Any Advice??

[YucaipaCA]

Hello we are going to DIY a walk in shower. I have the shower down to studs mostly. I still need to rip out the old subfloor, relocate the P trap and vent pipe, Convert to 2 inch abs, replumb old copper to pex. So there is still some work to do. After I get the plumbing and drain pipe properly placed, my plan is to level off all studs and floor joists, add new plywood sub floor, plastic sheet walls and ceiling, then put up the gold bond drywall. I plan on using schluter kerdi board or membrane, with a schluter foam shower pan, and a schluter curb system. My drain flange will be the newer style flow fx drain flange that actually fits the schluter foam pad.

On a side note I think the vent pipe was actually plumbed in on the wrong side of that P trap so the shower was a bit smelly. We purchased the home 3 months ago. So I am going to run that vent pipe behind the p trap to block septic smells.

I have done some pretty extensive DIY projects, but this will be my first walk in shower. I am not really worried about the tiling aspect of this job just the water proofing. I have two more walk in showers to install after this one. Do you think my plan so far is sound. Is there anything that I missed that you would do differently? I am concerned about transitions were regular drywall meets the gold bond and schluter membrane. My plan there is to just run the kerdi band with the kerdi thinset up onto the other drywall then patch/mud and texture were needed later. Hopefully I have everything mentally in order to get the job done. Thanks for any advice. Have a good one.

[Carbidetooth]

Some food for thought.

1. That's weird on the vent. Does it look original? I imagine it ties to other vents in attic? That would explain odor.

2.I'd consider removing the soffit over former tub. It's a vestige of yesteryear and the extra height will make your new shower feel roomier. Get some nice disc LEDs and a Panasonic fan with timer and you're golden.

3.Doesn't sound like plastic anywhere would be good. You don't want to create a "moisture sandwich" by having two vapor retarders on either side of anything where conditions would encourage water vapor to condense. Kerdi Board and Kerdi sheet both qualify as vapor retarders so either way you're good. More is not better in this or many other cases.

4. In order to use Schluter foam pan your subfloor has to be dead level to drain properly. And they really don't provide enough slope for my taste which is why I'd reccomend you make your own pan and cover with Kerdi sheet. But I'm kinda fussy that way and want water to exit rapidly as opposed to lazily finding its way to the drain.

5. If you're talking about the 6" wide Kerdi Curb, I'd skip that too. It eats up floor space and water will stand on it. 2" Kerdi Board and fabric will net somewhere around 3" width after Kerdi and tile. Looks better, functions better and can be made with slope to drain.

6. I don't know what Gold Bond drywall is. Presumably some kind of MR (moisture resistant) board which is just not necessary. Some MR boards have a coating that will actually interfere with bonding of Kerdi membrane.

7. Work out how you're going to do those transitions before you do anything else. Many people have started their projects only to find there's no magic way to transition. Tile wrap, finished corner with border tile or tile edge profile. Several ways to do it right but far more ways to do it wrong.

[jadnashua]

I'd also take the boards off of the wall with the sliding door, and replace it with plywood to help stiffen things up. Use some construction adhesive and screws to install it.

I know PEX may be easier, but I'd probably keep the water supplies as copper.

[Carbidetooth]

Good catch, Jim. I'd probably leave the original frame and plate over the top of it and create a return to wall.

Also consider, assuming you use the pocket door, to replace that crappy closet door hardware with something from Johnson while you have access. If you don't use it this is a good opportunity to remove the whole shebang.

[Snets]

Originally Posted by jadnashua

I'd also take the boards off of the wall with the sliding door, and replace it with plywood to help stiffen things up. Use some construction adhesive and screws to install it.

I agree you cannot use that pocket door frame as a shower wall as it stands. However, I would consider framing a new wall abutting that pocket door frame. Those pocket door frames are very flimsy. Also consider whether you'll be mounting glass to that pocket door wall. Framing it out will only cost you 2-3/4" over adding 3/4" plywood and way more stiffness. Plus you could also add a niche to that wall as well.

I have regretted not spending more when I installed two pocket doors in our master bath. Definitely upgrade from box store quality. If I were to do another, it would be THIS ONE with soft open and close and a solid core slab door.

[ss3964spd]

That vent is wack.

Agree with removing the soffit. Did exactly that in the bathroom I'm currently working on - makes a world of difference.

I'm a huge fan of quality hardware, John, I've never seen that pocket door kit you linked to. Looks very nice and solves some challenges in certain situations, but whoa, that price. I installed 2 pocket doors in a previous house and used Johnson kits.

Regardless of kit, it appears to me, from here, that trimming around that door opening might pose a challenge because of where the tile will need to end on that wall. If a "standard" 2 1/4" casing is used, plus a 1/4" reveal, you'd need 2 1/2" for the casing. Adding a sheet of 1/2" ply to tighten up the pocket door framing and then adding a tile substrate on top of that is going to create an issue when it comes time to install the casing. You'd really need to add a 1/2" to the entire wall the door is on. But then, of course, the jambs would need to be re-worked.

How much space do you have, Chris, on that end wall from the inside corner to the edge of the door opening?

[YucaipaCA]

I almost didn't post and was going to just gamble and go for it. So glad I posted and asked for advice. Thanks so much for the quick reply's and advice. Hopefully my reply post is not to long because I have a lot of questions now. I found some really cool gunk stuffed stuck way up in that vent so that's were the smell was coming from. That vent stack was clogged as well so I'm pretty sure the water was having a hard time getting down. Thought I would show you guys the nasty goo that came out of the vent. haha. When Sledge hammering the old cast iron tub apart I knocked a hole in Wifey's closet. Well at least the tub did when a giant piece of cast iron sheered off and crashed through the wall. LOL WHOOPS !!!

On another side note the toilet is having a hard time with the water glugging down when I flush it so I am also going to have to open up the wall and check that vent pipe, and most likely replum that one as well. 1980's house. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Carbidetooth

4. In order to use Schluter foam pan your subfloor has to be dead level to drain properly. And they really don't provide enough slope for my taste which is why I'd reccomend you make your own pan and cover with Kerdi sheet. But I'm kinda fussy that way and want water to exit rapidly as opposed to lazily finding its way to the drain.

Are there any youtube videos to show how to make your own shower pan that you would recommend. This is were I mostly learn how to DIY things? I watched some of the tile coaches videos, Isaic Ostrum and he recomended RSS? Revolutionary Shower Systems for a pan. I may still just go with the Schluter foam pan, 1/4 - 1/2 in per ft is what it needs to be, but if you slope it to much can't you get a slip hazard there? This house will be an Air B and B / Short Term Rental investment in a couple months. Love the advice on the curb as well. Will be making my own if I can figure out how? Can I get a custom foam curb at the local hardware stores or flooring place? Then just add more Kurdy foam to water proof it? Can I use wood and do the same with the foam? Also some really great advice on your numbered list of things to think about I really appreciate how much time you put into this. That was a very nice thing to do. Demo of soft Ceiling is happening today. Already ripped out half the pocket door to reframe a new wall. Thanks

Originally Posted by jadnashua

I'd also take the boards off of the wall with the sliding door, and replace it with plywood to help stiffen things up. Use some construction adhesive and screws to install it.

I know PEX may be easier, but I'd probably keep the water supplies as copper.

Yes I already removed half the pocket door before I even read your reply's. Great advice on the closet pocket doors I had no idea. I will be adding a new pocket door with new hardware and also framing out a new wall to give strength to the sliding glass shower doors. I do prefer copper as well and I have an expensive propress tool, but I hate sweating copper. Looks like I will need to do a bit of sweating where the propress tool will not fit. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Snets

I have regretted not spending more when I installed two pocket doors in our master bath. Definitely upgrade from box store quality. If I were to do another, it would be THIS ONE with soft open and close and a solid core slab door.

This will be an air b and b, so thats going too be to expensive, but will deff find another door with a better sliding track system. I didn't know these were closet doors until after I posted so going to get something a bit better. Thanks.

I will probably have more questions as I get deeper into this thanks so much for all your help everyone.

[YucaipaCA]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Regardless of kit, it appears to me, from here, that trimming around that door opening might pose a challenge because of where the tile will need to end on that wall. If a "standard" 2 1/4" casing is used, plus a 1/4" reveal, you'd need 2 1/2" for the casing. Adding a sheet of 1/2" ply to tighten up the pocket door framing and then adding a tile substrate on top of that is going to create an issue when it comes time to install the casing. You'd really need to add a 1/2" to the entire wall the door is on. But then, of course, the jambs would need to be re-worked.

How much space do you have, Chris, on that end wall from the inside corner to the edge of the door opening?

Sorry ss3964spd I am bit confused by all of this. Its a bit much to take in, but what I think you mean is that the pocket door casing is going to have some trouble fitting if I try and build a wall there. I am just going to pretty much put back on the old part of the pocket door frame wall that was there before, and just put in a new wall on the other side of that with 2x4's. I will have to just put some extra dry wall on the new non load bearing wall where the old frame meets new but this will give my sliding glass shower doors some strength when I install them. I really appreciate your help and insight into this and how much time you took to look at my photos and give me your advice. Thanks.

[YucaipaCA]

Originally Posted by Carbidetooth

7. Work out how you're going to do those transitions before you do anything else. Many people have started their projects only to find there's no magic way to transition. Tile wrap, finished corner with border tile or tile edge profile. Several ways to do it right but far more ways to do it wrong.

Can you give me some examples of this ? Thanks.

[ss3964spd]

Chris, just pointing out that you'll need to have enough space from where the vertical line of the wall tile ends for the door casing. On that end wall with the pocket door, what is the measurement from the inside corner to the edge of the pocket door opening, and how far will the tile extend from the inside corner?

You mention building a 2nd wall, I assume that will be on the shower side of the pocket door. Same issue though, the finished end of that wall needs to end so that you have enough space for the door casing.

[Snets]

Chris, here is an example of one way to handle that pocket door on the shower side. I chose to not have a reveal between the door trim and the tile on this one. Your choice on that.

[Carbidetooth]

Chris, I'm not much for detailed explanations these days, but I'll do it as I feel the need. I do have photos that may be helpful, which I'll post. I think Sal DiBlasi has some videos on YouTube and does it right. There are many posts here about creating a deck mud pan.

I'd do the transition something like Snets shows and wrap the opposite side to look similar. It makes tons of sense to put a niche in that wall as it's away from water flow shower head.

Here's a couple. First is before Kerdi wrap. Second with. I found 10" Kerdi Band to be the perfect for face-top-back and onto floor.

[Carbidetooth]

Here's a couple more so you can see what has become my go-to way of doing curbs.

[YucaipaCA]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Chris, just pointing out that you'll need to have enough space from where the vertical line of the wall tile ends for the door casing. On that end wall with the pocket door, what is the measurement from the inside corner to the edge of the pocket door opening, and how far will the tile extend from the inside corner?

You mention building a 2nd wall, I assume that will be on the shower side of the pocket door. Same issue though, the finished end of that wall needs to end so that you have enough space for the door casing.

I want to understand what you mean but its tough with out photos. I think I know what your talking about, but just wanted to make sure to wrap my head around it so I don't make any mistakes. So I took these measurements to better understand what you mean. I should have around 3 inches of space between old floppy weak slider door wall and the new 2x4 wall. So I will probably wrap around the corner of the wall with tile. There are also some other issues with how to connect the wall to the ceiling and so forth. There's some weird stuff up there to long for explanation. So I have to figure out the puzzle. There's always a puzzle to figure out. I also took a couple other measurements. I have around 37 inches of wall on the slider door side and 34 1\16 on the other wall with all the plumbing in it. Thanks for helping me Dan.

[YucaipaCA]

Originally Posted by Carbidetooth

Chris, I'm not much for detailed explanations these days, but I'll do it as I feel the need. I do have photos that may be helpful, which I'll post. I think Sal DiBlasi has some videos on YouTube and does it right. There are many posts here about creating a deck mud pan.

Wow that looks amazing. I can see what you mean about the curb being much thinner and a lower profile. Watching Sals vids now. Looks great. Thank you for the examples Peter.

Originally Posted by Snets

Chris, here is an example of one way to handle that pocket door on the shower side. I chose to not have a reveal between the door trim and the tile on this one. Your choice on that.

This is what I'm going to try and do on my walls. How did you get the corner on the walls like that just with thin set then embed into the thin set and wipe down with sponge? Great example. Thanks John.