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Unread 09-10-2022, 07:30 AM   #16
ss3964spd
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That photo John posted shows what I was trying to convey, Chris, he left just enough space for the door casing.

If the wet wall (the one with the plumbing) is 34" then you'll likely want to make the opposite wall about the same for symmetry, leaving you with 3" for the casing. When you frame out that new wall in front of the pocket door don't forget the 1/2" you'll need for drywall or tile backer on the end. IOW, you'd want the width of the framing to be 33 1/2". Adding the backer to the end puts you at 34". If you wrap the tile, as John did in his pic above, the tile and mortar will add about another 1/2", leaving just enough space for a standard 2 1/4" casing.

I would definitely build the new pocket door assembly first, and install the door jambs, making certain everything is plumb.

Don't know how wide that old pocket door was. If it was 30" another option might be to install a 28" or 24" door instead, buying yourself a little extra space. Yet another option could be to ditch the pocket door entirely and install a hinged door. Doing so solves a few of the challenges.
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Unread 09-10-2022, 10:52 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by YucaipaCA
How did you get the corner on the walls like that just with thin set then embed into the thin set and wipe down with sponge? Great example. Thanks John.
Chris, I don't understand your question above.

Here is an old photo I dug up that is a bit more informative.
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Unread 09-10-2022, 09:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Snets
Chris, I don't understand your question above.

Here is an old photo I dug up that is a bit more informative.
Hey John and Dan, hope your having a good weekend. I was talking about that silver bead of tile corner. Pretty cool looking. I now mentally understanding what you and Dan are referring to with the pocket door and the tile and the casing and trim. So I am deff going to plan ahead accordingly.

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Yet another option could be to ditch the pocket door entirely and install a hinged door. Doing so solves a few of the challenges.
Yes you read my mind on this one, but the wife did not like the idea because of the wasted space is what she said. My wife is the boss. There is so much going through my head though I forgot about looking into the new pocket door. Thanks for reminding me. Just did the demo on the soft ceiling tonight. Thanks again for all the help guys.
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Unread 09-11-2022, 07:30 AM   #19
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Chris, the metal corner you see is probably Rondec or something similar. These profile pieces have become a common part of a tilesetter's arsenal in recent years with the diminishing availability of matching trim tiles.

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...r-Walls/c/P-FW
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Unread 09-11-2022, 10:31 PM   #20
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Chris, I understand your question now. As Peter pointed out, the tile edging in my photo is in fact Schluter Rondec. Installation of tile edge profiles is a little more involved than embedding in the thin set mortar and wiping down, but they are not rocket science either; very do-able by DIYers.

Here is one video

Here is another

Different profiles have different methods of installation but standard edge profiles such as Rondec, Quadec and Jolly are pretty straight forward and have only one leg which makes installation fairly simple. Some of the inside corner movement joint profiles may be a little more complicated.

You can pick up edge profiles in the non-Schluter brand at HD but you likely will not find corner pieces and I cannot speak of the quality or longevity of their finishes.
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Unread 09-12-2022, 12:43 PM   #21
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You can pick up edge profiles in the non-Schluter brand at HD but you likely will not find corner pieces and I cannot speak of the quality or longevity of their finishes.
At least in my local HD, they carry some of the (many different) Schluter trims, and will order any of them for you. The profile needed depends on the thickness of the tile, and your desired finish or material which comes in three primary materials: SS, anodized aluminum, PVC, each with various finishes. THe SS ones are the most expensive. OFten, if you were planning a special tile like a bullnose, a profile ends up less expensive.
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Unread 11-02-2022, 12:35 PM   #22
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Age old tile question? modified or unmodified?

I hope I didn't screw up bad on this one. I used Latcrete Mutimax Lite on everything you see in the photos. I don't care about the Schluter warranty because I used a different shower flange anyway (already voided). I understand that schluter says use an unmodified thinset. Do you guys think I'm going to be ok using the mutimax lite. I have already passed the waterproofing inspection with the county. The pan held water for 24 hours no leaks. All I need to do now is tile, texture and paint the ceiling, and put up the glass for final to pass. I'm crossing my fingers on this one. Let me know what your opinion is. What do you think?
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Unread 11-03-2022, 06:58 AM   #23
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The Multimax Lite should be fine, Chris, seemingly confirmed by the leak test.

Can't tell from the photo, but from here it looks like the area around the drain flange may have some circular recesses. If so, you might consider filling those with mortar and letting it cure, as doing so will make tiling that much easier.
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Unread 11-03-2022, 10:42 AM   #24
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Ok great thanks for the thinset advice I also confirmed watching a couple videos on the net. It seem like the non modified is actually worse and fails more than the modified. So I feel much more comfortable now. Thanks Dan

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Can't tell from the photo, but from here it looks like the area around the drain flange may have some circular recesses. If so, you might consider filling those with mortar and letting it cure, as doing so will make tiling that much easier.
ok sounds good there is one small area were it seem like water is slightly settling in the pan as well. Do you think it would be ok to do a small pre slope there and let that cure as well. While draining the pan I may be being a bit picky about this, the water drains fine and taking a long level to it the slope is great but a tiny level and you get one or two slight flat spots that I wanted to slope away from the curb edge maybe 1\8 of an inch then taper it down. When I drained the water it was less than a 16 of an inch of water that stayed there so. I may just be over thinking this. Thanks.
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Unread 11-04-2022, 06:41 AM   #25
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At the pan level, filling those with mortar probably isn't going to help much. If enough moisture/water that gets through the tile and grout it will soak into the mortar and still settle in those low spots. But filling those low spots first will prevent bird baths at tile level. So yeah, I'd fill them first.
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Unread 01-25-2023, 09:16 AM   #26
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All finished up. Thanks for all the advice !!!

The shower and bathroom remodel really turned out great. Thanks everyone for all your advice. I learned so much from this install. Thank you!!!
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Unread 01-25-2023, 09:23 AM   #27
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Well done, Chris, you and Mrs. Chris have got to be pleased with how it turned out!
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Unread 01-25-2023, 09:42 AM   #28
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Yes very happy for our first DIY shower install. I have 4 more to build so this learning experience will save us quite a bit of cash in labor down the road. Hopefully this shower helps us sell the house. Thanks again.
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Unread 01-25-2023, 02:35 PM   #29
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I'm just a newbie DIYer on here. Your shower looks really good!
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Unread 01-25-2023, 03:06 PM   #30
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And even more important, Vena, is that Chris' shower is properly constructed and waterproofed.
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