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

For me, it’s Laticrete SpectraLock. And, like other brands, they have an impressive line-up of 100% silicone sealants that are color-matched to their grout colors.

[ss3964spd]

I suggest using the same grout for all of it, Pat. I think the odds of getting two different grouts to match in color and texture are slim at best.

If you intend to use an epoxy grout I'm with Bubba; Spectralock Pro Premium. I used a TEC grout, their Power Grout, on my kitchen back splash. While I didn't much like installing it, it has held up fine. I sealed it twice.

[pitterpat]

Now I'm on the hard part. The backsplash wall with the tiles angled 90 deg.

I am getting ready to tile the area under a marble window sill. There is a gap of about 3/4" between the bottom of the window sill and the top of the drywall. I think part of that gap needs to filled in. What I'm thinking of doing is taking 1/2" drywall to fill the gap. I would put the drywall in the gap flat so that it fills it 1/2" of the 3/4" gap. Then I would cover that with a thin layer of drywall mud.
See any problems with that?

Yes, the red cabinet doors will go away in time. I'm trying to concentrate on getting the hard part done first. I'm about 65% done with my kitchen remodel.

[ss3964spd]

I guess you could fill that gap, Pat, so long as there's something solid in there for the back of the drywall to rest against. You wouldn't be able to screw a sliver of drywall in, best you could do is glue it in - if there's something to glue it to. As well, slicing off a 1/2" to 3/4" piece of drywall while keeping it in one piece along its length might be a challenge. Then there's consideration of taping and mudding the joint.

Given that you should leave a gap between the top of the tile and the bottom of the sill, how much of the triangular pieces of tile will be on the existing drywall and spanning the gap if you didn't fill the gap?

[pitterpat]

how much of the triangular pieces of tile will be on the existing drywall and spanning the gap if you didn't fill the gap?

If I'm understanding what you're asking for the big pieces about 5", for the small triangles about 2 inches.

Too cold now but in the morning I'll go out to the garage and get a piece of drywall. If I wanted to cut a 1/2" piece of 1/2" drywall I could screw it in. I can see the wood studs through the 3/4" slot...
Do I have to tape it? If I don't tape it is it going to telegraph through?

[ss3964spd]

I don't think you're going to have much luck screwing that thin piece of DW to the studs, Pat, but you're welcome to try.

Ordinarily one would want to tape and mud that joint. But given that you already have some tiles set to the left, if you tape and mud that joint now you might have a challenge controlling lippage because of the added thickness of the tape and mud, and no ability to feather it to the left.

[pitterpat]

Here is another pic of the gap, there is some kind of plaster of paris or just plain old 60 year old drywall mud in there. The mystery mud is holding the marble ledge up. I'm going to put some 1/2" drywall on it's "side" (not flat facing out like you would expect) and mud it.

Also, those were not studs I was seeing...I was wrong, there is a piece of wood waaaay in the back. Hard to explain. And I only have tile over about 1-2" of the gap.....not very much at all.

[pitterpat]

I filled it in with drywall the traditional way, it was easier. I cut the pieces about 1/2" in height, buttered the edges stuck the pieces in and made sure the didn't tilt out at the seam or the top. I'm not concerned about the gap at the top.