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Unread 02-05-2023, 08:56 AM   #16
HW2023
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Yes, it will be a solid stone (quartz) single piece on the bottom. The niches were premade so we can’t slope those, do we need to slope the stone piece when installing? Thank you!
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Unread 02-05-2023, 09:18 AM   #17
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Yes, the bottom piece of quartz should be sloped, Poly. I assume the same quartz will be used for the top and sides? You'll need to ensure the edge of the quartz is installed at least flush with the face of the installed tile.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 06:43 AM   #18
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Kerdi shower drain

Hi, we fired our tile contractor so I’m finishing the shower myself. When he installed the Kerdi drain flange, there was an air bubble. When I attempted to fix it, I found more air bubbles as thin-set under Kerdi flange collar was not applied evenly creating air pockets. I removed the collar and will replace it with a new one over fresh thin-set.

What is the best way to get the thin-set out without damaging the flange drain? Thank you.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 08:30 AM   #19
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Poly, the waterproof capability of the Kerdi system depends upon being able to bond the clean fleece surface to another clean fleece surface with thinset mortar. Once you've allowed the thinset mortar to cure between two such surfaces and then pulled them apart (if you can), you no longer have that capability. You can certainly bond them together again, but you cannot really create the waterproof joint you need.

You can try that if you want, of course, but my recommendation is that you get a new drain and replace the Kerdi out far enough to get a clean bonding surface. That might mean a good deal of demo and do-over in your case. That's one of the drawbacks to using that type of direct bonded waterproofing membrane for your shower. Good stuff, but very difficult to repair properly at times.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 09:30 AM   #20
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The drain is glued to the PVC pipe below which would be very hard to undo. We have no access from below. If understand you correctly, we need the whole new flange drain?

Just to clarify, this was already re-done once. Originally, the contractor cut the Kerdi pan crooked and had to buy a whole new pan. He cut around the flange drain and inserted the new pan around. Then applied the Kerdi collar over it. So I presumed we can just replace the collar? As the original flange drain already stayed in when he replaced the pan. So you are just saying I won’t be able to attach the Kerdi collar to the flange?

Thank you.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 02:01 PM   #21
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I have some thoughts but I've forwarded your thread to the 'home office' for their input. When I get a response I will replace this message with any suggestions they provide. I just didn't want you to tear the whole thing out if we have some suggestions that may help.

Quick question, what is the floor under this shower?
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Unread 02-07-2023, 03:19 PM   #22
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Thanks, Dan.

You don't fear you'll be fired for failure to at least try to sell material for a whole new shower?
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Unread 02-07-2023, 03:51 PM   #23
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So actually... they came back and said it would be best to replace the drain. Sorry, I tried to make for a softer landing. If you want no warranty and no guarantee of success you can use thinset to fill the voids and add a new collar but definitely flood test when it's complete. To have a warranted installation it all needs to come out.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 08:19 PM   #24
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Hi Dan, thank you. This is extremely frustrating.

I also emailed Schluter customer service on my own and they told me to just put thin-set over it with a patch of Kerdi on top. I’m not sure why 2 conflicting answers?

Is it possible to unglue this Kerdi flange drain without damaging my PVC pipe under it? I have no access from the bottom. I’m extremely disappointed with this whole Schluter system. If I’m forced to take the whole thing out, what are my alternatives for a quality waterproofed shower?

Thank you.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 08:35 PM   #25
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That's why I'm nearly always at least a bit skeptical about phone-call advice from manufacturers' customer service lines, Poly. You don't know whom you're talking with, nor their actual qualifications. Some are better than others, of course.

In this case you have comments in writing with a company rep who has to stand by his advice. Dan is also well known to us (TYW) from his time with other companies in the ceramic tile installation business. I would advise you to accept his advice in this matter.

No, you cannot remove the solvent welded shower drain from your PVC pipe. It is possible to cut the pipe below the fitting using an inside pipe cutter in a drill (see photo below). Will still require some finessing of the pipe and we don't know what kind of subflooring you've installed over, I don't think.

The problems you're experiencing are not the result of using the Schluter System, they are the result of someone having used the products incorrectly. That system will provide you an excellent, long lasting shower if installed correctly, which you can most certainly do yourself.

There are, of course, other direct bonded waterproofing membrane systems out there, none of which would have fared any better at the hands of your previous installer.

There is also the traditional method of creating a receptor, but it, too, requires attention to detail in the waterproofing.

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My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-07-2023, 09:03 PM   #26
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Thank you! The subfloor below is 2 layers of Advantech 3/4” each layer. Does that make a difference?

Thank you!
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Unread 02-07-2023, 10:40 PM   #27
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Just trying to calculate the difficulty of cutting out a section of subflooring to access the drain and then repairing the floor.
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