Advice on master bath project

[Chel10]

Finally making some progress on my project. I am currently onsidering what to use to seal/prime my drywall without paying an arm and a leg. Any suggestions on which primer to look at purchasing? I see that some suggestion that it doesn't matter which primer is used - but I do want to do what I can to ensure the best bond.

Here is an updated photo. Not much completed but it is what it is!

[cx]

Primer in preparation for what, Andrea?

[Chel10]

Sorry for not being clear CX, the wall is located on outside of the shower, on the other side of my ponywall ( see photo below). The whole outer wall will be tiled and butts up to the vanity

[cx]

I wouldn't likely bother priming the part to be tiled, but if you want to do that, I'd recommend a plain ol' PVA primer. You don't need anything at all on the face of the drywall for sure, but folks recommend a primer over the drywall joint compound, if any. I find there is no trouble at all bonding to the drywall compound, but it is gypsum based and there is, at least theoretically, a potential for the creation of a material called ettringite. I have applied Portland cement based mortars over such drywall compound without ever experiencing a problem of any kind. I have likely also applied calcium aluminate mortars (not always clear what's in the newer mortars) over drywall compound and not seen any problems. Doesn't mean it can't happen, means I've never seen it and I don't worry overly about it.

At any rate, prime if you want. Use whatever primer you like. I'd just tile the drywall.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Chel10]

thanks for the quick response!

I have another issue that I'm curious for feedback about. Even though I measured what feels like a million times, sketched, calculated and etc. on my tile layout. I'm now seeing that I'm likely going to end up with sliver tiles at the ceiling * urgh* (about 5/8 -1/4 inch).

Since I already have 1/4 the wall done, I'm hesitant to go back now. I am using 1/8 grout joints with a 3 x 12 ceramic tile with movement in it (see second last photo posted). The solution I'm leaning towards is increasing the joint space (alternating between 1/8 to a 3/16) joint horizontally to in essence remove the sliver tile...however, I'm a bit concerned this change may catch the eye. However I am using a bright white grout and hoping that that with the movement in the tile will trick the eye.

Solution 2 - reduce the tile slightly (cut the tile) to widen the tile sliver from 1/4 inch to closer to 2 inches.

Solution 3 - install a local pencil trim at the ceiling and compensate with the variation between the soffit and ceiling with minor adjustments to the ceiling /tile caulking joint.

Thoughts? Did that all make sense haha.

[Chel10]

ME again! Where do you guys acquire your glass panels? I found that I can order a tempered glass panel through home depot that was made for an aluminum deck railing. Slightly thicker than what the custom glass guys would do, but not by much (1/4 vs 3/8 inch thickness). Wouldn't it basically be the same as what they would provide me with?

[cx]

Are you talking about framed or unframed glass panels, Andrea? I've never installed or contracted for any unframed glass for shower enclosures that was thinner than 3/8ths-inch.

[Chel10]

Sorry, I meant it was thinner than what the custom glass guy had recommended but I did find a thicker one at 7/16. All unframed, they are made just to insert into channels for an aluminum railing. With them being tempered and clear, I can't see why they would be any different then what I would order from a glass guy in town....Asking because there is about a $400 CAD difference in price!

[cx]

Yeah, but them is them little bitty dollars, Andrea.

I've never purchased 7/16ths" glass, but I know the price difference between 3/8ths" and 1/2" tempered glass in my area is dramatic.

I don't know any reason the 3/8ths" tempered glass from Homer would be any different from 3/8ths" form another source in quality, but I'd wanna see the "bug" in the corner of either to be sure it's tempered.

It was previously possible for me to order tempered glass for shower applications without the etched bug on it, but that's no longer the case here. Can't speak to the rules above the 49th parallel.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Chel10]

Fantastic, thanks for the information!

[Chel10]

Hi again my friends,
I am finally nearing the end of my bathroom renovation. I am having a hard time with caulking the inside corners of my shower. I've had to remove my first attempt because, quite frankly, it looked like crap. I have been brainstorming how to overcome this last hurdle so I thought I'd send out some help requests.

My corners in the shower are 2 different colors - white and blue. The blue tile is a matte, textured tile with blue grout and the other wall is a gloss, wavy tile. Originally I was going to proceed with the blue laticrete latisil but found that it was staining my white grout. So I decided to go ahead with 100% white silicone. The problem I'm having is that it fills in some of my blue grout lines but is hell to remove without affecting my new silicone line. Unfortunately, the blue tile is uneven with some lippage due to a smaller grout joint (1/16th vs. 1/8th) which is in part causing this problem.

Tips? Advice? I will attach some photos as well of my corners. The first close up shows where I removed the silicone and can see at the top where it was filling in the grout joints

[Tiger Mountain Tile Inc]

Tape off the tile especially where the grout joints are. Then caulk with silicone but use denatured alcohol to help clean it up.

I use this technique but, in your case, I think tape should be used also.

[Chel10]

Hey all, so in order to pass my electrical had to move some stuff around, which left a hole in my tile. I removed some tile and will be repairing it, but my question is with my open bag of Schluter all set. I have a 3/4 bag full that has been opened about 3 months ago. Do you think I could still use it for repairs? I'd hate to have to get a new bag, but will if it is advisable.

thanks!

[cx]

Depends upon how well it was closed, under what conditions it was stored, and how lucky you feel.

I would want to test it, first. Bond a tile or two to a suitable substrate and wait a week. Remove the tile and see how well it was bonded. If the bond appears suitable to you, use it for your patching.

If you're not willing to wait a week, you can do the test earlier, but it may not tell you as much.

Or you can just bond your patch tiles and hope for the best. Three months is a long time in that application, but it may actually be OK for your purpose. I would not want to use it untested in any critical application.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Chel10]

Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and used it - I had it sealed the best possible way and in my garage. Seems to have set well and now my tile is grouted. Mixed very well and was exactly as it was when I used it last.

Just some finishing touches left and then I'll upload my final results. Super happy with everything - even with all the ups and downs, last minute changes, hiccups. As I said to my husband, this ~10 month project took blood and sweat but no tears haha. I have learned sooo much and know what to do next and what to choose.....so if I'm finished the master bath, it's time for the downstairs bathroom...right?